72 xa coupe

just wondering what someone should ask for a pair of unmolested never recoed 4v closed chamber heads with some valve reccession but did come off a running engine.

reason for asking is i have had a set offered to me but i am not sure if what he wants for them is to high or a good price bearing in mind the need for new valves, seats, springs, collets,retainers.

any recommendations in regard to price would be appreciated.

(being that they are unmolested it is very tempting to grab them for a build i am doing as no one has had a chance to stuff them yet).

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the ONE thing i know for sure is: no matter how big and nasty YOUR CAR is, someone always has one thats BIGGER and NASTIER. build a bridge and get over it i did.

brenx

I've heard around $600 is the going price for set of 4v cc heads.

Brenden

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XB Fairmont (street car) 11.07@123.02mph.

russxr67

Brendan,if you know where to get a set of 4vcc heads for that price let me know please.I think this is way off the mark.The going rate for a set of unmolested heads would be in the vicinity of 1200 bucks. I made some enquiries recently and found you could get sets cheaper but like everything else in life you get what you paid for.I opted out of buying a top set for 1300 bills because I figured by the time youfactored in reconditioning,possibly milling for screw in studs,unleaded seats etc the heads would almost owe you what a set of alloys are worth,so it just wasn,t justifiable in my case.The alloys will save you a ton of weight and your not dealing with a 30 year old casting that may have flaws.

xdclevo

One of my mates is 4v crazy. He is allways trying to buy them. He even buys ones that are damaged and have the valve guide bosses busted. He now has lots of sets, but has lots of projects on the go too. A good set can definately go for way more than $600.

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10.70 @ 125.00 on the black fun top
408 Cube Cleveland.

Rhett

Leave them alone and put the money into doing up a set of 302 2Vs. A much better choice for a tuff street engine, unless you want to hi-port a set of 4Vs and head above 8000 rpm. 4Vs are a waste of time on the street.

Rhett

brenx

The magic word "around". I've seen quite a few 4V CC heads sold for around the $600 mark. For those kind of $ your are looking to reco them anyway. I've also seen them sell for upwards of the $600 mark but they require minimal or no work. I've also seen 2V heads sell for upwards of $600. Dearest set of 2V's I've seen sell was for just a tad over $2400. I sold the 2V's that I ran the 12.95 with a stuff auto for $600 bare. The new owner knows what they are capable of. My 2V's cost me $250 in absolutely buggered form. I spent $3700 to completely finish/accesorise them. My bad

You just have to be in the right place at the right time. A $600 set of 4V cc heads I personally wouldn't call a bargin. As the $ required to get them upto scratch is better spent on alloy heads. The uninformed have no idea alloy heads are available though. So $ can be dragged from their pockets. All depends on what class you drag race in. If you drag race? Some class's won't allow alloy.

I personally wouldn't be slightly interested in 4V's. I've seen the light with alloy heads and will never go back. I did research 4V's prior to my alloy head purchase though as I wasn't aware of any other head that would suit my needs.

The moral is :They are only worth what someone is willing to pay regardless of what they are. The beauty is some owners of 4V engines don't know what they have got in their possesion. So things sell at bargain prices when your in the right place at the right time.

Brenden

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XB Fairmont (street car) 11.07@123.02mph.

Rhett

Brenden

I think you mentioned in another thread that the alloys have been a bit of a pain to fit, where irons will bolt straight on. What did you mean?

brenx

Exactly that. Manifolds and extractors are loads of fun to fit. They require modification and/or spacers etc to work.

With cast iron heads everything just bolts up and works.

[edit] What I find funny is I was told nah with this brand ******* head you don't require that. Even from the manufacturer! Yet I see them having exactly the same issues I had. Well you can lead a horse to water but some just want to learn the hard way unfortunately. Hilarous indeed

Brenden

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XB Fairmont (street car) 11.07@123.02mph.

Rhett

I wasn't sure if you were referring to mounting points for alternator brackets, power steering, air-con brackets, etc. I wouldn't have guessed that you were talking about basics like manifolds and headers.

If you are using the CHI 3Vs, I think I recall an advert/article saying that they were a simple bolt on and designed to accept all common manifolds and headers. Maybe you're not that common? It's a pity because I was looking at going that way in the future too, as their flow figures from a stock casting appeared very impressive. I hope that information isn't also misleading as in regard to their compatibility statements.

brenx

I can tell you both manufactures require it. Doesn't matter which way you go. Technically extractors do bolt up. Just they foul the chassis in an unmodified form. As for manifolds they leave you with a massive gap between the block (front and back) and manifold.

Aircon/alt/power steer all bolt on as per factory.

Brenden

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XB Fairmont (street car) 11.07@123.02mph.