I've got a few questions guys. Please help me out.
1. -How have you guys taken off valve springs without removing the heads?
2. -Whats the average price for some heavy duty valve springs? (I've had quotes from $75-$135)
3. -If i was to put in a wilder cam, would it be advisable to replace the springs?
4. -Does anything else need replacing?
5. -Whats the name of a good book for rebuilding/performance modding the clevo?
Cheers guys.
I've still got some learning to do
.Trav.
1. ABW on head spring compressor. Don't bother with cheaper items. Have cylinder at TDC. Hold the valve with a peg. Or use compressed air in the cylinder to keep the valves up.
3. Yes. You will get valve bounce which is not a nice thing.
4. Must replace or recondition lifters. Rub in a figure 8 with 80 grit emery paper on a piece of glass as per Vizard instructions - it works a treat. A new timing chain as the original will be stretched.
If the heads are stock you will use a 214/224 generic cam. This won't need upgrade of rockers, retainers, valve locks or valves.
5. Factory manual, How to build horsepower series by David Vizard
[QUOTE=Trav 351]I've got a few questions guys. Please help me out.
-How have you guys taken off valve springs without removing the heads?
-Whats the average price for some heavy duty valve springs? (I've had quotes from $75-$135)
-If i was to put in a wilder cam, would it be advisable to replace the springs?
-Does anything else need replacing?
-Whats the name of a good book for rebuilding/performance modding the clevo?
Cheers guys.
I've still got some learning to do
.Trav.[/QUOTe Single valve springs can easily be replaced by using a mini spring compessor and doubles can too but remember this type of compressor only acts on the outside spring and will leave the inner spring uncompressed and therefore more difficult to install.When installing another cam that is larger than what you already have you need to take these things into consideration.Match your cam specs with the manufacturers recommended spring pressures.Secondly,with the stock head setup you will be able to install single springs with a damper only .If you choose a cam that requires double wound springs(not a flat inner)your spring seats and guides need machining down to accept different seals.Now this will render your retainers and valve locks useless as they will not work with double springs and in essence are crap anyhow.You now need to look at valves themselves.Stock valves have a nasty reputation for losing their heads at inoppurtune moments and i would have no hesitation at this stage to upgrade to say a 5000 Ferrea ar similar valve.You probably get the idea now.The more radical you go the more you need to step away from stock components.It all goes hand in hand.In a nutshell the stock setup can handle moderate lift cams with a single spring with a damper.I would prefer these over a heavier single spring as I have seen these break before .I have one clevo in the shed that dropped a valve due to a broken spring on a stock motor.The exhaust valve dropped into the cylinder,holed the piston,put a 4 inch split in the bore ,messed the head etc.Dual springs are better but as i said will require heads off.Look at getting a set of quality pushrods while you,re at it as the stockers have about as much strength as spaghetti.hope this helps.
4. Must replace or recondition lifters. Rub in a figure 8 with 80 grit emery paper on a piece of glass as per Vizard instructions - it works a treat. A new timing chain as the original will be stretched.
What? Are you suggesting to rub the contact face of the lifter.The contact face of lifters is convex in shape and cam lobes are ground in such a fashion as to promote some lifter rotation.I would never recommend this.
Look at getting a set of quality pushrods while you,re at it as the stockers have about as much strength as spaghetti.hope this helps.
Yeah, it helps.
I wanna try to keep the heads on at this stage. I know a head guy now, so if they need to come off, i'll let him handle it.
To replace the pushrods, does the intake manifold need to come off?
Can someone recomend a cam & other bits? Brand names, specs etc.
ATM i want a relatively cheap (a few hundred) fix up.
Its running on 7 cylinders, i think its just 1 exhust spring that needs replacing.
I'm now thinking about a cam & anything else that'll need replacing (pushrods, lifters, whatever) so i can run a wilder cam for a bit more power until i can afford a full rebuild of engine & car. Bit of a story i thought i'll add.
Quote:
Originally Posted by falcon coupe
Listen to Brenx, he knows the score :)
Will do. I've seen many other posts. Seems like a top bloke.
XBGS351: suggested a cam that'd be suitable. Problem is going bigger (I mean much heavier pressured springs) may need machining. Which requires heads off.
I'd go the cam suggested and get the springs checked out. Any engine shop should have a spring tester. Although you can get some singles 130 closed and 330 opens that'd so the trick nicely for a reasonably large sized hyd cam. They don't require any machining either. Then you'd have the option of going a bigger cam once you get the right histall and diff ratio.
That running on 7 issue on the exhaust side maybe a burnt valve or the valves recessed in the seat? You can't tell without the heads off but you can do compression/leak down tests on the engine.
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