Just a quick question, Is my timing too advanced when i cant slow down the idle anymore on my carby? Is that bad :wnc: ? It doesnt seem to detonate or ping, but its seeming to idle a bit high.
Any suggestions helpful, or if ive even got my advancations and retardations mixed up, if that makes any sense?
There could be a few reasons why it won't idle down. First check to see if you don't have any leaks around carby base where it meets the manifold. spray some carby cleaner around the base help, if the engine speed fluctuates, it's leaking. Also, check if running a holley carb, see if the carby is tight but rocking side to side. the internal screws that hold the carby butterfly plate on work loose causing them to leak air. You will usually hear a high pitch noise near the carby. Timing could be a factor if advanced but if too far, you'd expect it to run warmer than normal and could be difficult toturn over. Hope this helps.
Is your throttle return spring still giving some good tension in the closed position?Sometimes the whole set up can get stiff (spray some WD40 on the springs and pivot points and give it a good workout - you may temporarily flood your engine). Check that the fast idle screw is fully out and NOT touching the throttle lever. Can you manually close the throttle plates more buy putting some tension on the lever yourself (ie: normal spring pressure low)?
You should be able to stall the engine by winding out the fast idle screw (totally closing the throttle plates). Advancing the timing will make it idle faster, but you don't set the timing for a good idle. Set the timing where you want it (for normal driving) and then tune the carby to idle nice.
If its a vac holley, you may have the secondries too far open. You may have to remove the carby, and adjust the hidden little screw to close the butterflies a bit.
ok, played with the timing this weekend, retarded it so you could have use of the idle screw, and its seeming the performance is getting better. Is it possibly to have it too far advanced so the secondary's dont see enough vacuum to open, cause they are not opening properly to my knowledge. When they were working there was a huge induction sound when they did, and its not there anymore. Ive put a carby kit through the carby and replaced the secondary's diaphragm but to no avail.
xdclevo: hey dion, which screw is this? im going to take the carby off today and have a look at it for some loose screws cause its seeming to leak fuel from underneath the accelerator pump arm. any help??
Any other suggestions?
Is it a holley?
If it is, you can sometimes see the end of the screw(not the head of it).
The head where the screwdriver goes is on the underside and you can't see that part.
Have a look and see if the secondry butterflies seem to be more open than the primaries. Look where they seat in the bores. I would shut the secondaries right off, than open slightly them, as you never have them closed completly.
ok, played with the timing this weekend, retarded it so you could have use of the idle screw, and its seeming the performance is getting better. Is it possibly to have it too far advanced so the secondary's dont see enough vacuum to open, cause they are not opening properly to my knowledge. When they were working there was a huge induction sound when they did, and its not there anymore. Ive put a carby kit through the carby and replaced the secondary's diaphragm but to no avail.
xdclevo: hey dion, which screw is this? im going to take the carby off today and have a look at it for some loose screws cause its seeming to leak fuel from underneath the accelerator pump arm. any help??
Any other suggestions?
You won't get the VS secondaries to open when free revving it stationary (no load). There's still plenty of vacuum there.
Are you talking about the noise when playing under the bonnet or driving?
Give the car a bootload when driving. You should know straight away whether or not the sec's are opening up.
The leaking fuel (on your accel pump arm) could be coming from:
1. Leaky accel pump gaskit
2. Split accel pump diaphragm
3. Check your fuel bowl screws are tight
4. Metering block gaskit(s)
The accel pumps are easy to take off (4 small screws).
yeh its an odd ball holley. Its like a 465cfg i think, 4bbl, vac secs on a 302. Im pretty sure that the secondaries are slightly open, i think, but will report later when i have taken the carby off and cleaned it up a bit. Anyone got reccomendations for float level measurements etc???..
My dad says that the secondaries will still open when free revving it, he is convinced about it, how do i explain to him it doesnt happen when the car isnt on load?
You won't get the VS secondaries to open when free revving it stationary (no load). There's still plenty of vacuum there.
Are you talking about the noise when playing under the bonnet or driving?
Give the car a bootload when driving. You should know straight away whether or not the sec's are opening up.
The leaking fuel (on your accel pump arm) could be coming from:
1. Leaky accel pump gaskit
2. Split accel pump diaphragm
3. Check your fuel bowl screws are tight
4. Metering block gaskit(s)
The accel pumps are easy to take off (4 small screws).
Do you feel a drop in performance too, compared to previous?
If you hook up a vacuum gauge to your car when free revving, you'll see that the vacuum reading doesn't drop to zero when compared to fully loaded acceleration.
They'll probably open a bit, but not fully. There was a thread on this topic a few months back.
yeh, it doesnt seem as pokey as it used to be. Retarded the timing a few degrees and it seems a deeper exhaust note and alot smother to rev? I think it could even be retarded more. What are some of the symptons when its advanced too far?
yeh, it doesnt seem as pokey as it used to be. Retarded the timing a few degrees and it seems a deeper exhaust note and alot smother to rev? I think it could even be retarded more. What are some of the symptons when its advanced too far?
Retarding your timing decreases your throttle response. You lose that snappy feeling when you give it some. You'll also decrease your power output, you may notice it taking longer to get to max rpm.
You want to advance your timing just until the point of pinging, then knock it back a few degrees. More timing is good, pinging bad.
Then, back to your first Q, just wind back the fast idle screw to keep your revs @ idle about 800rpm.
You've got it!!! Clockwise is advance, anti-clockwide is retard.
Set your timing FIRST, then get the rest right.
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