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rollmaster i need help with it

2K views 18 replies 8 participants last post by  benXaGt 
#1 ·
Ive been putting it togeather today and the lower gear wont budge any closer to the block theres about 6mm gap then i noticed a cone shapped washer on the gear drive and i was wondering if it goes in there? The top gear is all the way in and the chain is clicking on the lower gear, i think the lower gear needs to come forwards a bit any thoughts?
 
#3 ·
the cone shaped washer will go on last , before the cover plate .
helps to deflect the excess oil away from the crank seal.
 
#6 ·
benXaGt said:
The top gear is all the way in and the chain is clicking on the lower gear, i think the lower gear needs to come forwards a bit any thoughts?
There is no way the lower gear will ever need to come fwd to match up. The lower gear sets the line where the chain runs. Assuming the lower sprocket is all the way home to the crank step, it will be the cam sprocket that needs looking at. Do you have the cam thrust plate on and bolted up, and did you use the brass shim? Here is a pic of mine, not thata there is too much to see.

 
#9 ·
benXaGt said:
im ganna take it off now and take it to get the inside of the hole machined out like 1 thou so it fits better
I wouldn't do that. Find out why its not going all the way on. Take it off, and start again, and see what the interference is. Have a look at the step it seats against, and give it another go. It is meant to be very tight, so dont machine anything.
 
#11 ·
TruBlu351 said:
Did you put your harmonic balancer back on? as you tighten up the crank bolt, the balancer will push the crank sprocket on nicely.
Yep did that then i had like a 6mm gap and i eventually closed it up to about 3mm but i cant get it up further. Im going to pull it apart againg tommorow and check the crank shaft and the gear.
 
#12 ·
benXaGt said:
Yep did that then i had like a 6mm gap and i eventually closed it up to about 3mm but i cant get it up further. Im going to pull it apart againg tommorow and check the crank shaft and the gear.
Oh yer and i took the harmonic balancer off and tried to hit it with a drift but its solid.
 
#14 ·
Make sure there isn't any burs on crank from old cog as the multi key cogs(adjustable timing ones) can bite in and bur the crank.

They can get very bad to the point that your crank can fatique and snap.

Also check your key as these do wear and can cause the problem you have.
New key's are only $1-$3 and for the sake is worth doing.
Also make sure you clean key slot so the key sits all the way in(tap with a soft hammer eg copper).
Make sure the key is sitting flat and even front to rear.

Also I have seen excessive chain stretch over 6mths use and prefer to use gear drive's because of the chains stretching.
More accurate timing with gear drive.

Another benifit of the gear drive over the timing chain is it doesn't put the flex on the snout of the crank a timing chain does when you accelerate and back off due to the chain pulling tight and lifting the snout under acceleration.
I have had a snout on a hard reving 4.1 crossflow shear behind the crank timing cog because of this.

Its the same with supercharging as the belt does the same (alot of the big dollar blower set ups use a crank supports to stop this flexing)

Hope this is use full.
 
#17 ·
Ok its all back togeather now and running really good.
What ive noticed is at high rpm it isnt running bad where it was with the gear drive it seemed to run out of fuel and the car would jerk around.
No oil leaks yet comming out from the cover.
The altenator light wont go off i cant work out why. i might of killed it
 
#18 ·
benXaGt said:
Ok its all back togeather now and running really good.
What ive noticed is at high rpm it isnt running bad where it was with the gear drive it seemed to run out of fuel and the car would jerk around.
No oil leaks yet comming out from the cover.
The altenator light wont go off i cant work out why. i might of killed it
Glad to hear she's running well! Moral of the story - if it don't fit, hit it harder :hy: You put that 10 pound gimpie away!

What condition were the gear drive teeth faces?

Have you reconnected the wire to the back of the alternator? You'll have a big wire going to the battery + (probably yellow) and there will be a small one that just clips on which goes to the alternator light (normally grey/red).

You put your fan belt back on :hehe: and tightened her up?
 
#19 ·
TruBlu351 said:
Glad to hear she's running well! Moral of the story - if it don't fit, hit it harder :hy: You put that 10 pound gimpie away!

What condition were the gear drive teeth faces?

Have you reconnected the wire to the back of the alternator? You'll have a big wire going to the battery + (probably yellow) and there will be a small one that just clips on which goes to the alternator light (normally grey/red).

You put your fan belt back on :hehe: and tightened her up?

Hahaha yer i got the sledgie out and it went on first hit. how do i fix a bent crank shaft? joking guys

The gears look alright i cant see much wear/damage but there is a noticable sound and drivability difference now that the rollmaster is in.

As for the altinator its a brand new one and i had to rewire it so i might of got the teminals around the wrong way and killed the warning light sender.
 
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