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Old 06-13-2002, 06:37   #1 (permalink)
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Running in of the 351c

G'Day, I have just turned my falcon 500 XY 250 2V into a 351ci thumper. I was just wondering (since I have never even driven a motor with so much ballz) what sort of driving should I do. Its very hard not to go like the clappers. I have run in a 250 2V before, but I'm thinkin a 351 might be a little bit different. Can I give it a little bit of stick, or should I just take it easy for about 1000km ? A bit of advice might go a long way, a looonnng way. Cheers.
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Old 06-13-2002, 08:02   #2 (permalink)
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ogion

Running in generally means that you should not rev the motor too hard for the first 1000km or so.

Also, you should not sit on the one speed constantly, but vary your speed up and down without "loading up" or labouring the engine.

After 1000/1500km change the oil and filter and it should give you many years of service, depending on how hard you flog it!
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Old 06-13-2002, 09:22   #3 (permalink)
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ogion ... yeah, what shaynet said but even after 1000km take it easy on the revs till you've got 5000km on it. The motor, if it has been built properly, will give its best after 8 to 10 thousand km. This might sound like a long time to run in but if you are serious about getting 300 to 400 thousand km before the next rebuild that is how to do it - I never get less than 300,000 from a motor. When I do a new motor I drive it long distances only for the first 5,000 km - no short trips if I can help it - that's easy for me as I have a number of cars but it may not be practical for you of course if you have just the one. Good luck with the clevo mate.
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Old 06-14-2002, 03:22   #4 (permalink)
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INITIAL run in is majorly important.....

As soon as the car hits the road follow these steps....

FIND A CLEAR BIT ......

Select 2nd or third gear and accelerate to aprox 4000 rpm then take the foot off.......Progressively putting the foot down more each time........

Do this atleast 10 to 15 times.....

Does take a while

THis beds in the rings

Then cruise around the country side a bit....

once u hit 500 km change the oil.....

Drive normaly...not holding excessive revs....ie burnouts....CAMS dont like that.....

change oil again at 1500 km.....

start giving it CURRY MATE........BRORRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRROOOM.....

regards mocky.....

NEVER had a problem with that method yet....

PS dont forget the 20 mins to run the cam in previous......In neutral of corse...At 2250 rpm.....
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Old 06-14-2002, 07:12   #5 (permalink)
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Yep thats exactly what it says on the ring package. Give it heaps for short run then back off so oil sucks back up the rings,they bed in very quickly as do the cam.
The main thing is not to labour the motor,vertually drive legal..Cough!!
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Old 06-14-2002, 08:21   #6 (permalink)
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Hi Guys I beg to differ on the approach to running your motor in, piston rings require periods of high load low speed to bed in as well as a judicious use of high r.p.m
this ensures they are loaded against the bores (high gas pressure) and the high r.p.m alllows the rods to stretch which moves the ring pack further up the bore .
Simply put; run the motor in the same conditions it is likely to expect in its normal life.
As suggested earlier oil changes are important.
It`s good to hear of somebody sticking with the old Clevo
Good Luck
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Old 06-17-2002, 21:37   #7 (permalink)
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STREACH THE RODS..............Eh yeah right......

Differ to believe......

the loaded acceleration from 1500 to 4000 rpm is just that.....Remebering this is initial.....only takes about 27 kms to do this exercise.....

ALSO running in on a dyno should take place after 1500 KMS....
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Old 06-18-2002, 00:16   #8 (permalink)
Two SC 61's = trouble
 
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The bore is ruffened up like a file so the wear into each other.The reason for honeing or deglazing.They bed in real quick OR not at all..About one good heat cycle will do it..
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.
Tuned & maintained by "Peppertree Perfmormance". Dart block, Scat 4340 steel crank, Custom C.P pistons.Oliver rods.. Mal Wood twin plate clutch.. Twin SC61/2's,482 rwkw/ 645 rwhp..
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Old 06-19-2002, 02:49   #9 (permalink)
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I agree with shambles.
Run it the way it will be run in life after cam break in period (20 mins or so at fast idle)

If you are too careful with a motor in its early life the ring ridge will be cut lower in the bore. The one day you really fang it (we are talking after 10000k for example) you can break the top comp ring if it hits the ring ridge.

I have always...
1) Break in cam, shut down check for leaks etc and general state of tune if you can, as a real lean motor will overheat real fast when new and that causes damage.
2) Next day ( it usually takes me until midnight to get to the key stage regardless of when I start) I drive it a bit at all the revs its likely to see, including 6500-7000rpm if thats what its life has in store. I dont cook it however if the temp rises (and it will) I cool down on the revs and get it back again.
If the motor was put together well and all clearances are right the motor is ready to roll.
Heat and bad assembly is too blame for most new motor failures.
These days components rarely fail such as bearings etc. Its usually that the assembler didnt clearance the crank or rods and they were too tight and rotated cutting off oil flows.

One of the best ways to break in a motor if its not installed is with an engine dyno. You can keep a very close eye on everything and it wont overheat due to the massive amounts of water on hand. Worth the money if you have 5-10k in the motor.
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