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help. solid engine mounts

3K views 18 replies 12 participants last post by  9psi EB 
#1 ·
hi everyone,
in going to use solid engine mounts when the engine goes back in.
what i need to know is do you still use a rubber trans mount, or do you make it solid aswell.
i know alot of people run rubber on much more powerfull engines with tie down chains, but i dont ant to go down that path again.

any suggestions????

cheers, justin.
 
#3 ·
Is there any reason to need a solid mount? I have no idea why you'd even do it. I personally never would as the rubber takes up any twist. It'll still twist with solids but it won't have any give and start breaking things.
 
#4 ·
brenx said:
Is there any reason to need a solid mount? I have no idea why you'd even do it. I personally never would as the rubber takes up any twist. It'll still twist with solids but it won't have any give and start breaking things.
its no different to using an engine plate. its not rego'd either.

im already breaking rubber engine mounts.
 
#5 ·
debacle-racing said:
hi everyone,
in going to use solid engine mounts when the engine goes back in.
what i need to know is do you still use a rubber trans mount, or do you make it solid aswell.
i know alot of people run rubber on much more powerfull engines with tie down chains, but i dont ant to go down that path again.

any suggestions????

cheers, justin.
Hi Justin, you can use solid engine mounts, but you have to keep your trans mount standard -"Rubber" to allow for drive train movement or it will break tail housings at ease, which are mainly alluminium. :priest:
 
#7 ·
debacle-racing said:
have you been down this path before?
Did alot of research and spoke to some well known drag racers :driver: that gave me the same advice, Before I went ahead with the motor plate on my own Project.
I ended up making a motor plate ,And a small back up solid mount on bell housing- just incase a tail housing failure [as per rule book] ,and a rubber tail housing mount.[standard]
 
#10 ·
silicon said:
Just cross bolt some standard rubber ones; they will stand up to lot of abuse. Will cost you less than $10 and some time. PM if you want details.
I had some engine mounts made using conveyer belt material to replace the rubbber.

They have harnesses both the blown & normally asperated engines for over 10 years.

Great compromise. , gear box mount standard.
 
#12 ·
debacle-racing said:
the mounts i have made are the standard units with the rubber removed from the top and bottom plate (messy job).
im just going to fill that with 1" steel (somehow).
do you think they will work?
I am sure they will work. But the factory put rubber there for some give and vibration damping. You will risk ripping a section of iron from the block in the long term using a solid mout.
 
#13 ·
yeah, thats why people use engine plates, it holds more of the block reducing the stress on the walls, solid mounts are going to put more stress into the block, If you put a bolt through the std rubber mounts and leave about 2-3mm of play it allows normal operation of the mount but prevents it from pulling apart, and it looks better than chain.
 
#15 ·
LTD351V2 said:
yeah, thats why people use engine plates, it holds more of the block reducing the stress on the walls, solid mounts are going to put more stress into the block, If you put a bolt through the std rubber mounts and leave about 2-3mm of play it allows normal operation of the mount but prevents it from pulling apart, and it looks better than chain.
I do what this guy does, but without the 3mm of slop in the bolts.

A strut rod is still needed if you are getting serious with the car (say, launching at 6,500rpm plus)
 
#17 ·
debacle-racing said:
launching at 5100 off trans brake.

you reckon i should ditch the solid steel engine mount deal?
I would still stick to the std mount, wilth bolts through them, but i would use a large steel washer under the bolthead/nut and under that some thin rubber matching the washers, and done up snug. This would still hold pressure on the bolts, but would still allow for some movement in the mount, without vibrating/rattling when under no load/light load. Act as the pre shockabsorber.
 
#18 ·
i have the standard engine mounts with two 5/16 high tensile bolts through them .

i have tightened them untill the nuts are just touching the mount ,( no slop but no pressure on the mount either). that way the rubber can still compress but it cannot stretch.
i use a lock nut with a tac of weld to stop them coming loose.

i did have a single larger size mild steel bolt first try and it broke the bolt.

if the bolts are done up too tight you get lots of vibrations through the car, (not nice in a street car ).

of course my car is a bit different than yours , so allowances may be required.

a strut from the shock tower to the top of the engine would proberly finish the job.

the thought of tearing a hole in the side of the block with solid mounts is a bit of a worry.
 
#19 ·
Im also running cross bolted std mounts, but i used a high tensile countersunk bolts (for clearance between the mount and chassis) and aviation grade lock nuts with about 2mm gap.

Without this, the previous engine mount broke, the bug catcher hit the bonnet and pushed it into the RH guard...
Now the bug catcher only just misses the opening in the bonnet under full load.
Also no noticable increase in vibration or anyhing like that.
 
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