Identifying Aussie Blocks - Ford Forums - Mustang Forum, Ford Trucks, Ford Focus and Ford Cars
Ford Forum Ford Forum

» Auto Insurance
» Featured Product
ยป Wheel & Tire Center

Go Back   Ford Forums - Mustang Forum, Ford Trucks, Ford Focus and Ford Cars > The Garage - Tech Forums > Engine Specific Tech > Cleveland Tech
Register Home Forum Active Topics Photo Gallery Auto Loans Garage Mark Forums Read Auto EscrowInsurance

FordForums.com is the premier Ford Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-29-2007, 13:44   #1 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 220
Identifying Aussie Blocks

OK, I'm trying to settle a debate. The question is, how do you identify an "Aussie" cleveland block cast in Australia? The options we can't eliminate are

1- Any block with a casting date after 1974 when the clevelands were discontinued in US

2- Only January 1979 cast blocks with the small distributor shaft hole and the main caps with raised rectangular pads with the smaller numbers stamped into them (rather than the older caps with the larger numbers raised out of the caps).

Nobody can find a foundary mark (eg CF, MCC like the 351M and 400's have) on any cleveland block to help. The only casting info seems to be above the starter location.

Anyone have an opinion or accurate answer to the above?

Thanks
xafalcon is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 06-29-2007, 15:50   #2 (permalink)
FF.com Administrator
 
Big Block Ford's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Posts: 4,576
Re: Identifying Aussie Blocks

The info I have is the CF (Cleveland foundary) marks may be in the lifter galley or block rear face or inside timing cover so if it has one then it is not Aussie.
The later Aussie ones had a slightly different distributor hole but it's not much different. The distributor hole (at the bottom) is smaller, so U.S. and earlier Aussie distributors won't fit without modification. The distributor hole is the same except for the hole in the block that holds the very bottom of the distributor. The diameter difference is small, like maybe 0.5mm so it would be difficult to notice.

There was a few hundred Aussie racing blocks made that had casting number XE-192540 . Much stronger with 4bolt mains.

Some have noticed casting differences which include bulges between the freeze plugs and the pain rails and an oval Ford logo to the left of the oil pressure sender. U.S. blocks may have a smaller (1") poorly defined oval there but the Aussie block oval is larger (1.5" to 2") and very well defined.

There isn't much difference between them apart from the racing block but I have heard the Aussie castings may have higher nickel content.

I'm not sure how accurate all this info is but it is stuff I have read about before.

Hope it is of some help.
__________________
Lance
71 429SCJ Mustang
Big Block Ford is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2007, 18:40   #3 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 20
Re: Identifying Aussie Blocks

Not sure about the early aussie blocks, but the Black blocks had GF cast near oil pressure port at top rear of the block, USA blocks had CF, GF=Geelong Foundry, CF=Clevo Foundry.
There also whats know as the "pillow" block that was fitted the some late XD-E,s, it has little pads on the sides of the block, instead of being flat with hollows. They also are said to have factory oil restrictors, but ive never seen it myself.
XEesp351 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2007, 05:36   #4 (permalink)
V8 man
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 73
Re: Identifying Aussie Blocks

Quote:
Originally Posted by XEesp351
Not sure about the early aussie blocks, but the Black blocks had GF cast near oil pressure port at top rear of the block, USA blocks had CF, GF=Geelong Foundry, CF=Clevo Foundry.
There also whats know as the "pillow" block that was fitted the some late XD-E,s, it has little pads on the sides of the block, instead of being flat with hollows. They also are said to have factory oil restrictors, but ive never seen it myself.
The early Australian cast cleveland blocks with the square still had the CF markings up near the oil pressure port..
gs1973 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2007, 01:03   #5 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 220
Re: Identifying Aussie Blocks

Thanks guys. The block I'm working on doesn't have any CF (or GF) cast up by the oil pressure sender. I thoroughly checked it over - in the lifter gallery, timing gear area and of course the oil sender area. Nothing.

The CF, is it cast like on a 351M/400 block with a big C with an F inside it?

I thought this was going to be an easy answer for someone, but it's turning out to be typically Ford with no simple answer.

Any further info would be appreciated.

Cheers
Tristram
xafalcon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2007, 20:36   #6 (permalink)
Hotrod Drag & Street Car
 
cjperformance's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 234
Re: Identifying Aussie Blocks

very simple answer. any clevo block cast in us will have a us part number, eg. DO D1 D2 D3 will be the prefix, the rest are all aussie cast.
cjperformance is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2007, 03:37   #7 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 220
Re: Identifying Aussie Blocks

OK, I've checked a few more blocks. Two definite aussie blocks (30th and 31st Jan 1979 cast date) both have CF (not GF) up by the oil pressure sender. Another block cast in 1972 also has CF. All 3 blocks are D2AE's.

