Anyone know the recomended changing intervals for the timing chain on an EF? Mines done 140K and has not been changed.
What are the symtoms to look out for that would indecate that the chain is on the way out?
My car, when started cold does make a loud clicking noise for the first 5 secs then it goes away. Is this just because the oil hasn't circulated around the engine yet? It only gets driven on weekends, so sometimes when I start it, it has just been sitting for 4-5 days.
Also, not really engine tech, but since I'm here, I get pretty bad brake shudder. The frount discs are less than 1 year old (more like 8 months) and the pads are only 3-4 months old. I don't rack up that many k's on the thing, less than 10K a year.
I'm getting the discs machined as I'm writting this. Is there anything else I should look out for, or is this pretty standard?
clicking noise is lifters,I wouldn't worry unless it gets worse.
Brake shudder is warped discs,machining will fix for a little while but it will come back,proberly caused by not bedding in the new rotors.
Timing chain,leave it alone unless it is rattleing,no reason to change a timing chain till it starts stuffing up,you will have plenty of warning.
make sure u have good quality brake pads. bendix should do the job. i agree with taximan, the clicking sounds like lifters and leave the timing chain alone. back to the old cliche - if it aint broke, dont fix it. on falcons they generally last the life of the engine.
Yep, clicking sounds like lifters :)
Try putting in an oil with a higher hot viscosity, that should fix the clicking although if it's just the first 5 sec, then that's while the engine's pumping oil up and I wouldn't worry.
Usually when the chain goes you can hear it rattle, also to test it; if you can lift it 4mm off the sprocket with the tensioner engaged, its cactus....
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The clicking is only noticable for the first 5 secs. But, when driving through an allyway with the engine sound reflecting of the walls, I can here a faint clicking sound. I currently run Mobil 1 in the engine.
I have read some other threads and they also point to the lifters. Not sure if I plan to do anything about it unless I get a cam / valves / springs package.
Unfortunately I am fairly mechanically challenged and would have to fork out for someone else to do it for me, so the bank balence dictates that I will just have to get by with the stock 4ltr and the exhaust I had fitted (which I did because the stock one burnt out) that made hardly any diff to the power of the car at all (sigh).
One the up side, the problem with the brakes appears to have gone after I had the discs machined.
mobil one might be a bit too light for your car - esp as you dont drive it much, it will all be draining back to the sump during the week,a nd the lifters bleeding down etc - try castrol GTX III, its 15/40 from memory, i use it in my car, IMHO its good stuff.
you can reduce the chances of getting a brake shudder by letting the brakes warm up and cool down before and after you thrash the car - though it seems you drive sedately anyway - when stopping at lights try stopping a about 1.5m further back than you usually would from the car in front, and creep forewards about 15cm every 30 seconds, and while you are at the lights use as little pressure on the brakes as you possibly can.
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Go for a heavier weight oil, Mobil 1 will be too light for your engine and mileage. You are far better off using a mineral oil and changing oil and filter every 5,000k's (or 6 months) than a thin synthetic like M1, expecially now summer is round the corner. 15/40, as Rollin said, is a good choice, just keep your eye on the oil pressure gauge.
Just remember these light weight oils are only recommended by the engine manufacturers because they will give slightly better fuel economy (EPA requirements), and are not necessarilly the best oil for engine longevity.
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