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Short-Term Retirement of XR6

2K views 15 replies 9 participants last post by  tdog 
#1 ·
I'm about to head off an a 15 month around th world trip.

But, I'm having to leave 2 cars behind. The XC is fine, its only running a 250, it'll be pulled out when I get back anyway.

It's the XR6 (EF) that I'm a little concerned about. Over the last couple of weeks it has developed a head gasket leah (Doh!) both internal and external.
I realise water sitting in the cylinder for a period of time will spell D-I-S-A-S-T-E-R for the engine when I eventually try to fire it up again.

I was told by someone to drain the current oil. The Just about fill it (15L) with "Redex", even putting some in each cylinder.

Should I just drain the water and run the engine a bit ( < 10 seconds ) to ensure there is no water in any cylinders then simply cancel the rego and let it sit?

Or is there some decent preparation I should be taking? I've only ever had to do this with the XC, and I knew it would fire up first time when I got back.

Thanks Guys, I know everyone will include their 2 cents on this one!

Casey.
 
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#2 ·
my personal experience with redex is not a good one. as far as im concerned if your gonna put redex in it then you may as well fill the engine with water and leave it sit. redex is shit and will make your engine worse than what it is. fix the gasket if anything. itll save you heaps in the end. if your going for 15 months then get someone to start your car at least once a month.
 
#3 ·
I agree.. fix the head and just get it started once in a while.

If its not started, the seals will dry up and die, the rings will stick to the bores.. tons of trouble in the long run.

Tho.. when i parked the escort i was starting it every few weeks for months.. then ran out of time to do it and it sat for nearly 9 months. Bit of aero spray down carby, gave it a wind over for 30secs to pump petrol up and the thing fired. Wouldn't idle for 5mins but could spin the wheels for 20meters down the road :)

Do the safe thing and fix and get someone to start it.
 
#4 ·
take the plugs out, and fill the cylinders with oil.
When you get back, take the head off and get it done / new gasket, and just soak up any oil still in the bores while its off -this will stop the bores rusting due to the water.
Also change the engine oil / filter / coolant at the same time.
Dont leave it sit without water, make sure its topped up with water and coolant.
Also you might want to pour a bottle of metho in the fuel tank when you get back to get rid of any water in the fuel.
 
#5 ·
Ok, so maybe getting it fixed is the better option.
how much is a set of gaskets noadays? I remeber a set for the 250 costing around $140. Is this about right for the EF? Are there differences between the XR's and Taxi's?

Case
 
#6 ·
Fix the gasket. Its not that hard. I did it myself to the EL xr6 a couple of days ago and it only cost me $350. But i was lucky the head was still in good shape. The I6's gasket kit goes for around 120-150, then head crack testing for me was about a $100. New head bolts (which you MUST get, because they stretch when they are in the head) cost me $60, then fixing the problem was about $50 bucks. Saved myself $700 in labor.

Nick
 
#7 ·
Fit the gasket then put a tbl sppon of oil in each cylinder and crank over without the sparkplugs in to fully lubricate cylinder. drain fuel as well cheers.
 
#8 ·
Let me borrow it while your away i'll make sure it get's a good run!!
Even Better Lend it to fordforums and we can all give it a good run!!!!
 
#9 ·
Alright, I've made the decision... It's going to get fixed.

I've done a head on the old 250 but I reckon it's going to be a whole world harder with OHC. Is there anything I should look out for when pulling the bastard off?

Case
 
#11 ·
Alright. Today was spent scratching heads.
I've taken intake, exhaust off.
Rocker cover's off and all the other crap attached to it.

1. Now I've just got to take the Cam-gear off, let that sit nicely below.
2. Take the Power Steer pump off (looks like the head isn't going anywhere fast with that still attached.
3. Undo all the head bolts
4. Hope that it isn't warped and come off in a nice composed manner.

Anything I've missed?

Oh, and 9psi EB, why do you think it would have to be welded?
Fairly big assumption.
Case
 
#13 ·
Case,

With E-series heads, it is very common for the rear water jacket which is just behind the firing ring on no 6 cyl to corrode, therefore allowing water to bypass into no 6 cylinder.
What gets done is the water jacket gets welded up, some *good* places will actually weld it right up and redrill a hole into the weld, which gives more surface area for the gasket to seal around no.6. - Normally there is only around 5mm between the water jacket and firing ring, and it doesnt take that long for the corrosion to chew it out.
This is usually why E-series require gaskets at just over 100,000kms.

Even if it isnt corroded i suggest you get the head faced, as they also warp slightly between each pair of bolts from front to back.

Also, buy a can of hylomar, and use a genuine gasket, and give it a good coat of hylomar to help seal it. Use only the genuine motorcraft coolant and distilled water when its all ready to go.
 
#14 ·
The engine in my Mum's car now sat for about 2.5 years with no special preperations when it was left sitting in a back yard under the hood of an un-registered EA wagon. Went to go check it out and all I took was a battery. Put it in, filled the coolant tank and fired it over. Still going strong 3000kms later in Mum's car!

Sundeep
 
#15 ·
9psi EB said:
Case,

With E-series heads, it is very common for the rear water jacket which is just behind the firing ring on no 6 cyl to corrode, therefore allowing water to bypass into no 6 cylinder.
What gets done is the water jacket gets welded up, some *good* places will actually weld it right up and redrill a hole into the weld, which gives more surface area for the gasket to seal around no.6. - Normally there is only around 5mm between the water jacket and firing ring, and it doesnt take that long for the corrosion to chew it out.
This is usually why E-series require gaskets at just over 100,000kms.

Even if it isnt corroded i suggest you get the head faced, as they also warp slightly between each pair of bolts from front to back.

Also, buy a can of hylomar, and use a genuine gasket, and give it a good coat of hylomar to help seal it. Use only the genuine motorcraft coolant and distilled water when its all ready to go.

Good Points. I'll have to have a good old look before sending it off to get crack tested. Is there anything I should get done with the bug shiny bit off the engine? Shave a mm or 2 off it? Maybe put some really stiff valve springs to help revving? Or maybe I could save the cash for the holiday.

I'm hoping the head hasn't warped itself to buggary... It did get quite hot in January... Crappy ford radiators, splitting down the side.
 
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