Maybe there just isn't an easy answer to this situation.....

Anybody know when the block casting equipment was moved from USA to Australia?
xafalcon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2007, 06:19   #8 (permalink)
Hotrod Drag & Street Car
 
cjperformance's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 234
Re: Identifying Aussie Blocks

casting of 351 clevo blocks in usa stopped late 1973, not sure what month. are you sure you are looking at a casting date because D2 stand for 1972, and a block cast in 1979 does not have a D2 prefix on it. here we go!! now im compelled to go and drag out every clevo block i have! dont be fooled by the date stamps on the timing cover face, i once worked for a company who imported loads of ford engines from the us, whenever we re-built one the boss insisted on stamping the build code and aussie engine number from a trashed aussie block on to the us blocks, he thought it made registration issues easier!! do your blocks have any thing stamped on the bellhousing face? also, looking the bellhousing face, there will be a cast lug(used at factory to support the block during machining process) sticking out from the left (aussie passenger side) at about the level of the dowel, now look on the right hand side in the same spot, do they have a lug there? if not, look closely to see if it was milled off, or was it hacksawed or groung off? let me know. cheers.
__________________
Craig Johnston.
Ford, Performance & Vintage engine specialist.
email- cjperformance@lizzy.com.au
cjperformance is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2007, 19:20   #9 (permalink)
FF.com Administrator
 
Big Block Ford's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Posts: 4,576
Re: Identifying Aussie Blocks

I think the D2 or any number cast at the start of a part casting number is the year that particular casting was started for it's intended use and that same number will be used then on until something in the cast is changed or it is made for a different vehicle use. So for instance a 5 litre block made for a Mustang may have the same casting number for a few years if still used for application but date stamps, which are hand stamped, are supposed to be correct for date of assembly.
Thats the way I understand it.
__________________
Lance
71 429SCJ Mustang
Big Block Ford is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2007, 04:48   #10 (permalink)
Hotrod Drag & Street Car
 
cjperformance's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 234
Re: Identifying Aussie Blocks

Lance you are correct there about the prefix, the suffix is what shows any casting change or modification. maybe we should be looking at the suffix instead. the reason i mentioned the cast lug at the rear of the block is that it is always left intact on a us cast block. after casting and machining at the factory in australia, that lug is milled off to give clearance for the closer and higher fitting australian exhaust manifold used to clear our steering gear. if you use a us block with the lug left on, you cannot bolt on an aussie ex manifold. (aussie extractors will fit with the lug intact.) so if the block in mention has an intack lug it is a us cast block, if the block has no lug it could be cast in us or aus! so only close inspection of the way the lug was removed will tell you where it was cast. if the lug was neatly milled off about 3 to 4 mm proud of the cast surface of the block it was either cast in aus or someone has gone to great lengths to make it look that way( the factory milling marks are quite coarse) if the lug was hacksawed or ground off it was a us block thats been modded to fit an aussie ex manifold(by the way, xwgt clevo engines had this lug ground off in australia)then again early blocks are much easier to id. i have found out that the cf on some blocks actually stands for chicago foundry. just another small trivial thing, from 1979 on they stopped cutting valve relief notches in the tops of the bores, they finally realised you only need them with the early large valve 4V heads! the block you mentioned with the xe part number is a confusing beast too! . there are three that i have come across. the one that was used in some xe falcons, it has the raised sections (pillows) between core plugs, thicker sump pan rails(casting does not recess on crankcase side of block), thicker main bearing webs and two bolt mains(similar to the early 429/460 DOVE block). the second is as the first but with 4 bolt mains and was used almost exclusively in the F350 of the era. the third is just like the others, thicker castings ect, 4 bolt mains but also has siamese cylinder bores( this is the block that was often refered to as the nascar block) we exported quite a few of these blocks along with closed chamber 2V(302clevo) heads to usa in the late 80's and early 90's to a contact we had there. as for aussie blocks having a higher nickel content, i have not heard of this(doesnt maen its not true) but in the (old) days when we used to use a boring bar to cut the cylinders oversize before honing, you could always feel and hear the different sound when boring a harder block, i never noticed this with clevos, unlike when boring some of the FE332 thru 428 blocks, some of them are hard as due to the nickel content. all this clevo research is driving me nuts but i can already see i'll be spending the whole weekend doing just this!!! cheers
__________________
Craig Johnston.
Ford, Performance & Vintage engine specialist.
email- cjperformance@lizzy.com.au
cjperformance is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Ford Forums - Mustang Forum, Ford Trucks, Ford Focus and Ford Cars > The Garage - Tech Forums > Engine Specific Tech > Cleveland Tech



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -7. The time now is 03:17.



Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.