removing borg 4spd... best way? - Ford Forums - Mustang Forum, Ford Trucks, Ford Focus and Ford Cars
Ford Forum Ford Forum

» Auto Insurance
» Featured Product
ยป Wheel & Tire Center

Go Back   Ford Forums - Mustang Forum, Ford Trucks, Ford Focus and Ford Cars > The Garage - Tech Forums > Engine Specific Tech > Cleveland Tech
Register Home Forum Active Topics Photo Gallery Auto Loans Garage Mark Forums Read Auto Escrow

FordForums.com is the premier Ford Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 10-23-2005, 02:28   #1 (permalink)
82XE 351c
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: North Coast, NSW
Posts: 627
removing borg 4spd... best way?

hey,
I started pulling out my gearbox this arvo. I have removed the tail shaft, g-box x-member and I was going to just take out the box and leave the bellhousing bolted on. Just so i could get started on B&M shifter mounting up above etc...

the problem: how many bolts is there mounting the box to the bellhousing... I can see 4, but after removing them and keeping the box level with the jack its still firm in the bellhousing and not coming backwards..
A book i have mentions removing the lever from the lever housing? that didn't make much sense to me, i thought maybe they mean unbolt the selector housing 3 bolts and take the shifter out or move aside? is this done or do you just slide the shifter out the hole as the box comes out?

also a last thought, is it possible to remove a bellhousing without the weight of the g-box to help getting the top bolts?

cheers
ps. this is is my 1 car garage with about 10cm room above me using ramps and axles stands... damn beer belly
pracy is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 10-23-2005, 03:45   #2 (permalink)
Registered User
 
TruBlu351's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Newcastle
Posts: 2,398
Re: removing borg 4spd... best way?

Quote:
Originally Posted by pracy
hey,
I started pulling out my gearbox this arvo. I have removed the tail shaft, g-box x-member and I was going to just take out the box and leave the bellhousing bolted on. Just so i could get started on B&M shifter mounting up above etc...

the problem: how many bolts is there mounting the box to the bellhousing... I can see 4, but after removing them and keeping the box level with the jack its still firm in the bellhousing and not coming backwards..
A book i have mentions removing the lever from the lever housing? that didn't make much sense to me, i thought maybe they mean unbolt the selector housing 3 bolts and take the shifter out or move aside? is this done or do you just slide the shifter out the hole as the box comes out?

also a last thought, is it possible to remove a bellhousing without the weight of the g-box to help getting the top bolts?

cheers
ps. this is is my 1 car garage with about 10cm room above me using ramps and axles stands... damn beer belly
Haha.....get some time up!! Those first gearbox changes are always the tuff ones!

Yep, you have all the right stuff undone. "Uncracking" the box can be a pain, if it hasn't been removed for years. The front retaining plate on the box that slides into the round hole in the back of the bellhousing can get a little tight and the input shaft can get stuck in the crank spiggot bearing.

Doing it by yourself would be quite hard......don't let the box roll onto your head. I'd give the rear extension housing a few sideways hits and the key is to wiggle the whole box out.

Be careful once the box come back about an inch as the only thing supporting the weight is the jack and "clutch disc" - don't want to damage it. Slide it out straight.

Good luck! Room is everything. I get my axle stands as high as possible, you may have to raise the car in sections a few times. Can use a block of wood on the jack if its too high - same for reaching up to the gearbox.
__________________
XE Falcon
393 Tremec TKO 9"
TruBlu351 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2005, 04:28   #3 (permalink)
74 XB Fairmont
 
brenx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Cranbourne, Vic
Posts: 5,113
Re: removing borg 4spd... best way?

4 bolts from box -> bell. You need to remove the shifter. If it still won't budge? Tilt the front of the engine up.

[edit] Yes, you can leave the bell bolted up. It's the best way. Same deal for top loaders.
__________________
XB Fairmont (street car) 11.07@123.02mph.
brenx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2005, 04:29   #4 (permalink)
Registered User
 
crochunter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 828
Re: removing borg 4spd... best way?

