Re: Is my water pump dieing?
Hi, what you can do is go to the parts store, get the pump and gasket (usually come as one) and get a extra gasket, if your pump bearing and seal are ok and you just suspect the pump impeller, simply remove the pump and compare the impeller to what the new one is like, after all its easier to tell if or how worn it is if you know what the original shape was like. If it looks worn, replace it, if not use the spare gasket and return the pump. Usually if you tell the parts person your intentions ahead of time they dont mind at all, they'll think your wise, not cheap.
But i would also look into other things, for example, if i just did a flush and the heater wasnt working i would assume that i had a airlock in the cooling system which is almost natural after doing a flush, the quickest way to tell if you have a airlock is usually you have no or little heat from the heater, also waterpumps dont have that much force in that area, especially at idle, and the coolant isnt forced to go into the heatercore at any time, it can bypass. if it was even mild pressure, i would think it would build up at the heater valve when closed and leak or balloon a hose, so dont expect much pressure in that area when just starting up and idling a engine.
Opening up the cooling system and disconnecting the same hose you did before will bleed the airlock out eventually, but you should only hold the hose a little higher than the highest point in the cooling system, and run the car at maybe 1200 to 1400 till a steady stream on coolant comes out then reinstall hose, coolant might need to be topped up before and after.
Or disconnect that same hose, lift it up again and fill the cooling system up from there, first with the rad cap off then with it on, be patient, bubbles will rise up, keep filling from there till full then reinstall hose. if that didnt completely fill the cooling system and get rid of the airlock it probley helped and the airlock will go away soon, leave heater on for this at all times untill bleed. fill expansion tank 3/4 full, and recheck system when cold that it is. full in the rad and sufficiant in the overflow bottle. hope that helps, all those things can be checked for free.