aussie 351
closed chamber 2vs
+30 flat tops
x elorator intake
holley (not sure but have new 600) and 425 impco
true roller set with 3 keyways
paw ssi cam basic spec = duration ad 308 331+514 514 lift 108 lobe centers
matching springs
anti pump lifters
ford motortsport 1.73 roller rockers
tri y headers
c4 auto not sure on t/c spec
now what should i expect from this set up?
wich keyway should i use on timing for cam? for best results as this lot is not bolted back together yet
also wich would be ideal rear end ratio its in a xy ute for fun only
all help gratefull
aussie 351
closed chamber 2vs
+30 flat tops
x elorator intake
holley (not sure but have new 600) and 425 impco
true roller set with 3 keyways
paw ssi cam basic spec = duration ad 308 331+514 514 lift 108 lobe centers
matching springs
anti pump lifters
ford motortsport 1.73 roller rockers
tri y headers
c4 auto not sure on t/c spec
Install the cam to zero. Use a degree wheel and check properly after that. If it is out, you adjust to what key you NEED by advancing or retarding. Make sure you get this correct, as it will make or break a good motor.
For a fun car, i would go around 3.7 or 3.9:1, but my fun car also runs a fair bit more cam/carb, so who knows, maybe you should go more conservative like 3.5??
thanks for reply what i dont really understand is y i have 3 keyways on bottome sprocket i know what they do but can u tell me the goods and bads about using each setting? i dont really want to pull the cover off again once set. i was also concerned imight not ave enough lift with this cam? butcan anyone give me an idea what to expect in hp and torque?
cheers
HP guess. 280 at flywheel, but i really have no idea.(cam still looks weird, low lift with huge advertised duration??)
Put the crank sprocket on the crank at the standard zero position, and then line that up with the dot on the cam sprocket. Then use a degree wheel to check if the cam is opening and closing at the exact correct times. (not 2 or 4 degrees out). If it is out, this is when you start using the crank sprocket in the different positions, so you do get the cam opening and closing at the "correct" time. If you dont know how, save a lot of time and mistakes and get someone who knows how to, and watch and learn. It is quite easy to do, but very hard to be explained correctly how to do it. Also, errors can make you change from the correct position to a totally incorrect position stuffing everthing. If all else fails, leave it at zero and 90% of the time it will be pretty close.
yea i think its awierd cam also
maybe they have given wrong numbers? if its any help heres what the cam card says
lift intake @ cam .297............@valve .514
ex @ cam .297.....................@ valve .514 rocker ratio 1.73
cam timing sae
@ .006 in open 50 btdc closes 78 abdc sae dur 308
valve lift ex 78 bbdc closes 56 atdc sae dur 314
cam timing .050 tappet lift
@ .050 intake open 8 btdc closes 36 abdc .50dur 224 lobe centers 104 atdc
ex 47 bbdc opens closes 5 atdc .50 dur 232 lobes centers 112 btdc
it came from paw in usa and is a ssi ( super stock industries) performance cam in between range 3 and 4 (4 beeing mainly race only) i think they said its more to do with the lobe centers? as most common cams are 110 and in the book this 1 is 108 allthough the card says the above??........i am confused as a baby racoon!
any of this make more sense now m8?
The reason I've reccomended a cam of that style is for LPG. Have a look at the specs i've posted up for my cam and you'll see i've just bought one with very similar specs (albiet a solid not hydraulic).
The low lift is to get as much bottom end out of it as possible, the overlap is to try and draw as much LPG into the intake as possible at high RPM... which impco 425's are notorious for running lean.
My cam has a small amount more lift and duration than yours, it heads to the dyno on Thursdayand I'll be posting the results up on Thursday night. Fingers crossed!
hi xd thanks for the input bro
welli tried to get a cam as close to 1 i was recomended but never realised this 1 was close to your recomendatyions or similar to the 1 u just got so thats a bonus! and paw came up with this its also real cheap 49 usd!!
i just spoke with them and they say its good for 2 -6k rpm rough idle :wnc:
and a good street/strip cam
needs a 2400 -2800 tc (not sure what i have could b anything)
also paw said the lift is not near as important as duration . what i dont understand tho is y 2 cams can have the same @50 duration but totally different ad duration???? is it the lobe centers that make the difference?
very much looking fwd to seeing your specs and results m8
im still on the lookout for a decent used intake
+ in the middle of trying to get some headers shipped over off another member
and thanks again for the input
what i dont understand tho is y 2 cams can have the same @50 duration but totally different ad duration???? is it the lobe centers that make the difference?