Could always use a gas axe. Nah only kidding.
crochunter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2005, 16:30   #5 (permalink)
old B - new B
 
351cid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: sunshine coast QLD
Age: 50
Posts: 890
Re: removing borg 4spd... best way?

best way to remove the gear stick is to take it out from inside the car.

remove the console,
remove the rubber boot over the gear stick,
you will see a large plastic ball ? like section with flat sides that holds the shifter into the box,
you need to undo the metal lock tabs
then you can unscrew the plastic ball and remove the stick.

when you put the shifter back in later , dont strip the plastic thread.
__________________
dave
`75 XB FAIRMONT SEDAN injected 351, toplaoder, disc brake 9", factory paint+ vinyl roof.
`03 BA XLS ute - lpg, auto, lsd, acid rush paint,
WWW.sunshield.biz
351cid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-24-2005, 03:10   #6 (permalink)
82XE 351c
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: North Coast, NSW
Posts: 627
Re: removing borg 4spd... best way?

Had another go at it this arvo, the shifter came out easy, and then i positioned the box of the jack and left it til my brother dropped over. 10 minutes later we had the box out and the spline looks great.

thanks for the tips guys
now whats the best way to go about removing the bellhousing?

ty
pracy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-24-2005, 03:11   #7 (permalink)
old B - new B
 
351cid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: sunshine coast QLD
Age: 50
Posts: 890
Re: removing borg 4spd... best way?

a spanner and undo the bolts.

basiclly that all thats involved.

might need to unbolt the cluch slave and let it hang,
remove the starter,
the large bolts around the top that hold it to the block ( proberly need a socket with long extentions ),
small bolts at front that hold the tin plate.( do this first ).

dont drop it on your foot.
__________________
dave
`75 XB FAIRMONT SEDAN injected 351, toplaoder, disc brake 9", factory paint+ vinyl roof.
`03 BA XLS ute - lpg, auto, lsd, acid rush paint,
WWW.sunshield.biz
351cid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-24-2005, 03:48   #8 (permalink)
Registered User
 
xdclevo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Cairns
Posts: 1,946
Re: removing borg 4spd... best way?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 351cid
( proberly need a socket with long extentions
When bolting in the C4, it is handy to have those extensions. I use 2 long ones, a short one, the swivel and then the 5/8 socket. If you dont have, buy some elcheapos from Supercheap or similar. You will be glad you did when cursing those hard to get bolts near the starter and the one near the extracators on the passenger side..
(have you got cooler lines yet?)
xdclevo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-24-2005, 04:00   #9 (permalink)
Registered User
 
TruBlu351's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Newcastle
Posts: 2,398
Re: removing borg 4spd... best way?

The flywheel bolts can be a real mongrel to undo/and tighten.....as the motor will spin! You can buy a small piece of chain and bolt one link to the flywheel where the clutch pressure plate went and then bolt another to one of the bellhousing holes. Obviously make sure your chain links fit the bigger bellhousing bolts.

One more note!.......these are all meant to make your life easy by the way - my pain for your pleasure When refitting everything its easy to pinch any wires you have at the back of the engine inbetween the bellhousing and block - can't see cause your working underneath......and then whooompa, lots of burning wires as you try and start your car!.........just tie 'em back.
__________________
XE Falcon
393 Tremec TKO 9"
TruBlu351 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-24-2005, 04:18   #10 (permalink)
old B - new B
 
351cid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: sunshine coast QLD
Age: 50
Posts: 890
Re: removing borg 4spd... best way?

Quote:
Originally Posted by TruBlu351
The flywheel bolts can be a real mongrel to undo/and tighten.....as the motor will spin! You can buy a small piece of chain and bolt one link to the flywheel where the clutch pressure plate went and then bolt another to one of the bellhousing holes. Obviously make sure your chain links fit the bigger bellhousing bolts.
thats a good trick.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TruBlu351
its easy to pinch any wires you have at the back of the engine inbetween the bellhousing and block - can't see cause your working underneath......and then whooompa, lots of burning wires as you try and start your car!.........just tie 'em back.
sounds like someones speaking from experience. woops.
__________________
dave
`75 XB FAIRMONT SEDAN injected 351, toplaoder, disc brake 9", factory paint+ vinyl roof.
`03 BA XLS ute - lpg, auto, lsd, acid rush paint,
WWW.sunshield.biz
351cid is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Ford Forums - Mustang Forum, Ford Trucks, Ford Focus and Ford Cars > The Garage - Tech Forums > Engine Specific Tech > Cleveland Tech



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -7. The time now is 23:07.



Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.