As the thread title indicates, what do you reckon is the best oiling strategy for a motor's first 10,000kms? I was planning on using Penrite Running-In oil (30W) with no friction agents, (changing at 500, then again at 1000), then go for a pretty thin oil, (eg Mobile 1 Synthetic 0-50W), till 5000, then 10,000 to help penetrate tight clearances. Does this sound like a sound plan?
My running in regime comes from speaking to lots of people in the industry, a few old hot rod boys and from my own experiences. So I've taken the common threads from all this sources and sum it up as:
Use a running engine oil for first 500k's. Don't exceed 1/2 max revs ie no more than 3000 in a clevo, no free revving, no extended idling, no heat extremes, avoid short trips and keep cyclinder pressure up ie load it up in the gears a bit and alternate vehicle speeds and revs every few minutes.
Normal mineral grade oil and new filter for 500-1500k's. No more than 75% of max revs, avoid free revving, keep loading up the motor in gears ie tramp it up hills etc but don't rev it hard, don't do steady highway cruising for too long - every 10/15 minutes change speed & revs.
1500-5000 new oil and filter, still keep using a mineral based oil. Run the engine as you normally would but don't baby it too much.
5000+ change to full synthetic oil if that is your thing.
Stick with the Penrite stuff, eg:running in oil 1000k then a Penrite 10/40 from then on,They say 0/40 Moble 1 for my T3, but I use Moble 5/40 Thats my opinon........
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I dropped my running in oil @ 1000k's in my 351. From 1000k's onward I used normal mineral oil. Driving too easy will wreck the engine as it'll glaze the bores. I used the full rev range but gentle. No sudden acceleration or deacceleration. At 3500k's I had my first tune which was crap I found out later. Drove as normal and raced from 3500k's and the tune. Tuned again @ 11,000k's and raced some more. Engines done 19,200k's.
Engines just been dropped into the new chassis today
well, after reading all that, my engine should be **cked. i run it in for about 5 hours running time to clear all the moly lube, with cheap 20-50w, throughout the rev range ie: idle to 5700. changed to 20-50 penrite, done about 5000kays and turning grey. now it's time for another change. i change oil whenever it starts discolourng rather than kays travelled.
oh, nearly forgot.......each time the oil gets replaced, so does the filter.
As the thread title indicates, what do you reckon is the best oiling strategy for a motor's first 10,000kms? I was planning on using Penrite Running-In oil (30W) with no friction agents, (changing at 500, then again at 1000), then go for a pretty thin oil, (eg Mobile 1 Synthetic 0-50W), till 5000, then 10,000 to help penetrate tight clearances. Does this sound like a sound plan?
PS, the motor runs straight LPG.
I normally dump the running in oil straight after the cam has been run in along with the filter to remove any residual moly lube in the oil.keeping the rings under load is a good idea as this will help them break in properly.Put a trailer on the back of your car and drive up a steep grade varying speed a few times . Oil viscosity depends on clearances to a large degree.Loose clearances usually require heavier oils and hi volume oil pumps.
well, after reading all that, my engine should be **cked. i run it in for about 5 hours running time to clear all the moly lube, with cheap 20-50w, throughout the rev range ie: idle to 5700. changed to 20-50 penrite, done about 5000kays and turning grey. now it's time for another change. i change oil whenever it starts discolourng rather than kays travelled.
oh, nearly forgot.......each time the oil gets replaced, so does the filter.
Well what I wrote was the "ideal" procedure. Even I didn't follow such a strict regime on my last rebuild.
But if you really want a run-in procedure based on the best advice out there then what I wrote seems to be it, or close to it.
well, after reading all that, my engine should be **cked. i run it in for about 5 hours running time to clear all the moly lube, with cheap 20-50w, throughout the rev range ie: idle to 5700. changed to 20-50 penrite, done about 5000kays and turning grey. now it's time for another change. i change oil whenever it starts discolourng rather than kays travelled.
oh, nearly forgot.......each time the oil gets replaced, so does the filter.
I wouldn't worry about it be **cked...I run Royal Purple break-in lube in my engines for the first two hours on the dyno, then I change to Royal Purple synthetic and run them balls out without ever thinking about it again. I change the oil and filter after every 10 passes or 30 days, whichever comes first but could easily run it much longer.
The most important thing you want to do is break-in the cam (if applicable) and seat the rings. You need about 20 minutes at a constant 2000-2500 RPM to break in a flat tappet camshaft. Afterwards, you need to run it up to about 4500 several times under a good load, to fully seat the rings. After that, I'd say run it normally. Any more than that is overkill. Change your oil regularly and always change your filter when you change the oil. I recommend taking it to the track at least one or twice during break-in to run it up under load in a safe place. Launch the car and short shift with your foot to the floor. I believe that people baby their engines too much in the name of "good" break-in procedures.
The idea of not allowing "heat soak" is more of a preventative thing than a break-in thing. When the rings are in a fresh bore, and a lot of heat builds up, they expand and place a lot of load on the cylinder walls and, the idea is, that they will wear the cylinder walls too quickly as a result. You're not going to have heat soak if your cooling system is working properly and engine temperature does not exceed about 200*F/93*C. Ideally, engine temperature would be at least 170*F/77*C and not over about 190*F/88*C during the course of its entire life, including break-in. However, you're more likely to get "heat soak" from turning off a fully warmed engine and then waiting a few minutes and then running it again as the heat in the block will saturate the pistons and expand them in their cylinders a good bit. Of course, this heat is nothing like that experienced during combustion, so does it really matter?
IMO there is no reason to wait until even 2000km before changing to a synthetic oil. I don't believe that there is anything that will "wear in" better by 2000 than will have at 500 given the full range of operating RPM. I don't believe in religiously staying at or below 3000 RPM or any particular number. I do believe in varying the engine load and RPM over its entire RPM range, and that is rather hard to do with a built Clevo in city driving. I also do not believe in running long periods at the same RPM during break-in, but NASCAR does. Drag racers don't "break-in" their engines between rounds. In fact, their break-ins occur during the "warm-ups" in the pits (no load) and on the burnouts before going balls out very promptly thereafter...granted, they're not trying to get several 100K-km out of an engine, either.
My moto is "seat it and beat it." Treat it like the expensive, high maintenance finicky bitch that it is! (grin) Don't baby it, but at the same time, don't abuse it either...or next thing you know is that it will be seeing a solicitor behind your back and hitting your chassis with divorce papers and taking half your money in the process!
Ideally, engine temperature would be at least 170*F/77*C and not over about 190*F/88*C during the course of its entire life, including break-in.
:davis:
Interesting temperatures quoted there Davis.
I wonder if my new-beaut custom radiator with twin thermos is running too cold. My thermostat is a 160F.
I run LPG so was told to run as cool as possible, as the combustion temps are much higher then petrol. I've set the first thermo to turn on at 50C, then the second at 65C. Unless I've stopped at the traffic lights for a while, the second fan rarely turns on. Note that it is winter here and the temps are between 10 and 20C.
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Re: best oil strategy for running in a new motor
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