Hi I need some pointers, I broke an intake valve stem on Friday when I was dicking around laying rubber in my driveway. I want to rebuild the engine in about 4 months when I can aford to do so. But in the mean time I want to just patch the problem. Can I just relace the one valve for now? where can I get just one valve and how do i replace the valve(redoing heads is unknown to me, Im a bottom end and block kinda guy)
I have found out that you can buy just 1 valve so theres that part solved, still can any one tell me how to replace it?
If you dont want to remove the head, just remove the sump, crank, rods and that one pistin, and insert the valve
Seriously, was it just the valve stem itself that broke? How, did you
drop a valve? Did it damage the heads where the valve slides?
Let me guess, stock valves and revving over 5500? Was it valve bouncing at the time too? These are good insurance things to keep in mind to avoid busting parts.
Wouldn't removing the head be 100 times easier than removing the sump and piston in the car?
I'd be pulling the head and just inspect the top of the piston - if its OK, then just do the valve. Did the valve drop into the cylinder and mash the piston, or did the valve stem seal hold it up?
Are you sure its a busted valve and not the locks or retainers failing?
So, remove the head........
With the valve stem broken, the retainer would have fallen off the top of the spring with the 2 locks lying around too (you'll see this with the rocker cover removed). This negates the requirement for a valve spring removal tool for the strip down.
Not sure if you'll need some cutting compound to seat the valve into the seat? Bueller?
Give it a thorough parts clean, insert valve, valve stem seal, spring and retainer. Squash it all down with a spring compressor tool and the insert the 2 valve locks and then release the compressor tool slowly. Refit head.
I have found out that you can buy just 1 valve so theres that part solved, still can any one tell me how to replace it?
Keita, just disregard some of the stirrers on here who have usually had one too many
before they get on here.
You will have to remove the head. after removing carby, inlet manifold, exhaust manifold, and rocker cover. When removing the rocker gear and pushrods, keep everything in the same order from front to back for re-assembly. There may be shims of different thicknesses under the rocker pedastals. You will need a breaker bar or a lenght of pipe for leverage to crack the head studs for removal. The head needs to be levered up off the locating dowels to remove it. Take it to a head re-conditioner to have the valve put in unless you know what you are doing and have a valve spring compressor.
Re-assembly is just the reverse but you should oil the thread of the head studs and tension them in the correct order. Buy a manual for guidance.
xdclevo
just how were you going to get the ring compressor up onto the bottom of the bore and slide the piston in there?
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if you just buy a valve spring compressor its pretty basic in theory. i would get some valve grind compoud from the local autoparts store and put a liberal amount on the valve and seat and slide the valve in and put the end of the valve stem in a drill and pull up gently to seat the new valve so it doenst leak. then clean the port, valve and compustion chamber before re-istalling the valve, if you decide to go this route you can ask more questiond on how to exactly do it, many on here could help you out with any questions. and anyone that tells you that using a drill doesnt work, ignore them, it works just fine. its not the 100% best route but it does get the job done. i've done it myself on different occasions and know many others that have done it aswell
if you just buy a valve spring compressor its pretty basic in theory. i would get some valve grind compoud from the local autoparts store and put a liberal amount on the valve and seat and slide the valve in and put the end of the valve stem in a drill and pull up gently to seat the new valve so it doenst leak. then clean the port, valve and compustion chamber before re-istalling the valve, if you decide to go this route you can ask more questiond on how to exactly do it, many on here could help you out with any questions. and anyone that tells you that using a drill doesnt work, ignore them, it works just fine. its not the 100% best route but it does get the job done. i've done it myself on different occasions and know many others that have done it aswell
I am not a qualified mechanic but my Dad was and he never taught me to seat valves using a drill. I doubt they would teach this method at Tech but enlighten me if they do.
As musclemustang8 says its not the 100% best route to take. I would suggest that this method could lead to damaging the valve tip and may wear the guide if pressure is inadvertantly put to one side by not keeping the drill absolutely square to the seat face.
This approach seems a bit rough and reminds me of a kid I used to know who could fix his pushbike with only two tools. An open ender and a hammer. Needless to say his bike looked like it too!
__________________
The cop said "Do you know why I pulled you over". I said " Well, that all depends on how long you have been following me!"
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