xrgt

going the alloy head route... whats she going to pull?

351c stock bottom end...
close enough to zero deck...
11.0:1 comp
AFD 4v 230cc
custom cam around 600 lift
TFC or FUNNELWEB
Proform race series carb 750cfm
Mallory comp 140
1 7/8in primaries into 2.5/3 inch zorst

4Vman

What do you mean by stock bottom end? The combo you're suggesting will need a pretty bullet proof bottom end to allow it to rev hard enough to make use of all the stuff you're suggesting.

xrgt

no cash flow for a "bullet proof" bottom end....

that's why god invented rev limiters.... :)

Depending on cam choice, I guess i'd be stretching it a bit....

A friends got a stock bottom end 302c, and ran a B&M blower af heads and got six months worth of punishment before the bottom end went....i believe a rod or somethn... he now has bullet proof stroker 347 with same setup....

Judging by some of the previous posts, the stock bottom end can handle a fair bit of abuse...

STROKEXD

Those heads, large cam like you're suggesting and Tunnel ram inlet will put your power into the 6500-7500 territory.

So agree with 4Vman a stock bottom end would be inadequate. Sure if a 6 months life span suits then you'll get away with it.

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xdclevo

I call a stock bottom end one with standard crank and rods. My stock bottom end has ARP rod/main studs, TRW forged pistons and is ballanced. xrgt, is that what you consider stock? If so, it should be fine to 7000 rpm every now and then. Still, if i was keeping at 351 cubes, i would stick with the 2v AFD's.

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10.70 @ 125.00 on the black fun top
408 Cube Cleveland.

XD408

I agree with the rest of them wouldnt it be better just to spend the cash on the bottom end now and whatevers leftover on the top end and upgrade the the top end stuff as you go saves you pulling the engine out again or damaging other valvetrain components when it goes bang which it will with a high revving clevo with no attention to the bottom end, the cranks good enough to handle the punishment but you should still balance atleast externaly if not internaly and upgrade the rod bolts. To get the compression u want your gonna need to run a set of decent pistons anyway. but a setup as youve mentioned should be good for atleast 550-600 Fwhp

4Vman

I agree guys, ARP rod bolts and balancing are absolutely a MUST before considering to spin it over 5500 rpm with decent compression.
Id build the bottom end to easy handle the potential power output of the motor first then add topend components later on if the budgets tight.
You'll never get anywhere near the potential power output of your prefered setup because it will go bang 2000rpm before it gets there.

xrgt

i agree...

maybe a balanced short block from the states for christmas...please santa :)

1XYGTHO

I've built junker STOCK bottom ended engines that have had more than than 12" piston to bore clearance and stock rod bolts that have seen 7000 RPM with N20 without a drama. They haven't lasted more than a season but they have seen a shit load of punnishment.

Clevos like to have ARP bolts and a nice balance job to hold together. Essentially it all depends on what you want to do with the engine mate. If you're going to spin it to 7000 RPM everytime you get into the car then it's not going to last very long regardless of how tough you build the bottom end. I knw guys who rip their engines out of their car after every meet for a freshen up...

Anyway, 7000RPM out of a clevo with ARP bolts, nice forged pistons and a balance job is quite a reasonable expectation.

Have fun and don't be scared to experiment.

Troy

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'Injection is nice, but I'd rather be BLOWN'