I thought as much about blasting. I was only thinking about it as where I work does blasting and I could have got it done cheap. That's my goal for this whole project - "CHEAP".
I've "carefully" blasted them without problems. Afterwards, just wipe them clean with some acetone and repaint using VHT exhaust paint. When I paint extractors, I spray several very light coats. It is easy to do when you have two extractors as any V8 will have. Just want to barely hit one, switch to the other, barely hit it and by the time you're done with the second one, it will be time to go back to the first one...if not too cold outside. About 4-5 coats like that, again, just barely enough to splatter a bit of color on them, back and forth and then the last two times through just heavy enough to cover any light spots and it will keep well. Another thing that is important to do, is to carefully touch up any scraped spots made whilst installing them. Several light coats are much better than one or two heavier coats. Once completed, the finish will bake to a nice consistent finish. The paint usually lasts as long as it takes me to drop a spark plug on a primary tubing and not touch it up! I use the VHT blue, that comes out fairly close to the old Ford blue engine paint. See the photo below for a good indication.
DAvis ... now your just teasing us Aussies with that picture.. i'd give my left one for a Mustang drag car...
On topic, to save a few bucks i went with the wire brush and thermal wrap on a second hand set of Clevo headers i got once..
That car is now a pile of scrap probably already part of a spankin' new rice mobile.
...it was upside down on its 21st pass as a result of some stupidity on my part. While you would give your left one...I DID! Not really, but seriously, I quit counting after 46K US. It had a 429 SCJ stroked to 520" that made over 600 foot pounds of torque its entire useful RPM range. On the engine dyno, it wouldn't pull it under 4100 RPM! Usually, when you apply the brake a "whole lot" to an engine, it dies. This engine just would not die! It was nothing special really, just a 429 4-bolt SCJ block bored +.030" over (could have taken a lot more) and a 4.300" stroke SCAT crank (520.7 CID), flat tops with A429 alloy heads and a fairly modest .663" lift solid roller cam (Comp part: 34-710-9) at 10.30:1 compression ratio on pump gas ran a 10.27 through a C6 with a 3.89:1 rear gear at 2850# with me in it leaving from (accidentally) 2nd gear at over 127 MPH! That is pure FORD BALLS where the Chevy wannabes just ain't got it. First pass ever off of the trailer "taking it easy" and foot braking it was a 4500-RPM limited 10.34 at 123+. The 2nd pass ever ran a 1.19 60-foot still foot braking it to a 10.07 with the same 4500 RPM limit chip in the MSD and this was with a 5500 stall converter!
The car is history and I sold the engine and transmission and used the remaining chassis parts in new vehicles, which I've already completed and sold since its June 15th 2002 demise. I still have a few parts left over destined for another car someday: struts, front suspension parts, fuel cell, etc. I'm planning a radical '67 or '68 Cougar with a high compression (16.5:1), free-revving 351C with AFD 4V alloy heads and a Parker Funnelweb and a 410" stroker combination using an XE block hogged out to 4.200" (using Rodeck sleeves) and a 3.700" stroke and a whole lot of solid roller camshaft and a pair of Ron's Terminators atop of a Hogan's sheet metal intake. I want a steel door-car that runs low 7s N/A using a small block on alky with a nitromethane kicker and a 6-speed G-Force racing trans and chrome moly Chris Alston Eliminator II chassis. That's what makes me feel good when I drive by a Chevy. Let them leave on a handicap tree and run them down at 200 MPH. Too bad that I've got more mouth than money! (bummer)
Lovely Mustang. I must thank you for the advice on the painting of the extractors. Although I too was considering the thermal wrap after reading a post about fitting extractors into an XD falcon and the pipework coming close enough to the body to melt the carpet!!!
Glass bead blasting would be safe. I used a small blower heater when i painted some stock B/Blasted exhaust & intake manifolds, worked a treat. I placed the exhaust manifolds (1 at a time) in front of the heater until they got evenly nice and hot, quickly hung them up and proceded to spray them. The paint stuck like shit to a blanket, no runs. I used the same paint as davis on the exhausts(good stuff). Just be careful if using the VHT Flame proof, its like spraying colored thinners(very thin), so go easy if it's cold or the paint will run.
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