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Old 04-30-2003, 15:34   #1 (permalink)
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Clveo with Ford 4 Speed Auto. Anyone know what Extractors will fit?

G'day, I am puting together a Clevo with a pre Electronic 4 Speed Auto (Ordered From USA used in Mustang with a 351 Windsor)and I have noticed the 4 Speed is biger than the C4 it replace's. I have been told that I will have a problem with fitting up exctractors. I have been told by one Exhaust shop that seemed to have a rough idea about what I should do, that Pacemaker wont fit. As they hug the engine and box to close.

Has anyone used this combo before or know of someone that has come across this before?

Any avice, tips or brands of extractors you know would fit?

Thanks heaps for any advice.

Please email me: frank@winshop.com.au
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Old 05-01-2003, 01:55   #2 (permalink)
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I haven't heard of anyone doing this... but if it's achievable without too many hassles I can see a lot of people giving it a bash
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Old 05-01-2003, 02:07   #3 (permalink)
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I have run a set of 2V tri-Y pacemakers in an XA fitted with 351C & AOD. I assume this is the auto you refer to ("metric" on the trans pan). There were no clearance issues. In fact, even the driveshaft fitted without modification. You ABSOLUTELY MUST get the TV cable adjusted correctly, or your new box will not last very long.

There are a few mods that can increase the durability of the AOD. Try Baumann Engineering (USA) and Lentech (Canada) web sites for more info.

Good luck - they are a really great auto.

Cheers
Tris
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Old 05-01-2003, 02:38   #4 (permalink)
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Interesting conversion. I assume the gearbox is strong enough?
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Old 05-01-2003, 03:36   #5 (permalink)
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I ran an AOD behind an XD 4.9 with the original column auto. It was a pretty easy install, except for the hassles of making all the bloody linkages. I was able to cut and widen the link that ran under the box and make a new mount where it was supported. The link up to the selector on the box was easy as was the selector itself.

The rear mount for the gearbox needed to be moved to the rear mounting holes on the body, but the tailshaft was OK as was the speedo drive.

I found that the original exhaust on the L/H interfered with the new linkages by about 25 mm where there was originally 25 mm of clearance. The R/H didn't interfere at all though.

A couple of points that you need to be aware of:

The AOD doesn't have a kick down linkage like the C4/C10 or FMX. It uses something like a "throttle position and speed of movement" set up. It’s a real hassle to set up right.

It has move continuously with the throttle and over the correct arc of movement. I ended up having so many holes in the throttle link it looked like it had been lightened. But if I remember, one of the standard holes on the Carter Thermoquad did the job in the end.

I also cheated and cut up the original “kickdown” link. I welded in a 6mm Nut in the end and then used a piece of 6mm threaded rod and a rose joint to adjust the length of the link.

I took it back the Auto Transmission Guy who I bought it from for the fine tuning.

I found that the diff ratio that I was using (2.74:1) was way to low for the 4.9. At 100km/h the old girl was ticking over at a little under 1,500 rpm. The solution was to fit a 3.23:1 ratio that was common in utes. This also corrected the 12-13% speedo error that I found that I had. (Thanks Mr. Plod!) In the end it would happily cruise along at 100Km/h with about 1,750rpm on the tacho.

The AOD has a “Locked” over drive and was designed for economy not performance, don’t try to tow or the like in OD, it will not like it one bit. Also the lock outs on the gear selector are like this

P R N OD/D 3 1 It will kick down to third or second from OD but I found it was best to do the thinking for a kick down. It would change up in to OD at about 70Km/h.

It can not hold 2nd Gear. But that also means that your existing selector (T-bar or Column) will still work without mods.

I got 200,000kms out of it before I sold it and except for a destroyed torque converter when a brother in law took the old girl up to 6,000rpm in a fit of %^%#@, all was well.

Best of luck.
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Old 05-01-2003, 04:23   #6 (permalink)
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Thank you very much to everyone that offered advice and replyed. I'll let you know how I go with it all. Really thanks again.
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Old 05-01-2003, 04:25   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Francis
Thank you very much to everyone that offered advice and replyed. I'll let you know how I go with it all. Really thanks again.
I look foward to seeing how it goes. Will be a good modification for those daily driven Clevos out there.
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Old 05-03-2003, 14:25   #8 (permalink)
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To get an AOD to hold 2nd gear you do this. As stated above, the selector positions are P R N OD D 1.

Put it in 1st and accelerate, at the desired shift point, move the T-bar to D. The gearbox will change into 2nd, then pull the T-Bar back to 1st and it will hold 2nd gear.

Strength wise, they are OK in standard setup, but there are some mods to improve them. In USA they can be built to handle heaps of power.

One thing that I found was I needed to run 2 sandwich plates between the engine (351C) and bellhousing. I found the torque convertor had been rubbing on the pump mounting bolts at the front of the transmission.

Good luck
Tris
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