I am going to go with the band wagon and convert my clapped out 302 with a fresh 351. I was just wondering what i will need for the conversion internally. I know i will need a new inlet manifold (try and pick one up second hand), A 650DP or the likes, New pistons, bigger cam, better valve springs, (using 302 rods), hardened valve seats and retainers (for PULP). I may have missed a few things out but I am just going to get a ball park figure so that i can save up for all the goodies. After i get a complete list, i will jump on VPW and check out some prices :)
FOR SALE: 1980 XD, Recently rebuilt 9" disc diff, with 3.25 gears, toploader with hurst shifter kit, 302C, DBA slotted and cross driled rotors, Fairmont interior with modified centre console, jellybean mags, reasonably good condition, driveline will handle 400+rwhp PM FOR PICS asking $3500
Just before we dicide, just a few questions.
Are you going solid or hydraulic and how big. Depending on how big you will need heads machined for either double springs, rollers and special valve stem seals with the good springs. You can either do all the following, or just keep to a fairly small hydraulic cam, and limit revs to about 5000-5500. Tell us exactly what you have in mind for this new 351?
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10.70 @ 125.00 on the black fun top
408 Cube Cleveland.
Edelbrock performer and a 650DP carb with something starting @ 2500rpm finishing about 5800-6000rpm would be the go. 3.5 or 3.7 gears and a 2500rpm histall if auto. Otherwise sounds good.
well, i want to keep it hydraulic cause i dont want to have to set valve lash every so often. I want a good reliable 300hp fly wheel. With a fairl stout 351 it should be very easy to accomplish. I want the cam to big fairly big but not outrageous. I want a nice lumpy idle. Shift point i want to be around 5500 with i dont think is a big ask. So this is what the list looks like at the moment. I will jump on VPW once i get confirmation that it is all i will need for the conversion.
(oh, and by the way, it will be a reliable but budget setup.. hopefully)
- 351 Crank (should i buy new or second hand? remember, cheap in mind)
- 650 DP
- (dont know which intake to choose, open to suggestions)
- ACL or the likes pistons (cheap)
- Crow cam (Part #2113675 - IN.33/73 - EX.78/35) (too big? i dont know)
- Standard 302 rods (shotpeened)
- New valve springs (will i need to upgrade my valves?)
FOR SALE: 1980 XD, Recently rebuilt 9" disc diff, with 3.25 gears, toploader with hurst shifter kit, 302C, DBA slotted and cross driled rotors, Fairmont interior with modified centre console, jellybean mags, reasonably good condition, driveline will handle 400+rwhp PM FOR PICS asking $3500
that camshaft would need about a 3000rpm convertor and 3.7 for strip. You could get away with a 2500 and 3.5's but it wouldn't pack as much punch as it should have. That cam should also be good for 350+ hp. A slightly smaller Crane makes 400hp with the right tuning.
FOR SALE: 1980 XD, Recently rebuilt 9" disc diff, with 3.25 gears, toploader with hurst shifter kit, 302C, DBA slotted and cross driled rotors, Fairmont interior with modified centre console, jellybean mags, reasonably good condition, driveline will handle 400+rwhp PM FOR PICS asking $3500
i have a toploader and 3.25's, sorry i didnt mention that, so which cam would make 400hp? With a good tune of course
I appologise. The Crane cams slightly larger in lift and a tad more duration. It's the largest hyd in the cam dynamics range part no C234-52. That will do 400hp with 2V heads. My mates 351 did it. The next cam down in the cam dynamics range seems to suit your needs more. It starts @ 2200 and winds up @ 5400rpm. Has 224 in and 234 exh with 536 thou lift on the inlet and 562 lift on the exhaust. Better for your manual and diff ratio. Although the choice is really yours when it comes down to it. XBWGN runs that in his 302 powered coupe with almost no head work. He tidied the heads himself and put slightly heavier springs otherwise stock heads breathing through manifolds not extractors. It made 163rwkw. So you'd expect about 180-200rwkw from a 351.
200kw at the tread for a 351 with head work, bigger cam and the rest? isnt that a tad conservative? I thought a tough 351 would get around 250rwkw? But then again, im not sure cause i havnt takin that route just yet...?
FOR SALE: 1980 XD, Recently rebuilt 9" disc diff, with 3.25 gears, toploader with hurst shifter kit, 302C, DBA slotted and cross driled rotors, Fairmont interior with modified centre console, jellybean mags, reasonably good condition, driveline will handle 400+rwhp PM FOR PICS asking $3500
well, i want to keep it hydraulic cause i dont want to have to set valve lash every so often. I want a good reliable 300hp fly wheel. With a fairl stout 351 it should be very easy to accomplish. I want the cam to big fairly big but not outrageous. I want a nice lumpy idle. Shift point i want to be around 5500 with i dont think is a big ask. So this is what the list looks like at the moment. I will jump on VPW once i get confirmation that it is all i will need for the conversion.
(oh, and by the way, it will be a reliable but budget setup.. hopefully)
- 351 Crank (should i buy new or second hand? remember, cheap in mind)
- 650 DP
- (dont know which intake to choose, open to suggestions)
- ACL or the likes pistons (cheap)
- Crow cam (Part #2113675 - IN.33/73 - EX.78/35) (too big? i dont know)
- Standard 302 rods (shotpeened)
- New valve springs (will i need to upgrade my valves?)
So hows that sound? Did i miss anything out??
You could make an easy 300 with an almost stock engine,maybe a bit of headwork ,some carb and a mild cam.Hell, you could make more with a very mild combo which would be a good hot street engine that will have ample vaccuum and not guzzle too much fuel. Cam dynamics pt no cd214 is a good all round street cam with good manners or perhaps the cd218 which is the next step up. if your,e on a budget look for crank and rods.Sure you can use your 302 rods but you will pay a premium for the special pistons required with this setup. A good edelbrock performer is a good choice or alternatively if you think you will want more power at a later stage then perhaps a weiand excellerator. a good port job on the heads as well won,t go astray here. Personally i would use open chamber heads for a motor like this with standard size valves( Of reputable quality) with matching springs and hardware. Btw forget about shotpeening and for your intended rev range and budget forget about balnancing the assembly as well.This will save you around 300 bills.Do it if you can afford it. I would focus on building the strongest bottom end you can afford so if you decide on modifying it at a later stage to make more power you can be confident that the bottom end will take the abuse.
200kw at the tread for a 351 with head work, bigger cam and the rest? isnt that a tad conservative? I thought a tough 351 would get around 250rwkw? But then again, im not sure cause i havnt takin that route just yet...?
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