pracy

hey,
I started pulling out my gearbox this arvo. I have removed the tail shaft, g-box x-member and I was going to just take out the box and leave the bellhousing bolted on. Just so i could get started on B&M shifter mounting up above etc...

the problem: how many bolts is there mounting the box to the bellhousing... I can see 4, but after removing them and keeping the box level with the jack its still firm in the bellhousing and not coming backwards..
A book i have mentions removing the lever from the lever housing? that didn't make much sense to me, i thought maybe they mean unbolt the selector housing 3 bolts and take the shifter out or move aside? is this done or do you just slide the shifter out the hole as the box comes out?

also a last thought, is it possible to remove a bellhousing without the weight of the g-box to help getting the top bolts?

cheers
ps. this is is my 1 car garage with about 10cm room above me using ramps and axles stands... damn beer belly

TruBlu351

Haha.....get some time up!! Those first gearbox changes are always the tuff ones!

Yep, you have all the right stuff undone. "Uncracking" the box can be a pain, if it hasn't been removed for years. The front retaining plate on the box that slides into the round hole in the back of the bellhousing can get a little tight and the input shaft can get stuck in the crank spiggot bearing.

Doing it by yourself would be quite hard......don't let the box roll onto your head. I'd give the rear extension housing a few sideways hits and the key is to wiggle the whole box out.

Be careful once the box come back about an inch as the only thing supporting the weight is the jack and "clutch disc" - don't want to damage it. Slide it out straight.

Good luck! Room is everything. I get my axle stands as high as possible, you may have to raise the car in sections a few times. Can use a block of wood on the jack if its too high - same for reaching up to the gearbox.

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XE Falcon
393 Tremec TKO 9"

brenx

4 bolts from box -> bell. You need to remove the shifter. If it still won't budge? Tilt the front of the engine up.

[edit] Yes, you can leave the bell bolted up. It's the best way. Same deal for top loaders.

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XB Fairmont (street car) 11.07@123.02mph.

crochunter

Could always use a gas axe. Nah only kidding.

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http://motorvator.7.forumer.com/

351cid

best way to remove the gear stick is to take it out from inside the car.

remove the console,
remove the rubber boot over the gear stick,
you will see a large plastic ball ? like section with flat sides that holds the shifter into the box,
you need to undo the metal lock tabs
then you can unscrew the plastic ball and remove the stick.

when you put the shifter back in later , dont strip the plastic thread.

__________________
dave
`75 XB FAIRMONT SEDAN injected 351, toplaoder, disc brake 9", factory paint+ vinyl roof.
`03 BA XLS ute - lpg, auto, lsd, acid rush paint,
WWW.sunshield.biz

pracy

Had another go at it this arvo, the shifter came out easy, and then i positioned the box of the jack and left it til my brother dropped over. 10 minutes later we had the box out and the spline looks great.

thanks for the tips guys
now whats the best way to go about removing the bellhousing?

ty

351cid

a spanner and undo the bolts.

basiclly that all thats involved.

might need to unbolt the cluch slave and let it hang,
remove the starter,
the large bolts around the top that hold it to the block ( proberly need a socket with long extentions ),
small bolts at front that hold the tin plate.( do this first ).

dont drop it on your foot.

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dave
`75 XB FAIRMONT SEDAN injected 351, toplaoder, disc brake 9", factory paint+ vinyl roof.
`03 BA XLS ute - lpg, auto, lsd, acid rush paint,
WWW.sunshield.biz

xdclevo

When bolting in the C4, it is handy to have those extensions. I use 2 long ones, a short one, the swivel and then the 5/8 socket. If you dont have, buy some elcheapos from Supercheap or similar. You will be glad you did when cursing those hard to get bolts near the starter and the one near the extracators on the passenger side..
(have you got cooler lines yet?)

TruBlu351

The flywheel bolts can be a real mongrel to undo/and tighten.....as the motor will spin! You can buy a small piece of chain and bolt one link to the flywheel where the clutch pressure plate went and then bolt another to one of the bellhousing holes. Obviously make sure your chain links fit the bigger bellhousing bolts.

One more note!.......these are all meant to make your life easy by the way - my pain for your pleasure When refitting everything its easy to pinch any wires you have at the back of the engine inbetween the bellhousing and block - can't see cause your working underneath......and then whooompa, lots of burning wires as you try and start your car!.........just tie 'em back.

__________________
XE Falcon
393 Tremec TKO 9"

351cid

thats a good trick.

sounds like someones speaking from experience. woops.

__________________
dave
`75 XB FAIRMONT SEDAN injected 351, toplaoder, disc brake 9", factory paint+ vinyl roof.
`03 BA XLS ute - lpg, auto, lsd, acid rush paint,
WWW.sunshield.biz