Alright, I have put a 302 into an XE that I obtained, now I have replaced ignition components (coil, dizzy, points) and worked out that my 600 Holley was stuffed. So I sourced up another one to borrow until I get mine rebuilt.
Now heres the problem, at low revs (at take off) the car feels very doughy down low, and then when you accelerate and get higher up in the revs it starts to backfire, is this just a timing issue? What position should a 302 with points be in (as in degrees advanced or whatever)?
I used to have the same problem. I've taken my car off the road, but what I found was the butterfly valve was open to much idle. a mechanic set this up.
mind you i swapped 2 barrel with stock manifold for a 600vac with a performer manifold and ports on the performer where much lager, so it could of been a vacuum issue as well....
ahhh cheers for the input guys, I will check the timing, and yes it has points, it did have electronic ignition, but the module died so the only dizzy I had around was a points one, the block is originally an XC block so the older style points dizzy fits no worries..
quoting dirttracker
"16 thou gap and 8 degrees before tdc should start about anything i find"
only if the points are new or recon.(contacts filed back flat) should feeler gauges be used. otherwise use a dwell meter and set em to 28-30 degrees, if u want it a bit more accurate. not saying it wont start or run well the other way though.
if the points arnt new, they may be worn on both contacts and have an uneven surface and by using feeler gauges to set it, only the "high" points of the contacts are being set apart, which may result in the dwell being too low and if so, not enough spark will be be sent to the plugs. if ya dont have a dwell gauge, borrow one, buy one or new points and use feelers......if u want the dwell angle spot on and to get the most power to the plugs, better fuel economy, marginal but better.
possibly retarted timing. or running too rich(obvious from exhaust P.O.V) or too lean as suggested.
do u know 4 sure the coil ur using is the correct one?
whats the primarys resistance (ohms) of the coil, should be 3-4ohms for a non-ballast resistor coil, 1-1.5ohms for one for use with a ballast resistor, and a ballast resistor is approx. 1.5ohms.
if ur using a non-ballast resistor coil with a ballast resistor then not enough current will be goin through the coil, and it will be down on voltage.
ahh - cheers for the input needturbo6, the coil is the right one, its a Bosch GT40 whatever.. but the one with out the resistor in it, because the previous one didn't have that. the Points are brand spankers, another Bosch product... but I will definately check the timing tomorrow morning, the old Holley 600 vac sec was making it run rich as, it has some serious issues, the new Holley 600 vac sec that I have borrowed is fine, and the car isn't running rich really at all, well maybe a bit too lean, but I will check the timing, it could be retarded... I will let you know how I go :D
sorry i mis interpreted your 1st reply,
when u took out the previous ign setup did u remove the ballast aswell - u know what i mean (usually a ceramic white rectangular thingy) connected in series with the postive terminal of the coil
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