has anyone done any serious tune-dvelopment with an AU inlet manifold to increase torque?
Is the diaphragm controlling long runner / short runner (power) available in other vacume settings? ; Is the same diaphragm activated by the ECU or is it purely vacume??
The current dyno shows 255 hp (190kw) at wheels, but the torque curve is to much of a split... The car AU II races in dirt. Engine is pretty basic with all the work done in the head.
Presently the thing becomes a dog under 5000 rpm with any load.
what the hell has been done to this beast... full specs please!!! 190rwkw on a basic engine with only head work presumably running stock ecu. WHAT THE.. would like to know what injectors/fuel system you r running...
To my knowledge most factory inlets ARE already tuned for max torque, and of course max quiet. This makes them drivable for grandad. The Broad Band is already over 100% efficient, so it's pretty much torque city. Sounds to me like your cam grind is limiting you, but at 190kw's I figure you have to comprimise somewhere. I'd personally sacrafice a bit of top end outright power, for a more drivable ( ie tourqey ) grind.
The latest 295kw holden has gone to a smooth inlet tract, which they say increases torque, so look at loosing the rubber accordian style elbows. Keep the inlet as cool as possible, I jacked mine up away from the broad band manifold so it just rubs on the bonet underlay. I also put heat proof tape on the underside. One big thing I noticed for grunt was to put an EF bellmouth from the airbox lid into the AU, noticable grunt increase. Mkae sure you sand out all the edges in the whole inlet, especially the EF bell. A mate of mine had one of these spun up out of alloy to the same length, but it doesn't taper down inside the lid - reckons it worked great too. I'm happy with the EF bolt in myself. Got an XR reg too, bit more fuel pressure for future mods, runs rich, but mid range grunt improved straight away. Feel the computer has adapted now though. E-mail me with your address and I'll post pics for ideas. I run the BA inlet, no noticable difference, but may flow more air for your application.
ebs_4... It is a race car so the bottom end is stock... stock as far as components go that is!
the only real machine work done was to clean the bore to have the clearances correct, barrel grind the pistons, machine the exhaust valve relief into the piston and then cermic coat them.
ECU is MOTEC. Injectors are as used on SVO mustang - bosch number...($1100.00 a set)
Fuel is ultimate 98 to stop the ping, cam is a crow... but I think we will moving away from this to an Tighe.. maybe!
Most are stuck with an EF valve train...were NOT!.. we run the AU valves.
Thanks Greg.... I will shoot you an email and scan in a shot of the AU in flight.
supratub- I am very keen on modifying my AU naturally, and getting some serious power, something very few people have done!
do you have any dyno results? pics? any more sort of info you can post? I dont want to turn mine into a race car, just some serious street ass kicker lol
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As to the EF bellmouth - I cut mine just inside the airbox to remove the taper. Seems to have worked OK and it's certainly in no danger of falling out.
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Proud TQE Operator and President of SEFAG - the Society for the Elimination of Ford Automatic Gearboxes
Pacemaker headers + 2.5" exhaust
EF Fairmont interior
MP3 player
Lowered King springs
5 speed manual
EF motor
Hmm, that was very interesting. Made me want to finally get my arse into gear with my planned cold air intake :)
After reading what they said about the bellmouth pulling air from the centre of the filter, I might make up a replacement for the one I cut - but 80mm all the way down!
__________________
Proud TQE Operator and President of SEFAG - the Society for the Elimination of Ford Automatic Gearboxes
Pacemaker headers + 2.5" exhaust
EF Fairmont interior
MP3 player
Lowered King springs
5 speed manual
EF motor
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