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Old 05-10-2006, 04:53   #1 (permalink)
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Diff Rebuild for Cleveland ;)

Calling all Melbourne guys,

Can anyone recommend somewhere for me to take my all new 9" centre section for assmebly?

Also....can anyone give me some advice on how to get the discs off the rear axles? Is that a machine shop press off job?

Thanks.
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Old 05-10-2006, 05:08   #2 (permalink)
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Re: Diff Rebuild for Cleveland ;)

Quote:
Originally Posted by TruBlu351
Calling all Melbourne guys,

Can anyone recommend somewhere for me to take my all new 9" centre section for assmebly?

Also....can anyone give me some advice on how to get the discs off the rear axles? Is that a machine shop press off job?

Thanks.
The rear disks are held on by the wheel studs which you can hammer out. Use a pin punch or a press.
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Old 05-10-2006, 06:05   #3 (permalink)
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Re: Diff Rebuild for Cleveland ;)

Quote:
Originally Posted by xcgxl
The rear disks are held on by the wheel studs which you can hammer out. Use a pin punch or a press.
OK, thanks.

So when I fit my new Strange axles with screw in studs, can I just slide the discs over the studs like most other cars? ie: the wheel holds the disc in place?
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Old 05-10-2006, 08:06   #4 (permalink)
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Re: Diff Rebuild for Cleveland ;)

Supa Trik does a good job.
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Old 05-10-2006, 17:04   #5 (permalink)
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Re: Diff Rebuild for Cleveland ;)

Quote:
Originally Posted by TruBlu351
OK, thanks.

So when I fit my new Strange axles with screw in studs, can I just slide the discs over the studs like most other cars? ie: the wheel holds the disc in place?

yeah thats how i have mine, i have mark williams and the rotors just sit on the studs and are held buy the wheels nuts... normally there would be a srew to hold the rotor to the axles, but on these type of axles there isn't a hole tapped for the screw so its just up to the wheel nuts, which works fine.
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Old 05-10-2006, 17:25   #6 (permalink)
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Re: Diff Rebuild for Cleveland ;)

Quote:
Originally Posted by xcgxl
The rear disks are held on by the wheel studs which you can hammer out. Use a pin punch or a press.
Preferably use a copper hammer to punch the studs out if you go the hammer way. I take it by mounting the rotor on the outside of the flange that you've compensated with the bearing off set to allow the caliper to bolt back up in original position unless you're going to mount EA/EB calipers. If not your overall track will increase obviously by the thickness of the rotors. I have moser on order for my XB and bought long push in studs ( ROMAC ) to keep the rotor in the factory position. ROMAC are the only one's ( According to Rocket ) who make the longer studs to suit the rotor behind the flange as mounted on XB/XC range 9".
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Old 05-10-2006, 18:10   #7 (permalink)
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Re: Diff Rebuild for Cleveland ;)

I am most interested to hear of any decent arrangement for wheel studs to suit Moser billet axles with XC rear disks. I have gone through 3 sets of new studs because the steel in the flange is harder than factory and strips the splines off the studs. Are screw in studs an option? If not, would genuine Ford studs be any harder (steel)?
I would very much like to see photos and part numbers. Sydcomp will gladly supply the axles, but no decent studs.
PS: Mounting (placing) the disks on the outside of the flange is NOT an option.
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Old 05-11-2006, 00:32   #8 (permalink)
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Re: Diff Rebuild for Cleveland ;)

Quote:
Originally Posted by xcgxl
I am most interested to hear of any decent arrangement for wheel studs to suit Moser billet axles with XC rear disks. I have gone through 3 sets of new studs because the steel in the flange is harder than factory and strips the splines off the studs. Are screw in studs an option? If not, would genuine Ford studs be any harder (steel)?
I would very much like to see photos and part numbers. Sydcomp will gladly supply the axles, but no decent studs.
PS: Mounting (placing) the disks on the outside of the flange is NOT an option.
You've certainly got my interest. I was not aware of any of that. Were any of your 3 sets the ROMAC studs. Once the axles turn up I will do the exercise and and let you know.
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Old 05-11-2006, 01:41   #9 (permalink)
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Re: Diff Rebuild for Cleveland ;)

I got my MOSER axles and studs from QPAAC. The studs are a tight fit in the axle but then better than having them spin loose. Use a press to fit them no worries.Hammering the studs in was not an option.Bit fiddly holding the discs etc but worked out ok.
I pressed one spare stud in as a test and back out to check since they were tight and they didn't strip the splines off.
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Old 05-11-2006, 02:34   #10 (permalink)
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Re: Diff Rebuild for Cleveland ;)

The new Strange axles I'll be ordering tomorrow have "screw in" rear studs. They just screw into the axle flange. The press in knurled type just drive me "nuts"....pardon the pun I like to be able to have an easy option to change them if they ever get cross threaded/break.

Good call about the rotors mounted on the inside of the flange! What's up with that stoopid design? I forgot all about that setup. As mentioned, that's going to screw with my rear track big time. Does anyone know a way around this setup? I've seen a few aftermarket brake setups....possibly a different mounting bracket for the calliper?

pracy.....Do you have a 9" rear end? Of if you have a Borg Warner, is it the same as the 9" design....disc behind the axle flange? How did you sort it? Are EA etc discs deeper, allowing them to sit over the top of the flange?

I "was" planning on giving all the measurements for the new axles tomorrow, but it may have to wait.

I was planning on upgrading my rear brakes in the future, but that's down on my shopping list. RRS might be able to help me out.

Thanks for the info.
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