fat071

How you all going,
I'm building a burnout car and wondered if by grouting the block half way up the welsh plugs would keep it cooler than not doing it. Some engine builders i've spoke to say that its a good idea others don't. Also i'll be running 2 x 3-core radiators plumbed together and ef thermo's. Its a standard bore 302 585" lift cam, mild port heads running pulp, 780cfm holley,standard manifold, auto is full man c4 no stall, diff is 2:72 lsd, all this in an XF falcon. I need it to stay cool for at least 8 mins @ 4000 rpm in top gear for what i want to acheive.
Any coments will be great.

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Red04VXE

Grout will keep coolant cool, oil hotter, C4 wont last, Go Davies Craig EWP with controller, Talk to you at ya Show if ya want. RED..........

LTD351V2

run an oil cooler and a glide.

davis

Not to be contradictory, Red, but I don't see any reason why the C4 won't last. A burnout car is basically a "no load" situation. Without hard pounding on the C4, what is to fail, especially at 4000 RPM? Perhaps you're thinking of a true racer?

IMO, block filler does nothing to lend toward cooling. It only serves to reduce the capacity of the cooling system and stiffen the block. I definitely think that a 1/2 or even 2/3rds fill will work fine with an adequate cooling system.

To give some modicum of comparison, my 600+ HP Clevo stroker uses a 1/2 fill with a Sirocco radiator mounted horizontally with a pair of 12" pullers. I can make hot laps all day long without overheating using a 190F* thermostat. That is with an electric waterpump drive, which is very slow compared to a belt driven pump. However, I usually have to fill the fuel tank every other pass, so I tend to run the waterpump and the fans while the engine is off during refueling. It only takes about 5 minutes for the water temperature to drop to 140*F even in relatively warm weather over 95*F.



It should stay cool during the burnout passes with enough air flow through the radiator. Burnout cars tend not to go very fast for the first several dozen feet. That means no real air flow through the radiator except what is provided by the fan. Mount some serious electric fans. Look for a minimum of 1100-1300 CFM per fan. Run an alternator and they will spin well and keep the air flowing through the radiator.

Do NOT use an open air cleaner. Duct the air cleaner such that it receives only cooler air from outside of the vehicle and so that it does not suck up heated air off of the radiator and everything else that is hot under the hood.

A burnout car is not going to be pulling any kind of serious load, so it shouldn't cost a lot of heat to operate. However, another possibility to consider is using methanol, which will run very much cooler on hot/warm/medium days or not at all on colder days.


:davis:

xdclevo

I wouldn't of thought you could manitain a burnout in top gear at only 4000rpm? I know i could at 6000rpm plus, but at 4000? I'll have to try .
(davis, is there any videos of the 7.9 run?. on the wheels of corse )

Red04VXE

Well if a burnout is not a serious load why is doing a decent one so harsh on a car. And the So Called C4 experts in Australia are just that, So called cause thats what they're Calling themselves So, not when it comes down to track performance.