302_supra

Hi guys

I have some parts lying around my house nobody wants to buy (worked heads, double springs etc) and im looking at putting it all into a 351 clevo and then dropping it into my 1976 toyota crown as my tow car.

can anyone tell me anything i will need to upgrade to get about 350rwhp?

new pistons and bearings/ rings are a given. and id probly bore it - 30 tho?

will the rods and crank hold this power? 4MAB is the crank i need right?

thanks for your help as im not really up to speed on clevos...

Blake

brenx

Prepped ford rods will hold that power. So will any 351 crank.

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XB Fairmont (street car) 11.07@123.02mph.

302_supra

by prepped you mean shotpeened?

brenx

yup

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XB Fairmont (street car) 11.07@123.02mph.

xdclevo

I wouldn't bother shotpeening them. For that power level standard will be fine. Mine hasn't allways had 300 plus rwhp, but my bottomend is stock std except for ARP rodbolts and a balance, and the whole assembly has been through 3 different motors all spinning to 7000rpm many many hundreds of times. Only balanced it once back in 1999 too, and re-ringed/bearings with upgrades along the way(one new block too last year). Even low oilpressure for the last year..
Stock and can't be killed

TruBlu351

Good mains stud kit too (ARP or Milodon).

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XE Falcon
393 Tremec TKO 9"

302_supra

thanks mate, at least i know i wont be blowing anything up! Do you think this would be suitable for towing? I also want to drag it...a 1230kg crown with a 500bhp 351 might be quite interesting :)

GammaBoy

Jesus... with the way those toyota Crowns flex, you wouldn't be able to open/close the doors after the first couple of hard launches!

davis

I can tell you what I mean by prepped.

Polish the beams, shot peen and repolish. Fit for ARP/Milodon rod bolts, resize both ends, bush for floating pins and balance them to within one gram...and then toss them in the rubbish bin because you just spent as much time/effort and money as a new set of 5140 chrome moly I-beams or, in some cases, even a new set of 4340 H-beams.

Seriously, the "best practices" for reworking factory Cleveland rods no longer applies unless you happen to own a bunch of equipment and your time is worth pennies. As stated previously, you don't really need to do more than to fit them with good bolts and resize them for most "non-racing" applications. The reason I say "non-racing" is because anyone who is serious about racing isn't going to rely on a set of cast rods when a good set of lightweight, forged rods can be purchased for about the same cost as reworking factory rods:

ebay link to 5140 rods

Note that they "rate" these to 550 HP. I'd think that that is a fairly accurate estimate given high quality balancing and assembly standards and when combined with appropriate remaining parts.

I don't think that I would seriously recommend using factory, even fully reworked, rods to anyone contemplating a 500 HP engine. However, in a lightweight car, with an automatic, who knows, they could very well last forever. The "who knows" part is the one that brusts my bubble.


:davis:

xr8 5.0

for starters the std clev. rods are not cast they are factory forged rods and with no beem prep and shot peening just arp rod bolts and resizing i have used std rods in my 2v clevland, i raced it for 4 years n/a and 1 year with n2o, n/a it ran 11.2 sec 120mph in an xd falcon and with nos 10.2 132mph. I have seen a few clev rods fail and every one I have seen from other racers had been beem preped. I think over polishing them removes to much raw material and weakens the rod