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Originally Posted by northiam
Should I pour fliud directly into convertor before sliding it on?
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I usually try to add at least a quart of ATF directly into the torque converter and then, with the nose of the transmission pointing down, slip on the torque converter.
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Originally Posted by northiam
Can I and should I add the full charge of trans fliud as it needs to be lubricated on intitial cam break in?
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Add the recommended total fluid for the transmission less what you put into the converter. It won't hurt it if it is somewhat low, but definitely fill it to spec before test driving it. If it won't all go into the pan, don't worry about it. Check it again once the engine is running fine without needing careful monitoring and add up to where it should be in terms of volume of fluid. You'll need to later check it per its requirements after the break-in is completed. You should be fine to run it it even two quarts low as long as you're not putting a load on it, you're not going to hurt it. Just be sure to check for leaks during run in.
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Originally Posted by northiam
Should I start the engine with out a thermostat for the lowest possible temperature?
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I don't think that it is a good idea unless you have a restrictor plate to use in place of the thermostat. Just be sure to fill the block with coolant before you install the thermostat.
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Originally Posted by northiam
I was considering priming the engine by rotating the oil pump drive thru the dizzy hole with a 5/16 driver in the drill counter clockwise??
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Definitely pre-oil the engine! You don't need to run it very long really. A couple of minutes is typically fine. I usually go for about 2 minutes and stop for about 5 minutes then another 2 minutes and then put the distributor in.
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Originally Posted by northiam
What about fuel its going to take a while to get petrol to fill the carb and fuel pump as they are both new! Should I fill the float bowls thru the holley inspection holes maybe to aid a quick start up?
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You can fill the bowls just as easily by pouring a bit of fuel down the vent tubes and won't have to worry about how to get petrol into a right-angle location. All you need is enough to run for a few seconds and the fuel pump will begin filling the bowls on its own. About 150ml in each is enough I reckon.
Another easy to do trick is when you have the typical dual feed Holley with a 1-into-2 style fuel line, simply take a piece of (~20-30cm) rubber hose and slip it over the end of it and use a small funnel to fill it. Be sure to drap plenty of old towels/grease rags around the entire area to catch any spilled fuel and get them well out of the area before firing the engine.
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Originally Posted by northiam
Ive molyed the cam and lifters just worried about cam break in..
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I usually use either Red Line or Royal Purple break-in lube mixed in with the oil. Then, ensure that your ignition timing is correct and that the firing order is proper. Fire it up and run it up to 2000 RPM for 20 minutes. I keep a weed/bug sprayer filled with water to cool down the radiator if it gets too warm. Ignition timing can easily make it run too hot, so keep an eye on it. I like to have my distributor wrench, a screwdriver (for the throttle stop set screw to run up the idle) and a few towels to use to dowse any quickly backfires just in case. I also usually hook up my timing light before starting it up so that I can check/tune the timing to about 29-31* during run-in. I don't like to use too much advance and at this point, it doesn't matter if it isn't making peak power, we just want to be sure that the cam break-in goes properly.
If you haven't already checked your valve lash, you will want to be at zero lash for a hydro cam and per recommended cold settings on solid cams.
Check your plug gap, too. I start off with .035" gap even if I'm running an MSD.
If your throttle stop screw on the carburetor won't idle up to 2000, a bit of string or wire to tie it open will do the job.
I usually put a fire extinguisher nearby just in case a fuel line leaks or something else similarly bad happens on new start ups.
It really helps to have a mate around to turn on/off the ignition in such situations. An alternative is to place a cut-off switch inline with your coil.
Another useful tid bit is to be sure to clean up around the entire area before starting it. This way if you need to bounce around the front of the car quickly, you won't be stepping on or tripping over things when you're trying to hurry.
Start it with the air cleaner lid off but the base on, if possible. Then just replace the lid when you get it up and running at proper break-in RPM. It will quiet the underhood area down so that you can listen to everything else going on.
Dry up any fluids around the car/ground before starting it up so that you can easily tell if there are any new drips.
Have plenty of light and a small flashlight to check harder to see areas like the oil pressure sending unit.
I usually direct a large floor fan about two meters in front of the car during run-in. It helps keep me cooler too and I can move it up close to the radiator once I'm confident that nothing bad is happening.
:davis:
Thanks for the advice is sounds pretty stressful times are ahead plenty of coffee and cigarettes are also in order (fire plan)
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