Wade Stage Two Cam Problems- Stalling! - Page 5 - Ford Forums

INJECTED250 · 11-26-2004, 15:59

it could of been holding the valves open?

shano6 · 11-26-2004, 16:09

Yes when giving a car a rev, if the valve springs are too weak, a lifter is sticking, or the lifters(hydraulic) have too much initial pressure on them the valve can take too long to close, causing excess fuel, lower compression pressures, etc.

useless · 11-26-2004, 17:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by shano6

Yes when giving a car a rev, if the valve springs are too weak, a lifter is sticking, or the lifters(hydraulic) have too much initial pressure on them the valve can take too long to close, causing excess fuel, lower compression pressures, etc.

I think after doing about 4 cam installs in my car that the fundamental error is....the wrong shim thickness.So guys should measure the base circle of the existing cam and performance cam and then measure the thickness of the shims to double check the cam.Then shim accordingly.I was told 2 shims then worked out 3 shims were needed.
The other problem is dialling in the cam.
And lastly I dont believe in resetting the computer.This is when things went wrong for me in idle.

BOSXR8 · 11-28-2004, 17:47

sorry guys i havent had internet acces for a while.
hiyenna- i realise there is nothing wrong with the actual cam which is why i didnt hunt you down :-P there is some weird problem happening and hopefulyl i can sort it out. and the lifters are a differrent size to my ones. the lifter and the shim on the efs are apparently both smaller in diameter.
Chris- sorry like i said i havent had internet access and i just sent Keith an email then hopfully he can help me out.

so its a chance its the map sensor?? i think it is something maybe along the lines of a sensor issue maybe... i really want to put this cam back in so i hope we can sort these problems out.

nEb · 01-02-2005, 02:32

Did you end up sorting out what the problem was? Was it a sensor? My car is stalling a fair bit after putting in a 1004 112 cam (replaced the 1004 114 cam that was in there). i didn't change any of the cam timing or anything. or reset the computer so i would think it wouldn't go too bad.

Rollin · 01-04-2005, 04:53

Quote:

You need to drive your car more, and harder.

Everybody should drive their car more, and harder!

nEb - that wagon looks sweet as man! do you have any more pics of it? PM them to me if you like.

back to topic -check the bolts that hold the intake manifold on for tightness, check that there are no air leaks between the throttle body and the head, get the correct size and thickness shims and put them in with the cam. advance the timing up to around 14-18 degrees advance and run straight BP ultimate. initially put about an extra half turn inwards on the throttle screw and see how it goes - DONT reset the computer.

put the normal plugs back in.

when you first start it let it idle for a few mins (till it gets hot) then turn it off. start it a little while later (after you check for leaks or whatever) and let it idle, then turn the a/c on for a few mins, then go for a drive with the ac off.

about 15 mins into the drive let it idle for a little while and then turn the a/c on, then start driving. just drive it normally, when you stop at lights you may have to hold your foot gently on the throttle, try very very slowly taking your foot off, so the car falls slowly to idle, not dropping quickly.

if that doesnt fix it then seek professional help!

i didnt reset the computer when i put my cam in and the car ran ok straight after, but got better over about 1000km, then with a little adjustment of fuel pressure, timing and cam timing it did a 14.5 :s6: that cam is apparently a little smaller than the wade 1004@112. one day i left my lights on and flattened the batttery - man, it was an absolute PIG to drive for at least 2 weeks! i couldnt believe how crap it was, it stalled all the time, barely ran when cold and had crap driveability when it was hot. dont give up, they need time!

nEb · 01-04-2005, 05:58

well i ended up resetting the computer in my car, i've also cleaned out the ISC with carby cleaner and i advanced the ignition timing a bit (wouldn't have a clue how you know how many degrees it is advanced though?). it hasn't been stalling now but the idle still gets really rough.. it idles up and down between 600 and 1000.. and then after idling for a while.. it sometimes get really lumpy and idles up and down between 200 and 1200 all over the place reving up and down slowly and sounds like its about to stall every now and then. but if i just give it a rev then its ok.

by the way i've doing alot of runs with a g-tech lately... i get between 8 and 9 seconds 0-100 (varies) and tend to only get around 16.4second quarter mile.. but have done a few 16.2s and 16.1s... but cant even seem to get into the 15s. i think my car is alot quicker then it used to be and feels fairly quick... but its still slow. pretty embarrassing when your brothers stock eb auto sedan catches up to you at around 120kmph!

nEb · 01-04-2005, 06:02

oh and heres a few pics rollin:

http://users.tpg.com.au/adsleq58/ebforsale/hyper6.JPG
http://users.tpg.com.au/adsleq58/ebforsale/side.jpg
http://users.tpg.com.au/adsleq58/ebforsale/sideopen.jpg

i need to take some more soon...

F0rdman · 01-04-2005, 06:59

Ok....now you've all almost scared me out of putting a 1521a Wade cam into my car...a question. Could most of these problems be avoided with a adj. cam gear and a bit of tuning on a dyno? I dont really want to have to deal with this cutting out and horrible idle shit while I'm trying to enjoy driving in my more powerful car.

nEb · 01-04-2005, 16:27

my car has adjustable cam gear.. but i have a feeling maybe it was never dialed in quite right. and its never been dyno tuned. i'm sure a dyno tune would help alot and if you still have problems after that you could get a chip or aftermarket ecu to run it.

i'm putting a new engine setup together and i'll be running a 1521a cam.. so hopefully it runs alright.