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Oil level

2K views 15 replies 7 participants last post by  EA1191 
#1 ·
A friend had some small oil leaks and lowers the oil level to control them. The oil dipstick has a line marked 'ADD'. Does this mean that an oil level at or above that line is a good level? Probably save a liter of oil at each change and reduce leakage.
There is a problem starting the car if it has not been used for a week or so.
The first turn of the key seems to engage the starter but there is no response. The second turn is the same but the third turn will turn the engine over but not fast and the engine starts after a few revolutions. Switch off and restart is fast and normal.
The next day will be a normal start.
Could the starter solenoid switch contacts be burnt, but why would that correct itself.
I will run a diagnostic test, but would one of the sensors cause this.
 
#2 ·
Between the high point and low point on a dipstick is usually about a litre of oil, you can run low oil as long as you drive the car nicely, lots of oil is mainly for big revs, and for corners so the oil pump does not run dry and the engine stays lubricated.

Sound slike battery for the starting problem, and only just starts after fuel has been primed and pumped in, next time it has been sitting, jump start it, and if it fires first go, thats the answer - new battery.
 
#3 ·
Thanks for the reply. This was posted before and you suggested the battery, but it is a new battery and a switch off immediatly it starts and and then on restart all is normal. The petrol may have drained from the system but cannot understand why the engine does not turn over if the solenoid closes.
 
#4 ·
It may need a new starter possibly, but they are pain to change unless you get a newer lighter one, as you have to swap it from underneath, anything up to AU will fit the EA, I have an AU starter in my car.

Jason
 
#5 ·
I bet my bottom dollar its the solenoid. Our ole XE has the same problem. Turn the key, you'll get a click, but no starter motor movement. If desperate you can short it across the solinoid face between the solenoid terminal and bolt (going of an XE, should still be similar) using an insulated handel srewdriver. Warning though, use an old one, it'll weld if it gets hot enough.

Donno
 
#7 ·
Personal experience.. if the starter dies.. fit a newer geared starter and you'll have less issues in the future. Replaced the one on the XF i had.. plus the EA and wouldn't look at using the old huge originals.
 
#8 ·
Would appreciate some ideas about my starting problem. Because it will always start, there is not a urgent need to fix something.
Could it be a problem with a new battery? The first turn of the key seems to dim the warning lights but after a couple more turns of the key the engine turns over. And this only happens after standing for a few days. Could any of the sensors be involved. All the fuel may have drained from the line. But there would be no need to control the starter. I did add teflon to the oil and wonder if that could thicken around the rings and make the engine 'stick'. The engine idles better because the teflon seems to have stopped some of the valve stem oil seal leak.
Had a thought about the stem oil seal and wondered if the oil could be stopped from draining onto the valve stem. Perhaps sealing the collets at the top of the springs.
 
#9 ·
EA,

Does it blow blue smoke when first started?

The starting issue could just be bad connections at battery or starter, or just a starter on its way out. Fit one of the geared starters from the newer fords and they require so much less cranking amps.
 
#10 ·
The car has done 98000 and mainly long runs. There is no smoke from the exhaust.
The starter works well after that initial problem which is related to not being used for some time, but as all returns to normal after a minute or so, it does not seem to be the battery, connections or starter. It could still be the solenoid,with perhaps a corroded core. The earth from the battery to engine has been cleaned and tightened.
The starter does not look large and this model had lots of the EB parts fitted. But it does not look easy to remove and replace.
 
#12 ·
Don't mean to hijack the thread but...

Dellboy,

You said you have an AU starter in your EA - did this make any difference to the actual starting of the car? Like quicker starts? Cos mine likes to chug for a while, especially when cold, and sometimes it will even clunk like the starter just doesn't have enough kick. The battery is new and 460CCA so that shouldn't be a problem.

Dan..
 
#14 ·
and sometimes it will even clunk like the starter just doesn't have enough kick. The battery is new and 460CCA so that shouldn't be a problem.

Dan..[/QUOTE]

This sounds similar. Does it clunk and nothing more? And does it start the next try?
 
#16 ·
Had a chat with a guy who knows engines and the problem is most likely to be damage to the teeth of the ring gear. The starter gear teeth hit the ring gear teeth but do not slide into mesh so the solenoid cannot close the starter contacts. I should check the relay contacts and the relay wiring because if the solenoid has more power it may force the gears to mesh. The same effect would be if there was too much friction in the solenoid. I am also going to mark the engine pulley each time the engine stops and perhaps try turning the engine to check if that is the problem and may find the section of the gear damaged. Perhaps if the engine is revved before switch off it will stop at a different position.
This does not explain why it seems to have only occured after standing for some days.
After 13 years the starter may need an overhaul but the starter spins the engine as fast as it ever did.
Would it be possible to reshape the ring gear teeth without removing the engine? This may be a fairly well known problem.
Have a few things to try.
And had a problem finding this post again.
 
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