Originally Posted by 302_supra
by prepped you mean shotpeened?
I can tell you what I mean by prepped.
Polish the beams, shot peen and repolish. Fit for ARP/Milodon rod bolts, resize both ends, bush for floating pins and balance them to within one gram...and then toss them in the rubbish bin because you just spent as much time/effort and money as a new set of 5140 chrome moly I-beams or, in some cases, even a new set of 4340 H-beams.
Seriously, the "best practices" for reworking factory Cleveland rods no longer applies unless you happen to own a bunch of equipment and your time is worth pennies. As stated previously, you don't really need to do more than to fit them with good bolts and resize them for most "non-racing" applications. The reason I say "non-racing" is because anyone who is serious about racing isn't going to rely on a set of cast rods when a good set of lightweight, forged rods can be purchased for about the same cost as reworking factory rods:
ebay link to 5140 rods
Note that they "rate" these to 550 HP. I'd think that that is a fairly accurate estimate given high quality balancing and assembly standards and when combined with appropriate remaining parts.
I don't think that I would seriously recommend using factory, even fully reworked, rods to anyone contemplating a 500 HP engine. However, in a lightweight car, with an automatic, who knows, they could very well last forever. The "who knows" part is the one that brusts my bubble.