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Solid cam conversion

3K views 18 replies 5 participants last post by  xr8_sprint 
#1 ·
Hi Guys

I have a 351C with a big hydraulic cam.

Ideally i would like to run a solid cam.

I have a quick question... do i HAVE TO convert to stud roller rockers or will my pedestal mounted Yella Terras cope with the lift etc.

Ideally i would like to run stud mount roller rockers, and i will with the 3V's when i buy them, i just cant justify machining my 2V's to accept them when they'll get turfed in 6-12 months time.

Should i hold off a solid conversion until i have stud mounted RR's?

shaneo
 
#2 ·
Depends on lift duration etc and rpm's expected???
Stud mount is heaps more durable than pedestal anyday..
Imo using pedestal [std especially] with solid is a miss match, but r/r pedestal is o/k its just the bolt holding them is weaker...Thats where lift and spring tention comes to play...
 
#3 ·
Hold off till you have the 3V's. Bascially the machining for screw in studs will cost:

$160 for the heads to be machined down
$110 for the screw in studs
$90 for the guides
$85-$280 for pushrods
$490 Crane stud mount rollers.

In actual fact to convert the 2V's the only $ invested in the actual heads is $160 + a pair of head gaskets and a manifold gasket.

Brenden
 
#4 ·
I owuldn't bother trying to run solids with bolt on rollers... you need to be able to adjust them somewhere and if you can't adjust via the nornal stud mounted system, you don't have very many pleasant options.
Wait until you are ready to spend the $$ and do it properly
 
#7 ·
Good idea, I have 8 bent pushrods, 2 broken unbreako's, pictures of my scared bolt-on pedastool RR's. I had to learn via an engine builder mistakes yet I specified screw in studs.

Your on the right track being patient and waiting.

Brenden
 
#8 ·
Any idea what solid cam you want?

I have a friend who has an XW GT replica with an Crane F238 smallish solid in it and he practically spent $11k to make sure everything was gonna work in conjunction with the cam.
He originally thought it will cost a max of 2k when the engine builder gave him the shock of his life, by that time it was too late for he had the motor out already.

What im trying to say is, make sure you budget well for a change like this.
 
#9 ·
blueoval said:
Any idea what solid cam you want?

I have a friend who has an XW GT replica with an Crane F238 smallish solid in it and he practically spent $11k to make sure everything was gonna work in conjunction with the cam.
He originally thought it will cost a max of 2k when the engine builder gave him the shock of his life, by that time it was too late for he had the motor out already.

What im trying to say is, make sure you budget well for a change like this.
It'll also vary depending if the cars manual or auto. What did he do for $11k?

I run the next cam up. Didn't cost me over $3000 to get the auto and diff match up. I've since changed the auto and histall, as I popped the auto and changed the histall from 3500-->4500rpm.

Brenden
 
#10 ·
brenx - He redid his dizzy, heads were redone with screw-in studs, guide plates, new valves, new ignition, new carby, more head porting, freshen of bottom end, new twin 2.5" exhaust, new diff gears, and I think another h/d clutch for the manual box.

Thats from what I was told. He had the mechanic do everything including tuning.
 
#11 ·
Thats why it cost so much. He had a complete engine rebuild. Thats got nothing to do with putting in a solid cam in an already good engine. I can quote $ figures as I have above for whats needed.

You don't need a new exhaust, dizzy, carb, ignition, valves etc unless you own a stocker. My distributors never been regraphed yet dials in spot on. I've only tightened the springs a tad. XD electronic ignition setup is fine.

It really depends on what you have to start with. I am assuming XR8_sprint runs a modified 351 running a hydraulic camshaft. So he'd already have all the required components less:

Roller rockers (stud mount adjustable), screw in studs, head machinig for screw in studs, guide plates, solid camshaft, solid lifters and gaskets.

If he was starting from scratch (engine, diff, auto/manual)? Anything from $10,000-$40,000 can be spent.

I've got a mate who rebuilt a 302 --> 383 or 378 can't remember. Started as a $5500 rebuild quote, it's now $12,500, thats no auto or diff.

Best place to start is with a decent short motor and heads.

Brenden
 
#12 ·
His engine was fine, it had an already lumpy hydraulic in it to begin with. I actually asked him why he would bother and he pretty much said he wanted more power without spending too much cash.

When it came down to just putting the cam in, the mechanic went thru each piece bit by bit and recommended things to be upgraded. Not that they needed it but for everything to work well, it was necessary according to the mechanic. Hence the complete blowout in budget.
 
#14 ·
Yeah, I thought it was a bit excessive too. No way could I accept such an inflated price!

On the other hand, the motor is supposed to be able to pull a good 400-450hp and the guy has looked after him in respects to reliability. My mate hasnt ever had a problem with it. (touch wood)

I wish I could spend the time to get more mechanical knowledge and be able to do alot more stuff myself engine wise. but as you may already know, the efi 5ltrs are tempremental. I dont have the equpiment or the brains to take on jobs that professional mechanics know. Get me to do anything in regards to the housing construction but mechanical stuff, Im a little worse for wear!
 
#15 ·
just to let you know of my setup:

the engine runs:
2v closed chamber heads (being ported to approx 450hp)
1.73 yella terra RR's
double valvesprings
steel one piece single groove valves
290intake, 300 exhaust, 562 thou lift
302 Rods (i believe)
ACL Race series pistons (11:1 compression) (i beleive)
750 double pumper
Wieand Xcellerator
Toploader, 9", 3.5's
bored 30" (done approx 10,000kms since complete rebuild)
 
#17 ·
currently she's sitting on an engine stand in my carport haha.....

I bought the car off Chook in june(ish).. it's a XD NSW hwy persuit car with XE Ghia front end and taillights. (Credit to it's previous owner)

http://www.angelfire.com/falcon/xd351/images/xds6.jpg

Basically the carby, bottom end and driveline remains unchanged, and thats it hehe.

It's getting resprayed (after a minor incident involving a f*ckwit camry driver) and i'm doing little things here and there on it (lowered big time, more HP, interior, getting those B45's polished etc...)

I've got a ETA of March... i can't wait (time to sell the sprint haha)

shaneo
 
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