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gear drive

3K views 17 replies 7 participants last post by  benXaGt 
#1 ·
My car sounds like the gear drive is about to die is it hard to change it to rollermaster dual timing chains?
 
#2 ·
benXaGt said:
My car sounds like the gear drive is about to die is it hard to change it to rollermaster dual timing chains?
Mate..........mine sounded bad a few months back and I'm glad I changed it when I did..........the gear teeth faces were all pitted and getting destroyed.

Changing to a Rollmaster chain is simple.........and a good choice of brand there. Get the Rollmaster with the 9 keyway slots.....same price, but more options for tuning if needed later.

You'll need a few tools to make it easy: Crank balancer puller, gear puller, torque wrench, gaskit scraper and a fat tube of high temp engine gaskit sealer (red stuff). You'll also need a gaskit kit after removing the timing cover and water pump.

Drain radiator
Take off belts & water pump
Remove crank pully & harmonic balancer
Remove mechanical fuel pump if you have one
Pry off timing cover

DON'T DROP ANY BITS INTO THE SUMP!!

Refit crank bolt and rotate engine intil the two dots line up on crank and cam cogs. (ie: crank dot @ top 12 o'clock and cam dot at bottom 6 o'clock)

Slide out the dual idler gears.
Undo cam retaining bolt and remove top gear (wiggles off)
Use gear puller to remove crank sprocket.

AVOID MOVING THE CRANK/CAM WITH gears/chain off.

The new chain set will have to slide on all together. Set the sprockets so the dots line up and then slide on. You may just need to tweek the crank a "millifart" left or right using a socket on the crank bolt so the sprockets slide on. IF you need to tweek it left, the bolt may just come undone insted of moving the crank. A crank socket can help here if you can borrow/buy one.

Refit cam retaining bolt and crank balancer and these will push the chain into its seated position (mainly crank sprocket). Do them up evenly and slowly so as not to bend anything. Then pull the balancer off again to allow fitting of the timing cover.

Instead of using a new rubber front sump seal, I just clean the sump area and timing cover VERY well with parts cleaner, then fill that fat groove on the timing cover with gaskit sealer and put a fat bead along the sump and up into the cracks. Let it go a little tacky before refitting.

Personally I perfer to let it all set for 24hrs before starting it up. You'll enjoy the quiet bliss of that chain :hy:

edit: I recall having to grind bits off my gear puller arms so they could fit behind the gears and get a good bite. There's not much room behind the gears.
 
#7 ·
Yer mine used to just tick when idling now it makes real bad noises around 1000-2000 rpm, ill let you no what type it is when i get it out (been in for 6 months now) the bloke who owned it put it in before me. i think the ticking was the gear actually hitting the timing cover and now its probably all loose.
 
#8 ·
TruBlu351 said:
Mate..........mine sounded bad a few months back and I'm glad I changed it when I did..........the gear teeth faces were all pitted and getting destroyed.

Changing to a Rollmaster chain is simple.........and a good choice of brand there. Get the Rollmaster with the 9 keyway slots.....same price, but more options for tuning if needed later.

You'll need a few tools to make it easy: Crank balancer puller, gear puller, torque wrench, gaskit scraper and a fat tube of high temp engine gaskit sealer (red stuff). You'll also need a gaskit kit after removing the timing cover and water pump.

Drain radiator
Take off belts & water pump
Remove crank pully & harmonic balancer
Remove mechanical fuel pump if you have one
Pry off timing cover

DON'T DROP ANY BITS INTO THE SUMP!!

Refit crank bolt and rotate engine intil the two dots line up on crank and cam cogs. (ie: crank dot @ top 12 o'clock and cam dot at bottom 6 o'clock)

Slide out the dual idler gears.
Undo cam retaining bolt and remove top gear (wiggles off)
Use gear puller to remove crank sprocket.

AVOID MOVING THE CRANK/CAM WITH gears/chain off.

The new chain set will have to slide on all together. Set the sprockets so the dots line up and then slide on. You may just need to tweek the crank a "millifart" left or right using a socket on the crank bolt so the sprockets slide on. IF you need to tweek it left, the bolt may just come undone insted of moving the crank. A crank socket can help here if you can borrow/buy one.

Refit cam retaining bolt and crank balancer and these will push the chain into its seated position (mainly crank sprocket). Do them up evenly and slowly so as not to bend anything. Then pull the balancer off again to allow fitting of the timing cover.

Instead of using a new rubber front sump seal, I just clean the sump area and timing cover VERY well with parts cleaner, then fill that fat groove on the timing cover with gaskit sealer and put a fat bead along the sump and up into the cracks. Let it go a little tacky before refitting.

Personally I perfer to let it all set for 24hrs before starting it up. You'll enjoy the quiet bliss of that chain :hy:

edit: I recall having to grind bits off my gear puller arms so they could fit behind the gears and get a good bite. There's not much room behind the gears.

thanks for the info mate much appreciated
 
#9 ·
Yer i got half of it out today its a jp peformer 5703, i dont have a gear puller so i have to get one so i can take the lower gear off. While im at it im draining the oil and cleaning the plugs, changing the radiator liquid, and ive got a new oil filter to put on, also i have to check the spark plugs and give them a clean if need be.
 
#11 ·
benXaGt said:
Yer i got half of it out today its a jp peformer 5703, i dont have a gear puller so i have to get one so i can take the lower gear off. While im at it im draining the oil and cleaning the plugs, changing the radiator liquid, and ive got a new oil filter to put on, also i have to check the spark plugs and give them a clean if need be.
Mine was a JP Performance gear drive too! Hmmmm.

A lot of engine builders don't recommend them for the street anyway. They don't handle a lot of mileage......10,000 k's.
 
#14 ·
Rhett said:
I was thinking of recording the blower sound from a Top Doorslammer, then replaying it on my car's stereo. Gotta get that lovely whine from somewhere!
I started my car up for the first time after fitting the gear drive and it sounded as quiet as a mouse.

No one told be that some gear drives come in "quiet" versions. Most disappointed.
 
#15 ·
I had a set of JP Dual Idlers in my engine for 7 years and never had a problem with them until I pulled the motor down and noticed that one whole set of gears was totally destroyed.
I will go back to gear drives again, they sound tough and never had an issue with timing for the 7 years they were in.
The car done more than 10000ks and it got the ass flogged out of it everytime it was driven
 
#16 ·
I also have a JP gear drive that only lasted about a year. The washers that run next to the idler gears got chewed up and ended up in sump. I didn't even know anything was wrong until I pulled it apart for a cam change. I think I will go for a rollmaster.
 
#17 ·
hate to put a dampner on things but i've had bad luck with getting timing gears and sprockets off the crank, 1 which was still the factory sprocket took 28tonnes in a press, the whole press came off the floor when the pressure finally moved it. a word of advice. use a high quality hydraulic puller or hav 1 handy incase it doesnt come first time. dont use heat (quickest way to crack a crank). gud luck, i know i could hav done wif sum on a couple of occasions.
 
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