EBFairmontS6

Hey Guys,

I appologise for the long post...

I own an 1993 EB Fairmont Series2 with 290,000km on it. It's got the stock 4.0L MPFI engine. In about a week I'm taking her off the road for some well deserved repairs.

I'm going to remove the engine and do a full rebuild from top to bottom. Obviously while I have it out I want to spice it up a bit. I'm thinking of the basic mods, Cam and exhaust. In addition I would like to replace clutch fan with EL Thermo's and also fit the XH snorkel. Any other suggestions on what I should do while I have the engine out.

Looking through the threads here I found most people here suggest many different Cams as being the best

- Some people suggest the 4.0L Cam is fine
- Some people suggest a regrind of the 4.0L Cam
- Some people suggest a Mock Cam
- And others suggest the Crow Cam

I'd like to hear peoples thoughts about these different cams and what they paid for them.

Now exhausts, in some of the modded cars I've been in I've found the exhaust notes to be really annoying, given the continuous dull drone vibrating around in the car. I would like to fit an exhaust that is fairly quiet whilst cruising but gives a nice exhaust note when you give it some stick. (ie. Not like the crappy exhaust notes you get outta hotted up dunnydores)

What types of Header and Exhausts combinations do people have and what do you guys think of the noise?

Also, Has anyone here done anything to reduce cabin noise in thier cars? Whilst I have the engine out I'm removing the Dash to fix the heater coil. So it would be a good time to attach some more sound deadening materials to the firewall etc. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Cheers,

Jas.

Troutman

Regarding the sound deadening, these threads will help:

http://discussions.fordforums.com/sh...threadid=22675

http://discussions.fordforums.com/sh...threadid=17744

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Jack Travis, E-Series Acting President

1989 Ford Fairmont Ghia turbo/GL replica (underway)
1994 Eunos 800M
1990 Ford Laser S

Kieron

Not a direct answer, but if I were in you shoes, I would be looking at dropping a low K EL or possibly even an AU 4.0 in, you get the extra grunt and its a little smoother. Find a wreck and transfer all the under bonet bits in, thermos etc

Kieron

EBFairmontS6

Hey Kieron,

I did consider doing this at one stage, however I had a few reservations. ie. ECU's, Intake setup? Or would I just use the motor with the EB intake etc. etc. ?

Have seen a complete swap ECU, EL/AU intake done minus a lot of hassle?

Thanks,

Jas.

Kieron

I'd have a shot at dropping the whole lot in, getting the correct ECU and wiring loom, only problem I can think of is the Smartlock and posibly the autotrans wiring which should be overcome using the wiring from the EEC V anyway.

I reckon its well worth looking into Jase.


Kieron

Thanatos

Because it's an EB2, you shouldn't have any problems with the smartlock or auto trans. (I think....)



As for your original question:
I'm using a crow stage 2 cam in my EA and it is ten times better than the 4.0L cam, so forget about that right now. I haven't had any experience with the Mock cam, but have heard good things about it, also. And as for regrinds, it depends on the specs of the individual regrind....


With exhausts, be prepared for an onslaught of people telling you to get 2.5 inch. I'm running a 2.25" on mine and it sounds awesome. When coupled with lukey extractors, it provides an EXCELLENT low down torque increase, as well as allowing it to breath much easier at high revs. It's not too loud when cruising (but has a REALLY nice burble sound to it), but once it gets above 2,500 rpm it sounds like the world is coming to an end....


hope this helps,
Dave

P.S. It's not the XH snorkel, it's the XG snorkel that you need. XH is designed to suit the EF/EL airbox...

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Bass Crazy

You can run the EF block & head using the EA MPI Manifold, injectors ECU etc.

I'm not entirely sure, however, the engine mounts should be a straight bolt up as well.

This would work out pretty cheaply compared to doing a complete rebuild of an EA donk, and getting it balanced nicely.

As for the engine work. If you don't use an EF/L engine, you should seriously concider using an EF/l head, or better still, an XR head. This will give you a better building block as the valves are bigger, as well as the port diameter.

If you use the standard EA head, it will need quite a few hours at the die grinding bench to get her flowing nicely, which in the end, costs you more $$$.

The zorst setup in my car is pretty quiet compared to others I hear driving around.
On idel, she gives out a low burble. While cruising, its just noticable, minimal drone, but at full stick, she make a bit of noise, nothing too bad.
I use Motivator 6>3>2>1 extractors with a 3" pipe into the CAT, then 2.5" mandrel bent zorst (Redback) with a high flow muff and one sports resinator in the rear.


Since your in Melb, you might be better off having a chat to Jim Mock.

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CAUTION: Slippery When BOOSTING!

donuts2001

I agree with Bass Crazy to an extent... you need to get a better head on the car if you want some more guts, and there is not much point changing the block because they are all virtually identical, in fact I'd say they'd still be using the EA block just with a bit longer stroke.

If I was you I wouldn't stuff around with searching for a XR head or a newer model head, they aren't hugely different I don't think, and your money will be much better spent getting the head you have now ported and worked on by a engine rebuilder centre. No XR6 head will ever give you the performance that a reworked head has simply for the fact XR6 heads are mass produced, whereas getting your head ported is done manually by a person who can make it much much better then a metal casting machine.

I don't know if the XR6 head has bigger valves, but again you can get the motor rebuilders to put massive valves in if you want, but then you'll have to start worrying about piston clearances and things like that.

Remember if your going to do any performance mods when you take your engine out, don't do things that you could have done with the motor in... because you can do that later easily. I'd say do the porting and work on the head and change piston rings and stuff like that now, and think about things like cam upgrades and exhausts later on. Otherwise you'll be kicking yourself later on I can guarantee it.

Kieron

The EF head is a much better base point, the biggest advantage is the compression ratio, up from something like 8.8:1 to 9.3:1, that alone will give you a good few extra neds. Bangs for buck i'd be going EF head over porting the older job.
EF XR6 has slightly bigger exhaust valves from memory, but its not worth sourcing one of those, go a std EF head + better cam.

4.0 EB2 is esseetially the same block as the EF 4.0, but as Jas's donk has 290,000k's, its due for a freshen up anyway hence my suggestion of going EF/L completely - should be able to find a decent donk for maybe a grand or so, rebuilding the EB donk to std spec will cost more than that (check out -
http://www.allpanelsandparts.com.au/...l#ef%20to%20el
for an eg of C/O prices)
+ headwork and you still may only end up with around 157kw's .

Kieron

Bass Crazy

I'm pretty sure about this, however, there is a chance I might be wrong.
Ok, the EA has a standard comp of 8.8:1 (EF is around 9.5:1)
However, the increased compression is achieved by the bottom end, rather the the EF cylinder head. By installing the EF head onto an EA block, the compression will most likely be lower then a standard EA, when using an EA gasket, due to the larger chamber volume.

To overcome this, you should use a thinner head gasket (Similar to AU) and have a few thou decked off the head... this should bump up the comp again nicely.

ciao

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CAUTION: Slippery When BOOSTING!