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Old 05-02-2006, 14:12   #1 (permalink)
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Should I get 3V's bare or built?

I've ordered the heads just not sure what will work out best, should I get them complete? or bare? It will be for a turbo 351 with a T94.

Brenx if you read, how much did it cost to outfit your heads?

They list the 8005A's as triple's but I thought they were double with a damper coil?

It seems the only difference from the 2700$ set to the 3000$ set is the 6000 series valves.

hmmm?
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Old 05-02-2006, 15:25   #2 (permalink)
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Re: Should I get 3V's bare or built?

Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD351V2
I've ordered the heads just not sure what will work out best, should I get them complete? or bare? It will be for a turbo 351 with a T94.

Brenx if you read, how much did it cost to outfit your heads?

They list the 8005A's as triple's but I thought they were double with a damper coil?

It seems the only difference from the 2700$ set to the 3000$ set is the 6000 series valves.

hmmm?
I'm looking at the one's with standard 2V port locations in bare as I can then transfer apart from the guides and posts for rockers to the new heads with possible most likely new valves. Considering the cost of valves especially at what the dollar is buying at the moment. My understanding as I have the 8005A's as well is that the double with dampers is what's commonly referred to as triples. I'm open to correction from other members on this comment.
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Old 05-02-2006, 15:44   #3 (permalink)
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Re: Should I get 3V's bare or built?

To setup my heads cost me around $300-$400. Heads cost well above $3000 complete at the time I bought. So I saved plenty at the time. The Isky springs are triples. The dampener is still a spring.

To work out whether the Isky's are suitable? They can handle upto 650thou lift but really a cam with 650thou lift doesn't have 650thou. You have to minus the lash adjustment. For example 22thou. So really the cam only had 628thou lift.

Valves are the expensive bit. After I had issues with valves I spent just over $500 on better valves which I've since replaced again! With better ones.

If you valves are 2.19 and 1.71? You'll come out of it pretty well. As you just cut the valves back to 2.150 and 1.650.

The Isky 8005a spring in my combo has gone from 410lbs open to 394lbs open since I've owned them. 16lbs loss is pretty good for a spring. My other springs lost a little less they went from 340 something to 334lbs open.

The complete prices are pretty good. At traded it's damn hard to even assemble them for the same cost. Do your sums and see if it works out cheaper via your sources? If it does buy bare. If not buy complete. John will supply better springs if you need them?
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Old 05-02-2006, 15:46   #4 (permalink)
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Re: Should I get 3V's bare or built?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 351ClevoCorty
I'm looking at the one's with standard 2V port locations in bare as I can then transfer apart from the guides and posts for rockers to the new heads with possible most likely new valves. Considering the cost of valves especially at what the dollar is buying at the moment. My understanding as I have the 8005A's as well is that the double with dampers is what's commonly referred to as triples. I'm open to correction from other members on this comment.
You can use factory rocker gear on the CHI's now. I spotted it a few days ago. Makes it easy for people who don't want screw in studs.

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Old 05-02-2006, 23:29   #5 (permalink)
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Re: Should I get 3V's bare or built?

thanks.
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Old 05-03-2006, 01:06   #6 (permalink)
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Re: Should I get 3V's bare or built?

When i bought my heads from John, i specified cam specs and he assembled them at the correct height. When they arrived they were as per order with the second spring in the box all ready for cam run in.
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Old 05-03-2006, 01:25   #7 (permalink)
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Re: Should I get 3V's bare or built?

Yeah I've been consulting with the turbo guru, john from CHI and phil from Surecam trying to make sure I get what I need.
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Old 05-03-2006, 02:52   #8 (permalink)
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Re: Should I get 3V's bare or built?

Quote:
Originally Posted by brenx
You can use factory rocker gear on the CHI's now. I spotted it a few days ago. Makes it easy for people who don't want screw in studs.

Thanks for that Brenx, I actually saw them on the site when I went in on Monday night and saw the factory setup. It's easier and more cost effective for me, I can have my mates father Warren Patterson ( Patterson Performance ) here in Bris Vegas turn my valves down if required and then only fork out for the cost of new guides and studs as the machining and setup won't cost me anything so I'm lucky in that way.
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Old 05-03-2006, 20:13   #9 (permalink)
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Re: Should I get 3V's bare or built?

Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD351V2
I've ordered the heads just not sure what will work out best, should I get them complete? or bare? It will be for a turbo 351 with a T94.

Brenx if you read, how much did it cost to outfit your heads?

They list the 8005A's as triple's but I thought they were double with a damper coil?

It seems the only difference from the 2700$ set to the 3000$ set is the 6000 series valves.

hmmm?
If you already "ordered the heads" I'm trying to figure out what you ordered if you didn't already order them bare or outfitted....


:davis:
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Old 05-04-2006, 00:48   #10 (permalink)
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Re: Should I get 3V's bare or built?

Quote:
Originally Posted by davis
If you already "ordered the heads" I'm trying to figure out what you ordered if you didn't already order them bare or outfitted....


:davis:


I ordered a set of 3V225's, I was told about a month until my castings would be ready, so I have 3 weeks to decide on the cam specs and then inform John how I would like the heads to be built.
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