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Old 08-27-2005, 23:25   #1 (permalink)
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Dissy removal/vac adv q's

Hi,

At the risk of sounding a little bit silly I need to ask you guys some questions:

This arvo while attempting to set the timing on my 351 cleveland, I managed to break the bolt that holds the dissy in place. I have my easy outs at the ready, but I need to remove the dissy to get to the bolt.

What do I need to mark on my dissy to ensure it goes back in the same way?

Also my XD V8 book says the timing should be 3 +- 2 deg??? I marked my balancer at 0 degrees and then lined that mark up with my pointer. Is that right?

Next, and probably my silliest question of the afternoon, do the carb (600vac) and the dissy get their vacume from the inlet manifold? I just discovered the vac hose from my dissy goes straight to my holley!!!!! Then there is a vac hose coming out from under the holly that has been capped?!

I didn't check these when I changed my engines over. I guess that is why it has been running shithouse.

Thanks in advance for any tips,
Ray
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Old 08-27-2005, 23:53   #2 (permalink)
Nod
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Re: Dissy removal/vac adv q's

Definately easier to remove the dizzy to use the easyouts. Just remove the dizzy cap, look to where the rotor arm points and place a mark directly in line with it (i.e. if it points to the radiator hose put a mark on the hose directly in line with the rotor arm.)
Normally as far as timing goes I set it to 5 deg BTDC and then keep advancing it 2 deg at a time between test drives until it starts to ping under load, then I back it off 2 deg.
Some engine setups run better with ported vaccuum (using the tube halfway up your Holley) and others prefer manifold vac (the tube at the base of your Holley). Holley usually recommends using ported vac but it really is a matter of trying them both and seeing which works the best for you.
Just make sure that all unused ports are capped.
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Old 08-28-2005, 01:21   #3 (permalink)
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Re: Dissy removal/vac adv q's

When you yank out the dizzy, the rotor will move a bit more just before it is right out. It is the dizzy gear turning around the cam gear, so take this into account, or you will be one tooth out. When putting back in, it takes a bit of mucking around trying to get the bottom of the dizzy shaft over the oilpump drive. Usually turning the engine back and forth a slight bit with a socket on the harmonic balancer bolts does the trick.
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Old 08-28-2005, 02:47   #4 (permalink)
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Re: Dissy removal/vac adv q's

Thanks,

It is very re-assuring to know there are people out there who can help those of us that know very little about our toys.

I will pull the dissy tonight and easy out my bolt. How can I tell if I am one tooth out? I am guessing it will still run?

Thanks also for the advice on the vac hose. My concern is that if the dissy is piped to the carb, then where is the carb getting it's vacume from? My car bogs down, farts etc, if you give it a bit, prefering to ease it on slowly, then gives you more top end.

Do you think I need vac to the holley and to the dissy from the manifold?

BTW, I keep writing dissy as I can't spell "distributer". It just looks wrong.

Dion, I spied you out and about on the highway from the beaches the other weekend. Your falcon looks great!

Ray
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Old 08-28-2005, 02:56   #5 (permalink)
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Re: Dissy removal/vac adv q's

The key is not to mark where the rotor faces till you pull your dizzy out about an inch. You will see what i mean as you do it. If it is out one tooth, it will either be very retarded, where it will fire, baackfire and stall. The trouble is you won't be able to turn it enough clockwise to get enough advance into it. Same if you are advance one tooth too far, it won't wind over, or maybe only real slow, with not enough adjustment the other way. The carby also usually has two conections. One is full manifold vacume, and one is only activated when the butterflys are open. I have never run vac advance, so dont know much about it.
Yeah, i had a good blast to the beaches that day. Problem is the next drive i went on the C4 blew up for the 14th time in 14 years. Gees they are strong boxes. Why would any one want anything else
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Old 08-28-2005, 05:08   #6 (permalink)
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Re: Dissy removal/vac adv q's

Quote:
Originally Posted by xdclevo
Yeah, i had a good blast to the beaches that day. Problem is the next drive i went on the C4 blew up for the 14th time in 14 years. Gees they are strong boxes. Why would any one want anything else
You going the powerglide then
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Old 08-28-2005, 05:11   #7 (permalink)
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Re: Dissy removal/vac adv q's

The two vacuum ports on the carb I don't believe are for your VS operation??

One is for the dissy and the other is for use with a vacuum gauge. The one that has no vacuum at idle is the dissy one. As xdclevo mentioned, this one activates when the butterflies are open whilst cruising on the road.

Is your motor stock or worked any?

Advance your initial timing as high as possible (as mentioned), you'll be suprised how your bottom end will come alive and nasty flat spots disappear (if thats the problem). Try using 98 PULP, this will allow you to run slightly higher timing and reduce the onset of pinging.
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Old 08-28-2005, 17:36   #8 (permalink)
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Re: Dissy removal/vac adv q's

I am not sure about the internals of this engine, it is a bit of a mystery motor. I know it has a 4MAB crank though as I saw the numbers when I changed the oil pump.

I thought the Holley would need to have a vac hose to the manifold to open the secondary's??

I am on my way to pull the dissy, will post again later.

Ray
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Old 08-28-2005, 20:18   #9 (permalink)
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Re: Dissy removal/vac adv q's

Quote:
Originally Posted by raytriplej
I thought the Holley would need to have a vac hose to the manifold to open the secondary's??
Ray
No there is no seperate hose for the vac secondries that run to the manifold.
The carby allready accesses manifold vac from below the butterflies.
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Old 08-28-2005, 20:38   #10 (permalink)
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Re: Dissy removal/vac adv q's

Quote:
Originally Posted by raytriplej
Thanks,



BTW, I keep writing dissy as I can't spell "distributer". It just looks wrong.

Ray
You're right. You can't spell "distributor" !

Seriously, do as Nod says, but try more initial timing. I would try 10-12 degrees and go up from there.
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