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My Unique Cold Air Intake system on an I6

9K views 44 replies 20 participants last post by  FAIRMONTAU2 
#1 · (Edited)
Hey guys, Ive just developed this cold air intake system for my EF2 Ghia using bits and pieces from Ford Spares, and some custom made bits. Click the link below to see what I've done and what it looks like. I havent made the direct ram air effect as yet, but that is on its way. I have used full BA 6cyl intake piping, and an Air box (Pod casing) from a BAGT/AU3 T-series. I have found, that by just connecting up my snorkel to this, has made a very large difference in performance and makes the old I6 sound VERY grunty. Ive experimented with my original air box, putting holes in it and feeding ram air pipes to it, K&N panel filter... etc etc and it just doesnt do as much as what this does. I'm working on an EF2 XR8 at the moment and ill post pics of that when its done. I would like to start up a small fitting "business" fitting these systems to Ford I6's and even V8 Windsors when i finish my mate's XR8. Post some replies if you want more info.

Nick

PS. I would post the pictures up on the thread but it kept screwin up


http://www.fordgallery.com/showgallery.php/cat/500/ppuser/9867
 
#6 ·
nice work mate!

How much was the BA intake tubing?
 
#13 · (Edited)
Damn! I had this same idea after looking in the GT's engine bay recently!

Im happy someone tried it and proved it'll work. I'll run the AU XR8 intake snorkel as well, might get a mandrel bent intake to the TB as well. Or i should be able to get away with the EL standard stuff.

Love your work though :)

How much you going to charge? I have a funny feeling Ford will want a lot for the filter box, if your complete jobbie is cheep enough i might just cut my hard work and effort out and buy one complete.
 
#14 ·
sikEA said:
Damn! I had this same idea after looking in the GT's engine bay recently!

Im happy someone tried it and proved it'll work. I'll run the AU XR8 intake snorkel as well, might get a mandrel bent intake to the TB as well. Or i should be able to get away with the EL standard stuff.

Love your work though :)

How much you going to charge? I have a funny feeling Ford will want a lot for the filter box, if your complete jobbie is cheep enough i might just cut my hard work and effort out and buy one complete.
I know someone at Ford in Lilydale and that is where i get all my cheap parts. When it comes to cost, you would be suprised because the K&N cone filter is the most expensive part. PM me your mobile number sikEA and i will work out a price and call you. Whereabouts in Melbourne are you?
 
#15 ·
MustangNicko said:
I know someone at Ford in Lilydale and that is where i get all my cheap parts. When it comes to cost, you would be suprised because the K&N cone filter is the most expensive part. PM me your mobile number sikEA and i will work out a price and call you. Whereabouts in Melbourne are you?
he's from brisbane, but we wont hold that against him :p
 
#19 ·
I dont have a mobile atm, just PM me. I also have a contact at Ford, but dont know how I'd go getting parts cheap (my uncle is a dealer service manager up north)

By Feb i plan to be living in sydney, so you never know. The pod filter thing itself could be posted, I got a full steering wheel in a rather large box from WA to here for around 30 bucks.
 
#21 ·
Beat me too it! I had the same idea in using the ba v8 box n stuff.

Good to see it will fit. Can u let us know how much the filter box was. Last time i checked the piping it was round the $100 mark, is that 'bout right?
 
#23 ·
very neat setup :D
looks very good, will have to keep this in mind!
 
#25 ·
Hey guys,

Interesting thread. Have been playing with this myself. A few things I found.

The BA curve to the throttle body is a nice part, but had a few too many interior bulges. I got a blowtorch on low and carefully heated the plastic, using a large spoon to push them out. Took a while and was a bit messy on the outside, but the inside sanded down nicely. Also used spot putty on the inside to fill all the ridges. Now it's the same diameter all the way, smooth as, and yep it clears the bonnet, just! Also saw on the posted pics you have the oil breather port unconnected???

Get some heat tape, and do the entire underside, airbox, and the snorkel around the radiator hose. It's amazing how much heat this puts out. I dropped the average inlet air over ten degrees by this alone. Cost $30 for the roll of tape. The car remains punchy after idling on a hot day, whereas before it was sluggish off the mark.

I made up a trial airbox to BA curve out of 80mm plumbing pipe, and used a piece of 80mm silicon hose to join them together. Reason is that the latest GEN3 285kw got rid of the ribs on their inlet, which they claimed improved torque. It can't hurt, and once it's perfect I'll get a piece of polished steel to replace it. Again full heat shield, especially on the metal.

I am impressed by the details on the pod box, and it would definately sound better than the standard box. I put the EF airbox lid bellmouth in my AU, and it made a big grunt diff over the standard AU. A mate got a similar length part machined up, that doesn't taper, and reckon it is awesome. If you have this bellmouth, sand it smooth and DON'T cut it out!

OH yeah, do yourself a favour and check that your throttle body is actually lined up with the inlet amnifold. My ser3 AU was a good 2 mill off centre. I polished the TB while I was there with thin 400/800 paper and belled the front edge. All up it has made noticable difference.

Greg.
 
#26 ·
cogdoc said:
Hey guys,

Interesting thread. Have been playing with this myself. A few things I found.

The BA curve to the throttle body is a nice part, but had a few too many interior bulges. I got a blowtorch on low and carefully heated the plastic, using a large spoon to push them out. Took a while and was a bit messy on the outside, but the inside sanded down nicely. Also used spot putty on the inside to fill all the ridges. Now it's the same diameter all the way, smooth as, and yep it clears the bonnet, just! Also saw on the posted pics you have the oil breather port unconnected???

Get some heat tape, and do the entire underside, airbox, and the snorkel around the radiator hose. It's amazing how much heat this puts out. I dropped the average inlet air over ten degrees by this alone. Cost $30 for the roll of tape. The car remains punchy after idling on a hot day, whereas before it was sluggish off the mark.

I made up a trial airbox to BA curve out of 80mm plumbing pipe, and used a piece of 80mm silicon hose to join them together. Reason is that the latest GEN3 285kw got rid of the ribs on their inlet, which they claimed improved torque. It can't hurt, and once it's perfect I'll get a piece of polished steel to replace it. Again full heat shield, especially on the metal.

I am impressed by the details on the pod box, and it would definately sound better than the standard box. I put the EF airbox lid bellmouth in my AU, and it made a big grunt diff over the standard AU. A mate got a similar length part machined up, that doesn't taper, and reckon it is awesome. If you have this bellmouth, sand it smooth and DON'T cut it out!

OH yeah, do yourself a favour and check that your throttle body is actually lined up with the inlet amnifold. My ser3 AU was a good 2 mill off centre. I polished the TB while I was there with thin 400/800 paper and belled the front edge. All up it has made noticable difference.

Greg.

Soon i'll get steel custom piping made up from throtal body to the air box. I can see the ripples as being restrictive as almost 40% of the intake piping is rippled. I have allready covered my snorkel with silver heat protective wrap. It does make a difference, as the car was driven all day and i felt the air box connecter on the snorkel and it was cool. That radiator hose is damn hot! Whats that about the T/B being out of place? Could you explain that a bit more?

Nick
 
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