I was (am?) having heat problems with my XD (351C) so I decided to see what could be done. With the water bubbling away, the clutch fan could still be spun freely - ok, new one of them. The radiator seems to have a leak at the top - ok, new one of them. And seeing as I'm doing that, why not go for a new pump? People rave about getting pumps with proper impellers.
The pump is only 18 months old. No, I didn't use sea water as radiator fluid. Initially I had coolant, then at some point I flushed the system and went with straight water (I guess getting lazy/cheap cost me, huh?).
OK, so the question is - what else is affected, and can I clean it up?
The bottom radiator hose has a metal wire in it so that it keeps it's shape. That was also caked in rust. The thermostat housing is badly pitted (like the >> intake on the old pump <<, but MUCH worse).
I have air-con, so how will that survive this? And then there's the gas converter. And how about the block? I doubt rust is as good a heat conductor as solid iron, so it'll just be sitting there insulating the block.
I don't suppose there's some fluid I can get to run through the system that liquifies/dissolves all this rust, which I then flush out again?
there is a product on the market that removes rust from panels , you can also use it for fuel tanks , its called POR15 metal ready , i used it on a fuel tank that was rusted inside it removed all the rust fairly quickly and it will also help prevent rust from forming again ,
i dont know how it will go in an engine but i cant see there being any problems , maybee try some in an old crappy engine and see how it goes
Whats the tap water like where you live? I'm guessing it was a GMB aluminium water pump? When my family moved to Adelaide, we had an old peugeot, had an alloy head. We'd moved from near Horsham, where we were using rain water as a coolant, to using Adelaide tap water as a coolant. Head corroded clean through in a few months...
Use coolant, or at least chuck a corrosion inhibitor in there!
I use nothing but distilled water in my performance engines, especially if they are a mix of iron and aluminum. If you use straight water, electrolysis will eat the aluminum parts up quick. Always run at least some colleant as it helps prevent the electrolysis. Distilled water should be fairly free of metals and that will slow it down too. Make sure the engine is grounded good to the frame.
i built a cleveland and spent a few hours with welsh plugs out ,with a bit of wire and scriber and compressed air cleaning the rusta and crap out ( i couldnt get everywhere though ), it was one of the best /cleanest blocks ive seen before i started so it was pretty good when i finished , i bought a new rad and one of those filters that go in the top hose , i started new engine and checked filter after id run engine in , it was chocka block of rusty bits ( the hose was sucked in when it was running due to the vacuum of the filter being blocked ), this continued till about the tenth time id checked filter and now it hardly gets none , id advise everyone to get one especially if using a new radiator ( mine was $720 )
all of those tubes would be blocked with the rusty bits for sure , $50 well spent
I was (am?) having heat problems with my XD (351C) so I decided to see what could be done. With the water bubbling away, the clutch fan could still be spun freely - ok, new one of them. The radiator seems to have a leak at the top - ok, new one of them. And seeing as I'm doing that, why not go for a new pump? People rave about getting pumps with proper impellers.
The pump is only 18 months old. No, I didn't use sea water as radiator fluid. Initially I had coolant, then at some point I flushed the system and went with straight water (I guess getting lazy/cheap cost me, huh?).
OK, so the question is - what else is affected, and can I clean it up?
The bottom radiator hose has a metal wire in it so that it keeps it's shape. That was also caked in rust. The thermostat housing is badly pitted (like the >> intake on the old pump <<, but MUCH worse).
I have air-con, so how will that survive this? And then there's the gas converter. And how about the block? I doubt rust is as good a heat conductor as solid iron, so it'll just be sitting there insulating the block.
I don't suppose there's some fluid I can get to run through the system that liquifies/dissolves all this rust, which I then flush out again?
-Steven
You sure the block wasnt full of TRUFFLES. . With a name like u username.
i built a cleveland and spent a few hours with welsh plugs out ,with a bit of wire and scriber and compressed air cleaning the rusta and crap out ( i couldnt get everywhere though ), it was one of the best /cleanest blocks ive seen before i started so it was pretty good when i finished , i bought a new rad and one of those filters that go in the top hose , i started new engine and checked filter after id run engine in , it was chocka block of rusty bits ( the hose was sucked in when it was running due to the vacuum of the filter being blocked ), this continued till about the tenth time id checked filter and now it hardly gets none , id advise everyone to get one especially if using a new radiator ( mine was $720 )
all of those tubes would be blocked with the rusty bits for sure , $50 well spent
Great advice
The best $50 you will ever spend on a new motor!
Thanks for the tips guys... anti-rust fluid it is.
Quote:
Originally Posted by crochunter
You sure the block wasnt full of TRUFFLES. . With a name like u username.
Man, at first site, there's so much crud in there, I'm sure fungus wouldn't be far off.
Quote:
Originally Posted by xdclevo
I use the $10.00 sock in the top rad hose, and it works very effective too. Just clean and refit.
A sock filter, you say? Cotton? Explorer? Sports sock? I think I'll try a cotton one :).
So what do you think will happen to the other components that I can't clean (aircon and gas converter)? Should the anti-rust stuff help ease the rust off them as time goes by (assuming I keep cleaning the filter for a while)?
I guess we'll see how things go. Thanks again,
-Steven
Well that sucks... after putting everything back together, I've got a leak at the bottom of the water pump. I don't have my tools handy now, but tomorrow I'll see if tightening the bolts helps (guess I should find out how tight then need to go), otherwise I get to pull it all apart again.
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