STROKEXD

Spent the greater part of 2 hours setting my valve lash to exact specs (25"), making sure I got it accurate to +/- 1", by checking and rechecking.

Though they had been done recently and quite carefully, I found the settings varied anywhere between 25-30".

Has made a huge difference to performance, and the cam feels bigger than it was before and the exhaust note has smoothed out. Highly recommend you guys running solids to take the extra time to set-up yours to exact specs and also go the minium lash you need to run, as it really gives you more out of the cam.

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xdclevo

Well, as the Crane web site says, i set my cold lash 5 to 6 thou less than the cam card suggests as i have alloy heads(21 thou instead of 26). Well not long after i wipped all the cam lobes and have been told the reduced lash may have caused it. I am now setting exactly what the card says to, and the cam has survived well.
The trick to setting rollers acuratly is to close down the posi lock until there is a very small amount of feel on the feelers. Then lock the grub screw tight while holding the posi lock steady. Then turn the posilock with the 9/16 spanner that last bit to get the correct feel with the feeler gauge, and it will stay set accuratly. Took me a bit to get the hang of it, but as STROKEXD said, it has never ran better.

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10.70 @ 125.00 on the black fun top
408 Cube Cleveland.

brenx

I set mine very tight. The feeler gauge can just slide in. I usually set them, then go over them again using a torque wrench, turning the engine over to make sure it's on the heal of the cam. I usually find I am 1-2thou out on the first adjustment.

Brenden

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XB Fairmont (street car) 11.07@123.02mph.

northiam

When setting the lash to you blokes use the 90 - 180 - 270 deg method as in the workshop manual as I cant help thinking there must be a better way as are they all at true base of cam lobe? What method do you use?

xacoupe

I always set mine to .025 and tight.
By tightening or loosening the lash you can change the engine's charecteriscs quite a lot.. when they are tight the engine has more power and torque up high than when they are loose. When they get a bit loose on mine the engine is a lot more drivable but loses a tiny amount of pull at higher rpms.
I have never tried it but I have read that you can tighten the lash right up to about .015 with no ill effects for tuning purposes. Given the problems xdclevo has had I am in no hurry to try it myself.

STROKEXD

Yeah it makes sense xacoupe and I will stick to 25" also for same reasons.

northiam I made a plug into the starter circuit so I can nudge the motor over when under the bonnet, so I basically check each one individually and am able to make extra sure it is on the heal of the cam.

Also after setting it, re-checked each one with a 26" feeler to make sure it was too tight for that, that way I knew I was spot on 25".

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xd351ute

Do you set them cold or hot at 25"? I have been setting mine at 18" cold, but as the cam was in the car when i brought it am now unsure of what to set them at.
Any one have any ideas?

xdclevo

I used to use that method, but have since gone to the "correct" method.
Just as the exaust valve starts to open off its seat, i adjust the inlet.
Then, when the inlet is at full lift, and half way down to its seat again, i set the exhaust. There isnt much in the 2 methods, but the latter definatly makes sure lifter is on the propper base of the cam.
Just make sure you dont confuse yourself half way.

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10.70 @ 125.00 on the black fun top
408 Cube Cleveland.

northiam

I set mine using the xdclevo correct method at .022 hot lash (F238). Not as loud now and seems to run harder. The oil pressure is up too!! (Which makes sense)

xdc351

I have just finished setting my cold lash to .020 on the newly installed solid.

I reckon it'll be OK considering the cam states .020 and .017 valve clearance respectively for the intake and exhaust. It doesn't mention hot or cold so i'm assuming hot. Its a wade cam. Any suggestions?

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Just like a Tsunami.