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Old 12-06-2004, 02:32   #1 (permalink)
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cleveland oil system failure

whats the best way to clean out an oil system (in the car if possiple) ? has any one had a block fail (crack or porous) in the oil gallaries?
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Old 12-06-2004, 05:33   #2 (permalink)
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Re: cleveland oil system failure

To do it properly your really going to have to pull the gallery plugs out of the back of the block. Could be a bit of a pain trying to do it in the car.
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Old 12-07-2004, 06:33   #3 (permalink)
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Re: cleveland oil system failure

What exactly has happened to your engine?
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Old 12-07-2004, 19:26   #4 (permalink)
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Re: cleveland oil system failure

Quote:
Originally Posted by REDEBXR8
To do it properly your [you are, that means you're, not your] really going to have to pull the gallery plugs out of the back of the block. Could be a bit of a pain trying to do it in the car.
A bit of a pain trying to do it in the car? That must qualify for the award for the biggest understatement of the year! <grin> Let's see, what would you do once you finally managed to get the oil galley plugs out with the engine still in the car!

Seriously, for quality block cleaning, both inside and out, the block should be vatted with the galley plugs removed. I also like to run a very long drill bit down them first to smooth out the transitions between the forward cut and the rearward cut. I don't remember the exact drill bit diameter, but it was like 11/32nds or 13/32nds of an inch.

I also like to go through the block and rod each oil galley hole with a .223 caliber rifle cleaning brush and nitromethane-based solvent I like my blocks so clean inside that Ford would be proud of them. Considering that you can't get much cleaner than freshly milled/machined and washed hunk of iron, that's saying a lot. To me, if any dirt at all comes out on a gun cleaning patch, it isn't clean enough. I run it through again and again until the patch comes out lily white.

Everyone has seen this photo before, but here it is again to illustrate the basic concept of using a cleaned and properly prepped block:



I used to buff up the gasket surfaces with a sanding wheel, but I found that they actually seal better without it.

Though you can't really tell by the photos, I run a .125" hole 180* opposite the factory holes on the front cam bearing and .040" holes on the remaining 4 cam bearings and install the bearings "upside down" so that oil is effectively restricted to the cam bearings. This is an ultra-cheap oiling system modification that works well regardless of flat, roller or hydraulic lifters. Debur the holes before installing the cam bearings.

On non-hydraulic lifter camshafts, I recommend restricting the oil flow to the lifters on both sides of the block. This is a bit tough because it basically requires you to sleeve one side of the block and use a restrictor on the other side. I recommend running the "cool face" lifters on any flat tappet camshaft whether hydraulic or mechnical. This is especially true if running a lot of spring pressure as in a hot street/strip application where nose over at lift is in excess of about 200-240 PSI.

Of course, what do I know...there is little point in posting this because all of this is common knowledge.

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Old 12-07-2004, 19:59   #5 (permalink)
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Re: cleveland oil system failure

Davis,
Re: Front cam bearing

What do you do about the groove in the bearing that feeds the distributor gear?
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Old 03-28-2005, 18:46   #6 (permalink)
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Re: cleveland oil system failure

bump
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