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Old 07-02-2009, 03:54   #1 (permalink)
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jack roush manifold help

Hi all, today I tried to fit my roush manifold to my clevo and the manifold has a mil or so freeplay when it sits in the valley between the heads. It wont seal properly. I don't have a valley cover if i fitted one do you think this would eliminate this problem? Does anyone else have a roush manifold or has anyone else encountered this problem before?

Also does anyone know what I have to torque up the harmonic balancer to, and when fitting an oil pump drive does the end with the washer go up to the top end or down to the bottom end of the block?

Thanks Lee
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Old 10-07-2009, 18:38   #2 (permalink)
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Re: jack roush manifold help

Hi Lee ,

I have a Windsor Roush manifold mated to my Clevo. Was on there when i bought the engine. Works great. Not sure about your problem, maybe it has been milled too much? Ive heard you can get some plates or adaptors, but not 100% on that?

Cheers

Spaz
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Old 10-13-2009, 04:16   #3 (permalink)
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Re: jack roush manifold help

Quote:
Originally Posted by xd8you View Post
Hi all, today I tried to fit my roush manifold to my clevo and the manifold has a mil or so freeplay when it sits in the valley between the heads. It wont seal properly. I don't have a valley cover if i fitted one do you think this would eliminate this problem? Does anyone else have a roush manifold or has anyone else encountered this problem before?

Also does anyone know what I have to torque up the harmonic balancer to, and when fitting an oil pump drive does the end with the washer go up to the top end or down to the bottom end of the block?

Thanks Lee
The washer goes @ the top so your dizzy won't fall out of place if you have to pull it. Not familiar with the Roush intake. The valley pan keeps hot oil off the bottom of the intake for a cooler fuel charge. It isn't nessesary on a Funnelweb, Edelbrock air-gap type. Assuming it is alloy you probably should run a pan with a gasket on both sides of it. Alloy is a bit harder to get to seal than iron
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