Clevo setup questions... 4V's...TFC...Crank choice...Toploader... - Ford Forums - Mustang Forum, Ford Trucks, Ford Focus and Ford Cars

xr8_sprint · 02-21-2004, 21:38

Hi there,

I'm building a bit of a warm 351:

SRP Sportsman forged alloy pistons (displacement @ 357ci)
Eagle ESP 3D forged H-beam 6.00" Chevy rods
4MA crank (might go for the Eagle if the crank isn't capable)
Grout filled XE Nascar 4-bolt block with main girdle
4V heads
Crower solid roller cam
TFC manifold
BG 775 carb

Now... i have a "few" questions...

A)

A mate of mine is running 3V heads on his 408 roller windsor and has the TFC manifold... untuned the motor pulled 455RWHP on a Dyno Dynamics dyno at a lazy 7000rpm... no spacer.

Another person i've met with a 4V head setup and TFC has said that a 1" spacer is reccommended with using the 4V heads. Has anyone else heard this? The carb will stick far enough out my bonnet as it is without a 1" spacer on it! (For curiosity's sake this is a 4V 378 stroker with 385 RWHP)

B)

Crankshafts.... I want to rev this thing to approx 8000rpm (yes this is the camshafts operating rev range)... what are peoples opinions on the Standard/4MA/4MAB/Eagle cranks. I've heard standard cranks are 75% nodular, the 4MA is 95% nodular etc etc.

Will my requirements exceed that of a factory crank? $900 for a Eagle may be more of an investment... snapped crank would spell the end of me and my passion for cars...

C
Toploader and 9"

The deal with my engine builder is i have to run a toploader :)

I have a standard toploader and 28 spline 9". I'm guessing i'll have to go full spool with 31 spline Moser axels... Will a toploader survive? Are a bull-nose toploader of any advantage? Any tricks i can do to strengthen the box?

Sorry for all the questions... look forward to your responses... I am looking for 350-400rwhp @ 10.6 comp on 98.

shane

russxr67 · 02-21-2004, 22:45

at this power level i can't see your 4ma crank being a problem.remember back in the 70,s pro stockers were turning these cranks way past 8000 and this was with turned down big ends.tfc can be contacted on 03 93620266 .704 bucks retail.shane ,are you going to use the tongues in your 4vs?.how big a roller are you going to use?

TruBlu351 · 02-22-2004, 01:43

What clutch set are you going to run?

Make sure you use a Billet steel flywheel and good hi-tensile bolts connecting it to the crank.

RAM make a good 11 inch clutch.

The 28 spline 9" should be OK. It's really only an issue if you are going to be using slicks - ie: the driveline is taking ALL the brunt. With just street tyres, they should break loose and smoke up before the 9" does......hopefully!

The bullnose toploader input shaft is 1 3/8" vs the standard 1 1/16". They are stronger but the standard ones are still bloody strong

!! I'd be quite happy sticking with it......money you can spend on the engine!

Cheers

TruBlu351 · 02-22-2004, 01:54

Oh, and make sure your toploader shifter is running nicely. They can be a bit clunky requiring a bit of manhandling.......if neglected.

Take it all apart and put a shifter rebuild kit on it.....especially the reverse lockout spring (can't remember the name of it) and the spring that centres the shifter.

Cheers

xr8_sprint · 02-22-2004, 17:31

Yes i'll definetly be using toungues in the heads. I looked at the unported intake runner of the 4V and couldn't believe how stupidly big those ports are!

At the moment my choice is a Crower 15484. "Ultra-Action/Performance level 5. Advertised duration - 311 intake, 318 exhaust - .759" .736" lift." Rev range 5500-8000/Redline 8250 plus.

"Mid-range and top end drag profile"

I plan on using the 3.5's, LSD and 28 spline axels to run the motor in. Once she's all run-in, registered etc. i'll be going for the 31-spline full spool with 4.5's :)

xr8_sprint · 02-22-2004, 17:33

i've got a custom 2.5 tonne organic clutch in my 302W, could this be used?

if not i have a Hayes 11" clutch that was in it before i pulled out the driveline.

shane

Racer · 02-22-2004, 17:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by xr8_sprint

i've got a custom 2.5 tonne organic clutch in my 302W, could this be used?

if not i have a Hayes 11" clutch that was in it before i pulled out the driveline.

shane

My Cortina used an 11 inch McLeod disc with a F100/F150 diaphram pressure plate. Nice and light under foot, and hooks up really well. 5 years of 6,000rpm launches and it was still as good as new. Be sure to use a steel flywheel and ARP clutch and flywheel bolts.

I also had concerns with my top loader. The input shaft is the weak spot. Fortunately it helt up ok but destroyed several 9 inch diffs in the process.

xr8_sprint · 02-22-2004, 20:22

yeah i've been told the 11" Hayes clutches arent too bad at all for the strip....

i'm not overly worried about the toploader, i've seen several of them for $300-400, so i might have a couple as spare in case i kill one.

I guess my main concern is the diff... i wont be bolting on the slicks and going to the strip until the 31 spline full spool is in. The only reason it'll last on the street is because there wont be much traction!

might be needing a 6000 limiter for the street i think hehe

shane

Racer · 02-22-2004, 21:57

I was running 31 spline axles - the manual just killed them.
Broke the centres as well. The nodular big bearing centre cured that.
Still had axle problems though.

Its at times like this you wish you had an auto!

xr8_sprint · 02-22-2004, 22:43

well this will be fun..... =P

i know a auto will be quicker, but a manual will just be more challenging and enjoyable (for me personally) to drive...

shane