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Old 08-20-2002, 05:02   #1 (permalink)
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351c help needed

i bought a 351 of a guy and i was wondering if its possible to find out what has been done to the engine without taking it apart? i need to know things like what sorta cam its got stroke , heads, compression anything at all and i aint very good with mechanics so please bare with me ....i need to know these things cause th engine is playing up and i need to know as much as possible about it so i can get it sorted out....thanks for your help in advance guys
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Old 08-21-2002, 02:07   #2 (permalink)
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you can see what type of heads are on it, there will be a 2 for 2V or 4 for 4V printed on a corner of each head..

the cam, you will need to pull it out of the motor, stroke, there are some threads that tell you to measure the stroke of it, you pull out one of the spark plugs, put a wire down etc.. i wont go into it, as its all detailed somewhere in the forums, do a quick search

compression, im pretty sure you would need to pull off the heads for that too

good luck

whats the actual engine doing to 'play up' ? maybe some guys on here can give you a diagnosis if you tell the symptoms..

Robbie
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Old 08-21-2002, 06:39   #3 (permalink)
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Guys, to check the compression you don't need to take the heads off, just go to your local AUTO-ONE, or Repco and buy a compression tester. It doesn't have to be the most expensive, as long as it reads, and it gives you an idea of if there is a big difference in the cylinders.

For the compression ratios, yes the heads will need to come off.

What are the symptoms your engine is producing?

Chris
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Old 08-21-2002, 07:03   #4 (permalink)
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if you can be bothered, remove the sump and the crank will have 351 or 4MA stamped on it, they are 351.

302 cranks are stamped 302
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Old 08-21-2002, 20:20   #5 (permalink)
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You can check the cam still in the motor by getting a dial indicator and degree wheel. Check at what degrees the intake opens and close... and also the total lift at the cam this way.
Checking what compression ratio can be tough..with bigger cams there is an overlap of the intake and exhaust lobes which lets a small portion of the gas escape giving a smaller than anticipated compression reading .. and allso the compression reading will not give you anything useful to work out the compression ratio. As previously stated..a big difference in one cyl compared to another will at least give you a starting point..

If you give some details of what's going on we can try to help some more.
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Old 08-21-2002, 21:19   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by xa-coupe
compression reading .. and allso the compression reading will not give you anything useful to work out the compression ratio. As previously stated..a big difference in one cyl compared to another will at least give you a starting point..
As well as cylinder comp balance, you can also use test for dud rings, do a normal comp test, then squirt some oil down the spark plug hole and recheck compression, if its much higher then rings are worn.
2 adjacent cylinders with low compression could indicate a blown head gasket between cylinders.
Dud valves can also be detected with a static comp test

Kieron
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Old 08-21-2002, 22:07   #7 (permalink)
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well the car is playing upfor me big time and it could be a few things and its a bit hard for me to explain but i'll give it a go..when i start the car up (she's a bit cranky to start) oil pressure shoots up to bout 78 psi and then when the car reaches about 150 F in temp i baby her out the driveway and until we get her up to 170 -180 and thats when i give it to the car and no real problems occur( i'll explain this later) now as i keep driving say for about 5 - 10 minutes we start losing power gradualy and then things get a bit bad .. what happens is that when i floor it it sound like it aint getting enough petrol at different points when i rev her so it can happen early like 2000 or up higher at 5- 6000 or anywhere in between. sometimes its worse sometimes it doesnt even happen but i do feel the power loss and it isnt small...now after i warmed up the car and taken it for a drive i come home and leave it for an hour or two just so the engine temp is still ok to drive without warming her up. when i take her out then she just hammers until the heat or sumthing gets to her in a matter of minutes and then the power loss starts again and gets progressively worse...its killing me....a few guys told me to put an isulator plate between the carb and the manifold to stop fuel from boiling or heating up in the carb. the cars an xd 351 with a holley 650 dp , weiand 7516 2V manifold, nine inch with what im told was 3.9 gears but i think they might be 4.11's c4 with a 3-3500 stall (sorry i aint to sure cause i dont use it on the street) all i know is that if i apply the brake wheels start to spin at around 3700-3900 revs...i know i have to replace the standard fuel lines with half inch all the way to sort out fuel flow probs and im currently running a 3 core radiator with twin 10 in thermos, and that too with be replaced by twin 12 inch ef fans cause my car heats up when im stationary and the fact that i dont have a plastic shroud around the fans dont help either.
also might have to upgrade radiator cause it isnt a heavy duty 3 core. im running a twin 2 inch H pipe exhaust system which will be replaced by a twin 2.5inch X-pipe system which will hopefully help me out cause currently the car just doesnt have much ommpphh after 3 grand or so and im just about positive a bigger exhaust will help in that department cause off the line (without a stall) the car pulls hard but once the car gets into mid range to high revs it doesnt pull hard at all and each time i race the car i wind first gear out to 6000 ( and it can go harder that 6000) when second gear comes in revs have only dropped to about 4700- 5000 which leaves the car running at high revs all the time and thats why i feel the exhaust is letting me down cause the only time its really working ok and not overloaded is in the first 3 seconds or so..my speedo doesnt work and i asked this guy who i was racing , how fast was he going,and it was about 160kmph
and i was revving the crap outta 3rd to do this....so what else can i say but i aint too mechanically minded and that im about to go outta my mind please help and if anyone lives close to dandenong id love to caught up with them and talk to them in detail cause i aint too fast when it comes to typing....
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Old 08-21-2002, 22:13   #8 (permalink)
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if you really want to see how slugish your exhaust system is, next time your on the track, drop the pipes and note down any differences
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Old 08-22-2002, 00:26   #9 (permalink)
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what i have done with all my clevelands i have owned, i have replaced the thermostat with a cold 160 degree unit.
my clevelands never liked hot, city, stop,start traffic and this mod did help alot.
also, how old is your current 3 core??
thats what i have used and seem sufficient.
maybe yours could be slightly blocked??

hope this helps
regards jim
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Old 08-22-2002, 04:35   #10 (permalink)
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the 3 core is new but since i havent got the gilmer pulley's i gotta rely on the thermos
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