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Clevo no go help reqd

8K views 23 replies 10 participants last post by  clevokid 
#1 ·
Have finally got around to getting my 378 going again. Engine will now fire but not actually start? Doesnt run on or anything just fires then dies. Has got good spark (electronic ign) and plenty of fuel at the accelerator pump (borrowed 600 on it as my 750 seems to have a prob).Anyone got any suggestions? Is it possible for fuel pump to have enough to prime the carby but not enough to keep it running, gave pump 4 good pushes and delivered a good shot each time.
 
#2 ·
I take it it has been run in? If not you my have to try raising the idle speed to get it up to temp so as it will run. I dont think it would be your fuel pump. Is it an electric or mechanical, is the timing right it could be a combo of things start with the basics and work from there.
 
#7 ·
It hasnt run in this car before, it is now in an 86 XF. Plug wires etc are all as they were before engine was removed. It sounds fine when it fires so dont think it is a timing/fuel issue. Tried running 12 volts from the battery direct to the coil but still is the same. If you hold the key in the start position it will run fine ( thou dont think the starter would appreciate too much of this). Thinking it must be something in the cars wiring somewhere. Had a mate check the power to coil etc on sunday when I finally finished the wiring so might have to get a bit more of a look into the loom I think. Car was fine with the 6 still in it so not sure what else. Might try changing the plugs but I would think if they were bad it wouldnt fire at all?
 
#10 ·
clevokid said:
Have finally got around to getting my 378 going again. Engine will now fire but not actually start? Doesnt run on or anything just fires then dies. Has got good spark (electronic ign) and plenty of fuel at the accelerator pump (borrowed 600 on it as my 750 seems to have a prob).Anyone got any suggestions? Is it possible for fuel pump to have enough to prime the carby but not enough to keep it running, gave pump 4 good pushes and delivered a good shot each time.

Sounds like a shot balast resistor or the wire from the ignition to the balast resistor to the coil.

If its firing when you turn the ignition key to start then stoping usually with a backfire when you turn the key bakc to the on position then 99% of the time it's one of these two items.

Also if you have a 12volt coil (ie does not need a balast resistor) then make sure you bypass or remove the balast resistor as it will not run.

Cheers
Ross
 
#13 ·
clevokid said:
No backfire it stops as clean as it starts. Any idea where this ballast resistor might be located as havent seen anything out of place. Thanks for the help too

Hi,

Sorry I don't have XF workshop manual, only have on for the XD so am assuming that the wiring is the same.

From it the 6's have a resistor and the 8's don't so while you are cranking the engine the resistor is by-passed and will not provide the 12volts to the coil on returning to the on position.

The resistor is a part of the wiring and is called "resistance wire". Basically you need to bypass the whole wire from the ignition switch to the coil.

From the XD manual:

"
RESISTANCE WIRE REPLACEMENT

1. Disconnect thge resistance wire (pink) at the coil positive terminal.
2. Locate the resistance wire pink at the ignition switch wiring connector adjacent to the steering column.
3. Cut the original resistance wire at the plug leaving enough wire at the plug to solder a new wire to.
4. Insultate the join and route the new wire with the main wiring down to the coil. Tap it to the main wiring.
5. Connect the new wire to the positive terminal of the coil.
6. Cut the loose ends of the old wire back to the loom taping.
"

Obviously you do not want to reinstall a resistance wire. Use normal 15amp wire to replace the whole section from the ignition switch to the coil.

Hope this helps.

Ross
 
#14 ·
Forgot to say also that the wire colour may not be pink but should be the same at the coil and ignition switch connector.

The whole of the original wire is the ballast resistor.

Ross
 
#17 ·
He's still going to have to replace the resistance wire anyway as by the sound of it the coil is a 12v unit and will not run with the resistance wire in place.

If the lead from the battery to direct to the coil was connected with the resistance wire still in place then it would still not give the required voltage. It would be close but maybe low enough for the ignition and coil not to produce any spark.
 
#18 ·
When I tried the directwire battery-coil I had the original wire disconnected. Thought about joining the two wires together but by the sounds of it that wont work either. Might try a whole new wire from the ignition to the coil if for nothing else than elimination. Am thinking it might be something to do with the EST module as the early XF`s didnt have one, although my sparky mate doesnt think this is it either. :fraz:
 
#20 ·
Mike Gayner said:
Sounds like it could be a problem with the ignition barrel. Definately not the ballast resistor, that's been well and truely rulled out.
So has the ignition switch.

Ross
 
#21 ·
hey guys, are you sure it's getting fuel??? I've had trouble starting motors which haven't been started in a while as well... You could try giving the accelerator 5 good pumps then constantly and quickly pumping it while cranking AND when it kicks over untill the revs pick up... This has worked for me before... Alternatively you could use 'start ya bastard' but i've never tried this... You could also 'hand choke' it by putting your hand over the primaries and leaving only a small gap (5c size max)... The reason i say this is because you never know if the carbys gummed up or not after sitting for a long time... If the idle circuits are fukt then constantly pumping the accelerator will let it run for a while and tell you what the problem is... However its pretty easy to flood it so be carefull...
 
#23 ·
Has plenty of fuel, using a borrowed carby that I know is fine as I had a suspicion problem might have been fuel pump/carby related..I am reasonably sure prob is in wiring somewhere as if key is held in the start position it keeps going but as soon as it is released it stops dead. It will fire each and every time key is turned and sounds fine so think this eliminates timing/fuel issues.
 
#24 ·
It`s alive!!!!!! Finally found a way around problem. Disconnected wire from starter solenoid and joined another piece into it where I could reach it. Got Mrs to turn key to start and hold it there. Disconnected new wire to starter and away it went!!!! Nuthin like the smell of avgas in the arvo. Would think now problem is in the ignition barrel itself, unless anyone got any other ideas.
Motor/box and diff centre will be in the for sale section if anyone is interested in a 378 C10 and nine inch lsd centre. Thanks for all the suggestions.
 
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