Okay, so I'm new around here I'm not normally a Ford man, and I don't see that changing any time soon (oh dear, NO help for me now hey!)
Anyway, mate of mine has bought a '90 XF ute, with a 250(duh...) and 3 speed column manual. Rotten thing it is! Anyway, he's found an AU XR6 engine and 5 speed he wants me to put in there, so I did a bit of a search, and was looking for confirmation of a few points:
I'll need XG engine mounts, but can I use the 3 speed tailshaft and gearbox crossmember? Also what about the horrible old cable clutch, how well does that work in with the T5? Presumably a hole will have to be bored in the floor for the gearstick somewhere, anything I need to know here? I guess I could use XG manual console etc.?
Engine swaps etc. aren't a problem for me, just I normally never touch Ford stuff, so I figured it wouldn't hurt to ask a few questions from those that might!
Hi mate. I presume that before you dig up some engine mounts and drill the hole in the floor for the gearstick that you have solved a few important other issues. Have you, for instance, acquired a complete AU ECU, ignition and smartlock system, engine compartment and dashboard wiring looms, assorted engine sensors, suitable exhaust and so on. It's a huge leap from an X series to an A series Falcon, they are poles apart technically. I suggest that you ought to rethink the idea and just stick with a compatible motor, it would be a mighty challenge to change as you've suggested.
Yes, I was aware of these particular, er, minor(!) issues. However, I have got a couple of options:
1. All of the stuff from the donor car is available, and I do have an electronics background, as well as having done this kind of thing before (just not with a Ford!)
2. The guy who owns it likely has slightly bigger plans for this project than the factory gear will support anyway!
Just want to be sure of the physical side of things e.g. mounts, sump, tailshaft, clutch cable, etc.
The rear gearbox mounts will have to be modified slightly. The AU I6 and T5 combo is about 70mm longer then the old 250 Xflow combo.
Tail shaft will need to be changed. My suggestion would be to use an EB/D wagon tail shaft and diff combo then using XG handbrake cable.
As for the cross member I cannot say for sure as I’ve only done an EL motor conversion (runs a different sump to AU)
The front cross member / lower radiator support will need to be cut down to allow for the harmonic balancer and alternator on the new motor.
In regard to the electrics be weary that post series one AU’s had smart SHIELD I havent seen much info around on it as oppose to smart lock. Also, if using an XR6 motor you should run the XR6 ECU.
I would be very interested to know haw you go with cross member and the AU sump as I’m considering the upgrade my self in the future????
All good stuff! Yeah, I guess using the wagon bits does seem like a good idea. That way you'd at least get the rear disc brake setup (presumably with those HORRIBLE EB rear calipers like the sedan?) Would the XG and EB wagon handbrake cable be different?
Also, does anybody know about clutch cables?
I believe that the E series clutch cable should go straight in as should the pedal box, but not sure about AU items.
You can also use an EF - AU accelerator cable and pedal which will bolt straight in being a post 87 XF.
The hand brake cables are different from E series and XG you need an XG one.
The other advantage in changing the rear diff/axel assembly is you also then get the appropriate diff ratios for your new engine and transmission combination.
Any news on how the AU sump goes with the XF cross member??
Thanks for the info again. I was looking into using an E wagon diff so that I'd have the 4 pinion diff, and something (slightly) better than 2.77 or 2.92 gears. Would, say, an EB wagon have 3.08, or maybe someting like 3.36?
Only thing I can say about the AU sump is that it's a front sump... I won't know anything about how well it fits until I try it, I suppose!
I was considering the same mod with my XF ute, did some sums, and found it heaps cheaper to buy an XH. Another major consideration is the steering, the XF steering box is utter crap with a very limited turning circle when compared to the XH rack.
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The spline on the tail shaft is different post early EA. EB wagons have 3.08 and 3.27 diff ratios. The EB XR6 had 3.45 LSD. Defiantly go the 3.27 and a minimum.
Another thing handy to know before you start is. The sump will foul on the front sway bar. Best bet is to remove it before you try to drop the motor in. with some minor alterations to the sway bar mounts it can be re-fitted later. Best thing to use os XE mounts/brackets. (You’ll see why after taking a closer look at both items) Overall the bar needs to be lowered about 25mm.
I overcame the f#*^ing s#*t stering box problem by getting an engineer to fit an EL steering rack fitted with VN commodore rack ends. Works an absolute teat. Cost about $280 for a recoed rack fitted with new VN ends and about $400 for the engineer to fit and certify. Then I ran a EL steering column……….
But none or this is necessary for the AU conversion.
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