dsteele485

Okay, I feel pretty dumb, do I need to remove the oil pan to take the timing cover off a 351C. I've got everything removed but the timing cover won't come off. I've checked and there aren't any bolts holding it to the oil pan.

xb351coupe

No you don't have to take the sump completey off. Lossen the sump bolts until the sump comes away from the block. you need about 3-5mm then the timing cover will come off without any problem.

pinkbits

you dont have to loosen sump , but it will be hard b ut not impossibleto put back on ,
you cut ends off front gasket / seal and use sealer / master gasket in its place on ends and on all of seal

its hard to get off sometimes , make sure again all bolts are out and give it a few hits with a bit of wood - be careful if your going to pry it off so you dont distort / damage it

xdclevo

The big problem is getting the cover back on with the rubbers installed. Do a dummy install and you will see it is just the inside edge corners of the steel plate that make it near impossible to install it. Possible by grinding just the sharp corners on the cover (inside corners only) that go inbetween the very small gap between block and sump. Have been told this helps a lot, but doesnt leak, as the end rubber does all the sealing of oil. Be carefull on the cork ends of the sump gasket.

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408 Cube Cleveland.

TruBlu351

Don't worry about loosening the sump bolts. Way too much hard work. You should be able to pull the old rubber seal out OK (between the sump and cover plate).

Installation: don't use the rubber seal in the gaskit kit. Just CLEAN the area VERY WELL with a good engine parts cleaner, not degreaser (don't squirt it into the sump). Spray a clean cloth and then use that. CLEAN means awesome sealant bonding.

Then use a big fat bead of the high temp engine gaskit sealer (it's a red colour) on the top of the sump and into the cracks where it meets the block and also fill the channel on the timing cover where the rubber seal normally sits. Let it go slightly tacky before slapping it together to avoid it dripping into the sump.

The key is then to leave it about 24hrs to set before starting engine (trim off any excess). Lots of engine builders do it this way and I'm a convert.

Replace the crank seal too. Inspect the face of the timing plate where the water pump sits.......looking for rusty pits (the holes can be microscopic and not visible). I've had hot water steam into the block under pressure.........not good for the oil

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393 Tremec TKO 9"