GreenMachine

Hey again all -

I'm in stupid question mode again, trying to get a bunch of parts together for the Zed's Big Trip To The Workshop in a few weeks, the idea being to get everything done at once...

I've already sorted the Ford electronic ignition (from a parts car i've just picked up). Still looking for an Edelbrock manifold, almost resigned to the fact that i'll have to buy new.

As I've said in other threads, the plan is to get bolt-on stuff done to the 302 now, before the 351 rebuild/stroke early next year. so far, specs are -

1977 ZH Fairlane Marquis
302C/C4/BW Diff (2.73, i believe?)
K&N air filter
600 vac sec Holley
Edelbrock manifold (coming)
Stock Ford electronic ignition (coming)
brand new unleaded 2v heads with tuff valve springs to suit non-stock cam
Genie extractors and a twin 2.25 inch exhaust.

anyways - the question...

The cam's the only other thing i want to get done at the moment - can anyone recommend a suitable grind for that combo, bearing in mind i'm hoping to keep that cam once i go 351. I was thinking something like this -

Crane CD214-52 -

HYDRAULIC - Good idle with lope. Good all round performance with basic intake and exhaust modifications, strong low-mid range torque.
BASIC RPM 2000-4800

info taken from - http://www.cranecams.com.au/caminfo/fordcl7082.htm

The car's only being driven occasionally, 99% street, maybe the occasional drag run. Don't mind a fairly lumpy idle, but it would be nice to be able to drive it to work once in a blue moon and not have to stress about stalling in traffic.

I'd imagine that would require something like a 2200rpm stallie?

thanks in advance

Nick

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351C ZH MARQUISINATOR
Presenting, at great cost to management:
.020 over 351 Clevo, 10:1 comp, ported 302 heads, blueprinted and balanced, custom ground cam, Edelbrock intake, 600 Holley, K&N air filter, Custom Zip-Ties(tm), MSD ignition, Genie extractors, 2 x 2.5" exhaust, 2800rpm stally, rooted C4

gregaust

Try sending a PM to 351ClevoCorty..I'm pretty sure he has a edelbrock performer for a clevo to sell..
With that cam you will prob want more like 2500 stall minimum .

TD302

I'd also say 2500rpm. As a rule I like to have a stall with 500 more rpm then when the cam kicks in. If you buy a new stall the manufacturer will ask you for all the info anyhow.
Cheers Brett
Oh nothing wrong with a big stall on the street I've got a 4300stall and it's fine. It's not an every day car just a weekender, but if I could afford the fuel I wouldn't have a problem.

__________________
California Speed Supplies
HOGG Performance (07)33764333
"Blocks and women are the same, if you got a good one it won't need a girdle"

GreenMachine

my ignorance is gonna shine through here - what does a stallie actually do? i just know that i need one!

do they change the rpm at which the auto starts to move the car? i.e. get to 2500rpm and THEN take off?

and does that cam i mentioned sound alright?

thanks!

__________________
351C ZH MARQUISINATOR
Presenting, at great cost to management:
.020 over 351 Clevo, 10:1 comp, ported 302 heads, blueprinted and balanced, custom ground cam, Edelbrock intake, 600 Holley, K&N air filter, Custom Zip-Ties(tm), MSD ignition, Genie extractors, 2 x 2.5" exhaust, 2800rpm stally, rooted C4

ESP

You need to ring people like Dominator etc to give them the complete details of your car for the best recommendation. It's not just cam specs that play a role. Car weight, Comp ratio, Diff ratio, rear tyre size, intended application
etc etc.

You don't want to stall too high if your motor doesn't REV high. A 2500 stall on a motor that REVS to 4800 for street use is suicide. On Highway driving with that rear end ratio, you will find that you will constantly be driving under the converter.

If you're drag racing every day then fine.........otherwise you will be disappointed and the car will drive like a pig.

Anyway, ring the experts and get what you need

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XE ESP The last of the CLEVO's
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TD302

Well when you say 2500rpm stall that means when you flash stall the convertor it will lock up and take off at 2500rpm. Flash stalling is at approx 30 kph jump on the gas and where the tacho jumps too is the stall. Some think putting the foot on the brakes and hitting the gas is where you'll determine your stall. As for the 2500 being to big when the std is only 1800 or so?? it's not that big so it'll be fine to drive with, but yes the convertor guys are in the know and will ask you everything they need too know. By saying that your 2500 stall will stall much higher with a more torquey engine or even by just adding nitrous. And yes you can drive the car under the rated stall rpm's.
Cheers Brett

__________________
California Speed Supplies
HOGG Performance (07)33764333
"Blocks and women are the same, if you got a good one it won't need a girdle"

TD302

Ring Geoff at the Convertor Shop (07)33908824 he did mine and it works a treat

__________________
California Speed Supplies
HOGG Performance (07)33764333
"Blocks and women are the same, if you got a good one it won't need a girdle"

GreenMachine

thanks for the advice guys - i will call the convertor shop when i've finished with the motor.

any advice as to the cam choice?

__________________
351C ZH MARQUISINATOR
Presenting, at great cost to management:
.020 over 351 Clevo, 10:1 comp, ported 302 heads, blueprinted and balanced, custom ground cam, Edelbrock intake, 600 Holley, K&N air filter, Custom Zip-Ties(tm), MSD ignition, Genie extractors, 2 x 2.5" exhaust, 2800rpm stally, rooted C4

JG33PY

keep in mind the factory stall for a 302 convertor is around 1900 rpm. don't forget a decent tranny cooler.

brenx

I agree. Definately a decent convertor, thats where my 4500rpm convertor that I am currently running came from.

Brenden

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XB Fairmont (street car) 11.07@123.02mph.