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Old 10-16-2005, 01:24   #1 (permalink)
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gear drive

My car sounds like the gear drive is about to die is it hard to change it to rollermaster dual timing chains?
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Old 10-16-2005, 01:52   #2 (permalink)
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Re: gear drive

Quote:
Originally Posted by benXaGt
My car sounds like the gear drive is about to die is it hard to change it to rollermaster dual timing chains?
Mate..........mine sounded bad a few months back and I'm glad I changed it when I did..........the gear teeth faces were all pitted and getting destroyed.

Changing to a Rollmaster chain is simple.........and a good choice of brand there. Get the Rollmaster with the 9 keyway slots.....same price, but more options for tuning if needed later.

You'll need a few tools to make it easy: Crank balancer puller, gear puller, torque wrench, gaskit scraper and a fat tube of high temp engine gaskit sealer (red stuff). You'll also need a gaskit kit after removing the timing cover and water pump.

Drain radiator
Take off belts & water pump
Remove crank pully & harmonic balancer
Remove mechanical fuel pump if you have one
Pry off timing cover

DON'T DROP ANY BITS INTO THE SUMP!!

Refit crank bolt and rotate engine intil the two dots line up on crank and cam cogs. (ie: crank dot @ top 12 o'clock and cam dot at bottom 6 o'clock)

Slide out the dual idler gears.
Undo cam retaining bolt and remove top gear (wiggles off)
Use gear puller to remove crank sprocket.

AVOID MOVING THE CRANK/CAM WITH gears/chain off.

The new chain set will have to slide on all together. Set the sprockets so the dots line up and then slide on. You may just need to tweek the crank a "millifart" left or right using a socket on the crank bolt so the sprockets slide on. IF you need to tweek it left, the bolt may just come undone insted of moving the crank. A crank socket can help here if you can borrow/buy one.

Refit cam retaining bolt and crank balancer and these will push the chain into its seated position (mainly crank sprocket). Do them up evenly and slowly so as not to bend anything. Then pull the balancer off again to allow fitting of the timing cover.

Instead of using a new rubber front sump seal, I just clean the sump area and timing cover VERY well with parts cleaner, then fill that fat groove on the timing cover with gaskit sealer and put a fat bead along the sump and up into the cracks. Let it go a little tacky before refitting.

Personally I perfer to let it all set for 24hrs before starting it up. You'll enjoy the quiet bliss of that chain

edit: I recall having to grind bits off my gear puller arms so they could fit behind the gears and get a good bite. There's not much room behind the gears.
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Old 10-16-2005, 23:41   #3 (permalink)
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Re: gear drive

What brand geardrive's you guy's having trouble with? My new engine has a Milodon single idler.
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Old 10-16-2005, 23:56   #4 (permalink)
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Re: gear drive

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Originally Posted by azza
What brand geardrive's you guy's having trouble with? My new engine has a Milodon single idler. AZZA
Can you hear it?
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Old 10-16-2005, 23:59   #5 (permalink)
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Re: gear drive

No Rhett my engine is not installed yet but wanted to know what brand's you guy's are using and having problem's with.
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Old 10-17-2005, 00:10   #6 (permalink)
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Re: gear drive

I've heard (excuse the pun), that the single idlers are a lot smoother and don't have the harmonic problems associated with dual idler units (and you can hardly hear them).
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Old 10-17-2005, 02:00   #7 (permalink)
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Re: gear drive

Yer mine used to just tick when idling now it makes real bad noises around 1000-2000 rpm, ill let you no what type it is when i get it out (been in for 6 months now) the bloke who owned it put it in before me. i think the ticking was the gear actually hitting the timing cover and now its probably all loose.
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Old 10-17-2005, 02:48   #8 (permalink)
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Re: gear drive

Quote:
Originally Posted by TruBlu351
Mate..........mine sounded bad a few months back and I'm glad I changed it when I did..........the gear teeth faces were all pitted and getting destroyed.

Changing to a Rollmaster chain is simple.........and a good choice of brand there. Get the Rollmaster with the 9 keyway slots.....same price, but more options for tuning if needed later.

You'll need a few tools to make it easy: Crank balancer puller, gear puller, torque wrench, gaskit scraper and a fat tube of high temp engine gaskit sealer (red stuff). You'll also need a gaskit kit after removing the timing cover and water pump.

Drain radiator
Take off belts & water pump
Remove crank pully & harmonic balancer
Remove mechanical fuel pump if you have one
Pry off timing cover

DON'T DROP ANY BITS INTO THE SUMP!!

Refit crank bolt and rotate engine intil the two dots line up on crank and cam cogs. (ie: crank dot @ top 12 o'clock and cam dot at bottom 6 o'clock)

Slide out the dual idler gears.
Undo cam retaining bolt and remove top gear (wiggles off)
Use gear puller to remove crank sprocket.

AVOID MOVING THE CRANK/CAM WITH gears/chain off.

The new chain set will have to slide on all together. Set the sprockets so the dots line up and then slide on. You may just need to tweek the crank a "millifart" left or right using a socket on the crank bolt so the sprockets slide on. IF you need to tweek it left, the bolt may just come undone insted of moving the crank. A crank socket can help here if you can borrow/buy one.

Refit cam retaining bolt and crank balancer and these will push the chain into its seated position (mainly crank sprocket). Do them up evenly and slowly so as not to bend anything. Then pull the balancer off again to allow fitting of the timing cover.

Instead of using a new rubber front sump seal, I just clean the sump area and timing cover VERY well with parts cleaner, then fill that fat groove on the timing cover with gaskit sealer and put a fat bead along the sump and up into the cracks. Let it go a little tacky before refitting.

Personally I perfer to let it all set for 24hrs before starting it up. You'll enjoy the quiet bliss of that chain

edit: I recall having to grind bits off my gear puller arms so they could fit behind the gears and get a good bite. There's not much room behind the gears.

thanks for the info mate much appreciated
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Old 10-18-2005, 02:30   #9 (permalink)
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Re: gear drive

Yer i got half of it out today its a jp peformer 5703, i dont have a gear puller so i have to get one so i can take the lower gear off. While im at it im draining the oil and cleaning the plugs, changing the radiator liquid, and ive got a new oil filter to put on, also i have to check the spark plugs and give them a clean if need be.
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Old 10-18-2005, 17:13   #10 (permalink)
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Re: gear drive

To my understanding it is very hard to wear out a gear drive,so it has to be a installation issue.
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