Hope to recheck the pushrod length today/tonight then fit the manifold. Then it's just get the correct length pushrods, fit the pushrods, roller rockers and rocker covers.
If you look closely enough you can see why my young fella thought it'd be great to paint the exterior of the block with grease using a spanner. The color of grease is blue by the way.
I hope to have it 100% completed by Wednesday as I am sick of working on it. I spent the best part of 8 hours screwing round with pushrods and piston to valve clearance. I was ready to kill someone.
red04vxe : because Pavtek didn't put the whole engine together. So I get to be the one that needs to check it. Pavtek also didn't have access to my cylinder heads.
Looking good .It maybe a pain now but it will be worth it .You will also have the pleasure of saying you built it .
Don't you just love the little ones help. Nothing better than the help of your kids but it slows thing down a fair bit taking stuff of them or trying to find things that they had just 1 minute ago .
Got to love em
Just a Quick Question, WHY are you doing piston to valve now after short is balanced and assembled?
Yeah, best time is when dummying up the four corners to get deck heigh sorted, but being on a bit of a time frame, and no heads, sometimes you just have to live with a bit of hope, and seems it come up good. I made this mistake years ago, and had to retard the cam to get adequate clearance, so i wont be going there again.
brenx, its looking good now. I bet your dreaming about it in your sleep at this stage.
I'd love to just whack it together but I need to be 100% sure it's right. It's giving me the shits going through all the normal procedure to make sure it's good to go. I'm not 100% happy with the contact patch on the tip of the valve. It's getting there though. Just takes time and for me to stay sane I need breaks from it.
I'm not 100% happy with the contact patch on the tip of the valve. It's getting there though. Just takes time and for me to stay sane I need breaks from it.
I assume you have an adjustable pushrod to get length correct? Still, with your deck height being heigher than before and your heads having less material, the original length, but in the 3/8 would be pretty close. Sounds like you will need slightly shorter than before but.
There's 15thou off the block and 40thou off the heads 55thou total. You'd expect a pushrod that was 50thou shorter to be close but it's not.
The adjustable pushrods useless. It has no numbers on it so you don't know how long it is. I know each 360 turn is 50thou though. I'm not confident it won't fail under normal valvespring pressure. I fitted the outer spring to the no1 cyl last night as the test springs are a good idea but without any way of measuring the length accurately, it's pointless. The adjustable pushrods adjustment also moves while your pulling it past the cylinder head. Which is handy. Tools are supposed to make a job easier. All they've done is make it harder than it really is and a hell of a lot more time consuming.
So far the best one is 8.492" long. I've tried three length pushrods so far. The other two are shorter than this one. I used a lifter from the old engine to test. Then swapped to a new lifter and found it made no difference. Looks like I may need a 8.5" pushrod.
Gees, you do it the hard way. You also have to remember, that your other block probably had 35 thou off it, and this one only has 15 thou off it, so really you would be back to about 20th different than before. You should get a proper checker and use "vernier calipers" to get a real measurement, and order from there. This checker worked on my cast iron heads and alloy heads.
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