The reason is different manufactures use different lift values when calculating their adv. duration. I've even seen the same manufacturer use different values between different cams!
This is exactly why .050 was introduced as a standard, it allows you to accuratly compare different manufacturers cams.
Dont get worked up on the the 50 thou verses the advertised duration. I dont run custom ground camshafts because i know nothing solid about designing them. I only run what's proven to be successful, which may limit me. My Crane solid had a big 50 thou figure(246 deg), but small advertised duration(282 deg) Are you running a 600 vac or lpg??. I spose you will have to choose before you start. I have been assuming you will be going the 600 vac you were mentioning on your other post. If it's going to be lpg, it's another ball game that i know very little about. Just hurray up and get it flying...
Dont get worked up on the the 50 thou verses the advertised duration. I dont run custom ground camshafts because i know nothing solid about designing them. I only run what's proven to be successful, which may limit me. My Crane solid had a big 50 thou figure(246 deg), but small advertised duration(282 deg) Are you running a 600 vac or lpg??. I spose you will have to choose before you start. I have been assuming you will be going the 600 vac you were mentioning on your other post. If it's going to be lpg, it's another ball game that i know very little about. Just hurray up and get it flying...
Thats exactly why .050 is usefull. Another cam manufacturer might show adv duration of 296 (for example) but have the same .050 figure. Its all down to what height they measure their duration from. At least .050 you can compare cam a with cam b and know exactly where you stand.
As far as carpunk's fuel choice, its LPG. I assume the reference to a 600 holley was refering to the baseplate he's going to mount the impco 425 on.
hi xd well i was thinking of maybe using the 600 to see how it is for power against the impco on a similar base just cuz i have one allready what would be best base for this combo on an impco? also figured maybe run the impco then run the holley for a blast down the track but maybe can get same performance from a well set up lpg?
the cam isnt a lpg cam as such just 1 straight out the catalogue for paw and its cheap (49usd) but it was a close (ish) match to a lpg type i was told about they tell me its a good street /strip cam 2-6k rpm..................so whats the score with cam lobe centers?? iv found a few cams similar from ,,known,, brands but the c/l/c are different do the lobe center,s alter the cam character much? also whats the point of paying extra for a 3 keyway sprocket if u set it to the middle anyway? what would the efects be either way?
thanks all
Not really going to give you anywhere close to a good comparison unless you swap your cam, dizzy and fuel system at the track.
The cam you've got I would not really reccomend for petrol, though I'm sure you could use it if you were really keen. Your dizzy would need a recurve to run on LPG... that curve would not work well with petrol and of course, there's having to spend twice as much building up 2 different fuel systems to run on a decent engine because I doubt the factory gear will cope. You need to pick before you start. Changing your mind halfway would be a costly exersize.
To get the cam running in the CORRECT spot. Just remeber how many variables there are in getting that corrrect. I will list them
- Cam being machined a bit out
- Key way on the crank being machined a bit out from the factory
- The cam sprocket being machined incorrectly
- The crank sprocket being machined incorrectly
- The dowell on the cam sprocket being in the wrong spot
- The dowell on the cam itself being in the wrong spot
If any of these things is a bit out, you will need to compensate by using a different keyway on the crank sprocket. This is why you must check. When we say you must DEGREE in your cam, it means check to see if correct. If it is, you dont have to change anything.
cheers clevo that does leave a lot of room for wrong settings!
xdc m8 heres the thing yes i did buy that cam for lpg as they said at the store it matches 1 i was advised to use on lpg BUT its not sold as an lpg cam but a street/strip cam it just happens(so we think) to have the specs needed to run lpg for more power?
so apart from the dizzy curve if this is sold as a street strip cam then surely it should perform as 1 on petrol ??they dont sell lpg cams as such and if u contact p.a.w in the states they will tell u what they told me so will be very interested in your results on your new similar cam and if good maybe this cam i have would b an ideal cheap lpg cam readily available? the @ 50 dur is 224 /232 BUT what about the lobe centers?? what does this do apart from make it more or less lumpy sounding??
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