pracy

Hey guys,
I've been working away the last couple weeks bring my 351c together for my XE Falcon (4Spd). Thought it was at the stage where i needed to know a couple more things and purchase some more parts so i thought i better get some direction.....
specs to date are;

-Block@ 30thou, tested. 2 Bolt.
-2v Iron closed chamber heads with ULP hardened seats and very mild port work.
-ACL Race rebuilt kit with cc'd pistons dished for CR of around 10.5:1 to about 10.8:1.
-regrind 351 aussie crank and rods
-Crow Cam 21603
-Crow valve train kit K2102 (springs, push rods, retainers, collets, lifters, timing set)
-Full dynamic balance
-MSD 8350 read to run dissy and coil
-Bolt-on 1.73 yella rockers
-Running PULP

Next i am looking at what intake gear and cooling. I was thinking;

-torque-power dual-plane high-rise manifold ( www.torque-power.com.au )
-new or reco Holley 750 vac ( Hume reco's any good? )
-Aussie desert cooler 3 Row, Triple Flow radiator for $416
- Water pump? going mech this time. was thinking an New Alloy from KB Engine parts ( Just Parts ) for $99.... anyone got a good cheap store?
- Fuel pump? same again, KB Engine for $59 mech
- Oil pump STD KB engine $52

*Can you guys tell me what you think of those choices and some alteratives etc. Is the 750cfm to big? was thinking of a 650cfm...

*Also is the aussie cooler good value for the money?

The car is a daily driver, torque between 2000 - 5500rpm. want it to go hard off the mark but to highway able.
-Runs a 4Spd borgy single rail and STD diff of 2.73 i think..

*I will be using a redline single plane until i get the manifold i finally choose. Was originally going edelbrock performer... borrowing the redline because the torque-power is about $750, performer is $285. big jump worth it?

* For the carby should i go new or reco? and size? are hume carbs ok? or something from californiaspeedsupplies.com.au maybe? not sure whats best here

last but not least can someone do an engine number check and give me some details on whats its from. I had done this but forgot the info. thanks lots guys
Engine Num: JG35RJ36542K

Thankyou guys
p.s. how will this cam go?
cheers :) can't wait to get it going

shaynet

There are others on here who can more ably answer your specific questions than me. But I can tell you that the diff ratio will be a thorn in your side around town. It will be good for economy on the highway, but a real slug out of the hole. Once you get it going, it will progressively wind up and go forever. This is because you are running a manual in front of an auto diff if its 2.73 (or 2.77 it should be)

With the same gearbox & diff combo, my mild 351 would pull 90kph in 1st, 130 in 2nd, 180 in 3rd and 225 in 4th (by the tacho - speedo only goes to 200). I have now replaced these with toploader and 3.5 geared 9".
Now its a bullet off the mark, but doing 3100rpm @ 110kph.

As a daily driver. I think 3.00 to 1 OR 3.25 to 1 ratio would be ideal

__________________
The cop said "Do you know why I pulled you over". I said " Well, that all depends on how long you have been following me!"

brenx

I personally think that the comp maybe a tad high for a hyd cam. What compression does the cam manufacturer suggest. Usually I would consider 10:1 plenty with a hyd cam as their isn't enough overlap to soak up the compression. Trying it won't hurt either. It may work? You can run 10.5:1->11:1 on a hyd but it has to be big (not off the shelf usually).

Won't net you high hp figures but the torque will be nice. Good choice. I'd like to see how these compare to the wieand though.

As good as a new one.

Personally I couldn't justify the $. A 3 core from you local radiator place will cost you around $300 and do the same job.

Sounds about right. Try http://www.vpwmailorder.com you may get a cheaper price?

If your not going above 5800rpm? It shouldn't lean out on you. Otherwise a 90gph from http://www.superplus.com.au will suit @ $85 roughly.

Sounds about right. My high vol one cost $56 4 years ago. Nice to see they aint changed much.

Depends on whether your going vac sec or not. I'd be trying a) 650DP and/or a 750 vac sec.

As above I have no drama's with my 4 core non-aussie desert cooler radiator and I am sure other people here aren't running them either. A standard 3 core is usual plenty.

As shaynet stated a 3.23 bw would be better suited. A 3.5 at worst.

You'd have nicer torque curve with the TP but the edelbrock performs well in the rpm range your talking anyway. If you can justify th $ to yourself or your Mrs? Go for it

All depends on how much $ your wallet supports. New is nice but reco does the job just the same.

Most of the ID sites have falled off the face of the earth for some reason. So can't hepl with the number. As shaynet stated. The diff will kill it.

Brenden

__________________
XB Fairmont (street car) 11.07@123.02mph.

pracy

ok thanks guys for replying...
-Shaynet i am staying with this diff only until it blows then i am going for a Disc brake 9" LSD 3.25 gears. thanks for the advise

-Brenx i agree about the CR, but as its a 2v closed chamber on the 351 i couldn't help it. Crow recommend 10.5:1 for that cam. will be using PULP to avoid pinging.

- i will use the redline for now and save for the TP unless i decide just for the performer..
- if Hume are ok, i will be using a reco 750 vac.
- i will go the 90gph fuel pump. i dont wanna go lean... thank you :)
- waterpump, i will check vpw and look at their prices.
- just go full std oil pump?
- desert cooler not worth it. hmmmm. it that case just a local made one or from VPW maybe? anyone had experience with aussie desert cooloers and if they are worth it?

i am getting low on my budget though :) hehehe

anyone got something on that engine number?
thanks guys....

brenx

Clevo's run too much oil pressure as there is. So a stock pumps fine. Hence why you can get restrictor kits. A stock pump will pump all the oil to the heads and leave nothing @ the crank.

My mate runs a 3 core desert cooler in his XY. I cools no better than what a 2-3-4 core stock radiator will do when using the appropriate clevo thermostat. Quite often parts shops give you a windsor thermostat which isn't long enough for use in a clevo. It works sort of but not properly. 9 times out of 10 an overheating issue is a) blocked radaitor core b) incorrect thermostat use c) incorrect choice of thermofan.

Go see your local radiator fitter and supply them yours and they'll fit a 3 or 4 core to it. 4 core is expensive though, about $600 from memory.

A stock 7 blade fan on a clevo cools very well.

If the cam reckons it needs 10.5:1 there should be sufficient overlap and it shouldn't ping on 98 octane fuel. Which is a good thing.

Brenden

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XB Fairmont (street car) 11.07@123.02mph.

JG33PY

JG35RJ36542K= fairmont wagon built sept 1975.

pracy

cool thanks Brenden.
STD oil pump it is. Should i look at a restrictor kit for this build?

thanks nak302 :)
fairmont wagon built sept 1975, this would be what type of car? XA?
EDIT; ok so the motors out of an XB Falcon wagon.
XB series 1973 - 1976.

brenx

Shouldn't need restrictors as 5500rpm isn't beyond the realms of safe. If you were going 6000rpm I'd say yup, throw them in.


Brenden

__________________
XB Fairmont (street car) 11.07@123.02mph.

pracy

well cam runs out at 5200 so i am guessing redline is around 5800, 6000 MAX.
also only 2 bolt bottom end so i dont think i will ever see 6000rpm...
still ok?...

brenx

shouldn't be an issue. I rev higher and harder with a 2 bolt bottomend everyone assumes they are weak but they ain't. I know of a 2 bolt clevo thats going to be reving to at least 8000rpm shortly.

Brenden

__________________
XB Fairmont (street car) 11.07@123.02mph.