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Old 11-08-2004, 16:41   #1 (permalink)
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changing intake manifold, tricks/tips?

Hey guys!

I have a Weiand xcellerator on the way so will be changing my intake soon. Just wondering if any one has any little tricks or tips to make the whole exercise go a bit smoother?

Obviously i need gaskets. Are some brands better than others? Do you use any sort of glue or anything?

Is a torque wrench a necessity? I dont have one so if its super important i will buy or borrow one. I've heard of people not using them for intake changes, if thats ok how tight should it be?

Any help would be awesome!

Thanks

Aaron
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Old 11-08-2004, 18:40   #2 (permalink)
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Re: changing intake manifold, tricks/tips?

Hey xespack,

I recently changed the gaskets on my 351. The gaskets that i purchased were felpro, and so far they're working like a dream. They came in a kit. The only problem i first had was that the 2 cork gaskets tend to squeez out a little bit if ya don't have someone there to hold them in place while you tighten the bolts for the manifold.

I used a non hardening silcone sealer as well. In the 4 corners where the cork gaskets meet the paper port gaskets, i put enough sealer in there to make sure that it would seal. Basically a big dob of it, then just kinda spread it out with my finger.

I used a torque wrench, and tightened the bolts in the right order(ford book will tell ya the order) to an initial 10-12nm, then i went round and tightened them to 18-20 in the same order, then finally to around 25nm. Mines a performer manifold, and i got most of the instructions from here
Edelbrock general manifold installation instructions

Hope this helps :)
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Old 11-08-2004, 23:14   #3 (permalink)
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Re: changing intake manifold, tricks/tips?

Quote:
Originally Posted by xespack
Hey guys!

I have a Weiand xcellerator on the way so will be changing my intake soon. Just wondering if any one has any little tricks or tips to make the whole exercise go a bit smoother?

Obviously i need gaskets. Are some brands better than others? Do you use any sort of glue or anything?

Is a torque wrench a necessity? I dont have one so if its super important i will buy or borrow one. I've heard of people not using them for intake changes, if thats ok how tight should it be?

Any help would be awesome!

Thanks

Aaron
Don't use the cork gaskets they are a pain in the ass just use a bead of automotive silicone instead just for the valley.
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Old 11-08-2004, 23:49   #4 (permalink)
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Re: changing intake manifold, tricks/tips?

If you have standard 2v ports, you will notice the head ports will be smaller than the manifold. You will just have to make do for now, as you will need to remove the heads to do a good port match. Get some felpro gaskets with the part number "1240". They are good 2v ones. I use super glue (one small dot right at each end of gasket) to initially set them to the heads in the exact right spot, then go ahead and do the rest. You can look down the middle two ports of the manifold to line up nice, and torque the bolts in the correct order. I would use a torque wrench so it pulls down evenly. I found its better to go a bit less torque than the ford books reccomends, as long as they are EVENLY torqued.
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Old 11-09-2004, 02:48   #5 (permalink)
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Re: changing intake manifold, tricks/tips?

here the intake torque specs

http://www.hastingsinc.com/Service%2...old_torque.htm
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Old 11-09-2004, 03:23   #6 (permalink)
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Re: changing intake manifold, tricks/tips?

Vote for the Felpro blue gaskets. Torque wrench isn't necessary but the order you do the bolts up is very important. No glue or gasket cement is needed with the Felpro gasket. Make sure you re-check/tighten after a few k's.

Don't bother with the cork gaskets, use a premium quality silicon instead eg Blue Max by Loctite.

A vacuum cleaner is a good idea to make sure you get all the old gasket debris out of the ports and valley, and it is a good idea to plug each port with a small bit of rag if you have to use a scraper to get the old material off.

Also unless they have changed it, the Weiand doesn't come with an EGR block-off plate so you will need to get one machined. The one off an Edelbrock Performer fits if that is what you currently have.
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Old 11-09-2004, 06:17   #7 (permalink)
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Re: changing intake manifold, tricks/tips?

You can make your own EGR block off plate with a small ~inch wide section of 3-5mm thick aluminium strip (hacksaw to desired length). Drill 2 holes, file the edges round. Cut your own gaskit and slap on some silicon gaskit sealer.
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Old 11-09-2004, 14:17   #8 (permalink)
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Re: changing intake manifold, tricks/tips?

What will you be doing with your tin valley plate underneath the manifold?

I too use Felpro, but have used other brands with success.

Main thing is to do the job tidy and keep everything clean, and don't rush. Careful with the scraper too.

I use the cork ends usually, but trim the ends to suit. DON'T cut them too short.

Or you can use sealant.

Any other work done to the engine?
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Old 11-09-2004, 15:00   #9 (permalink)
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Re: changing intake manifold, tricks/tips?

Thanks for all the responses guys!

I dont have EGR anyways so thats no worries!

Ive never seen under the intake before. From what i gather from these replys there is a paper gasket between intake and heads, then a cork gasket at the ends or something?
What is the tin plate? Does it go between the intake and valley?

The motor has a Carter AFB, mild ported heads, mild cam that will be changed soonish. Tri y's and twin 2.5.

I think the Weiand is a bit over kill at the moment but its only got the stock cast iron one and this xcellerator came up for sale at the right price so i thought why not! My mechanic reccomended changing from the stock manifold as he thought the fuel wasnt getting a change to attomise(spelling, right word?) so it was running rich.

Aaron
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Old 11-10-2004, 02:20   #10 (permalink)
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Re: changing intake manifold, tricks/tips?

You may need to play with the tune a little after fitting the xcelerator. If it's already running rich you should be OK, but otherwise you may get a bit of a surging/pulsing feeling when cruising down the road due to it leaning out. A tweek of the idle screws is normally enough to fix this.

The metal plate covers the "valley" between the two heads. I've never had one on my clevo's. It looks like 2 metal intake gaskits joined together with a bit sheet metal in between.

Correct me if I'm wrong.........keeps the hot oil from splashing up on the intake manifold, which keeps it cool, providing a denser air/fuel charge.
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