Originally Posted by xdclevo
Good questions. I only have experiance with Sealed Power moly rings. The first build i did i used 22 thou top and bottom and it worked good. No blowby or oilburning at all. This 2nd build i used the same rings, but left the gaps as per box(16 thou) and have raced it hard, even in real hot conditions. Next time i will be going 20tho for a bit of safety just in case.
I would also think it better if you could leave the torqueplate on when checking ring gap. I dont know how much it would differ, but i would like to hear thoughts on that too.
I know a lot of guys running zero-gap rings. Most of them are Mopar guys running hemis and stroker 440s and they swear by them. I don't waste my time with them. They're much more expensive. I'd probably use them if I was a serious racer. I think that there is probably a bit of performance to be had from them. My idea of building performance is based on simplicity.
I don't feel that using a torque plate when fitting rings would be beneficial in an amount that outweighs the hassle. A low-cost alternative to a "home rebuilder" would be to bolt the cylinder head and measure ring gap from the bottom end. Sounds like a lot of effort to me for very questionable return on investment. If you're willing to spend the time, maybe it is worth some peace of mind, but I'm more likely to stick with the basics and not look back.