xr8_sprint

i'm trying to find out info on the crank that came out of my XD 351 (which also came out of a black XE block) which is marked ARD1AE (which i believe indicates that it's Australian) and 6303-B.

is it a standard Australian 351 clevo crank? What's it's strength like?

thanks!

shane

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1981 XD Ex-Interceptor - 393C, AFD 4Vs, Methanol Injection, Powerglide

1994 ED XR8 Sprint - 347W, 5-speed, 3.9s


http://hi-performance.net

russxr67

The aussie crank has "351" clearly stamped on it as opposed to the 4ma crank. With the proper preparation i can,t see a problem in using this crank. Legend has it that they are not as tough as a 4ma but honestly how often do you hear of a crank failure in a clevo.

Trav 351

I heard people talk about these but i have no idea.
What are the 4ma/b cranks?

xr8_sprint

yup she's got 351 clearly stamped on it.

i'm just concerned my whole motor is forged and that and the only weakness is that i'm using a standard crank.

a crank failure at near on 8000 rpm could prove expensive

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1981 XD Ex-Interceptor - 393C, AFD 4Vs, Methanol Injection, Powerglide

1994 ED XR8 Sprint - 347W, 5-speed, 3.9s


http://hi-performance.net

Work Horse

I'm with russxr67 you don't often hear of Clevelands breaking cranks!
Mind you xr8_sprint turning a Cleveland to 8000rpm may be stretching the friendship!
As I understand it all cranks are made of the same material and are potentially the same strength.
A 4ma/b crank is a 4ma crank the has been "brindle" (spelling?) tested, ie a metallurgy test for hardeness.
The Australian 351 crank is the same as a 4ma as I understand it.
A well prepped crank and bottem end with the bits you have in your signature, should see 8000rpm occasionally.
For real peice of mind may be you need an after market crank?

xr8_sprint

thanks mate.....

yes i was always thinking about going the Eagle forged crank.... but i'd rather make 50hp less (safely) than spend the $1000 on a standard stroke crank.

i hope to one day (in a coupla years) go for a 393/408 stroker... that will make me go for a aftermarket crank....

thanks!

__________________


1981 XD Ex-Interceptor - 393C, AFD 4Vs, Methanol Injection, Powerglide

1994 ED XR8 Sprint - 347W, 5-speed, 3.9s


http://hi-performance.net

russxr67

I have been noticing the price of aftermarket steel cranks(4340) have dropped significantly lately.From memory either A1 or Performance unlimited had a standard stroke 4340 eagle crank for sale for under 800 bills. If the standard piece makes you nervous then consider this option.Sell you aussie crank.You should pick up 300 bucks for this alone i reckon.I sold a set of 351Aussie crank and rods in the quokka a couple of weeks ago for 350.Crank was 10/10.Assuming the crank needs grinding ,nitriding etc to make it live at high rpm then it will probably cost a bunch of money anyhow,and the sale of your crank will defer the cost.If you work it correctly i,d say you may have to come up with a couple of hundred bucks.From memory it may have been A1.give them a call.cheers, russ.

V8_GRUNT

as alot of people said how often do u hear of them snapping.......i myself am looking for an Aussie Crank, they are supposed to be good. The weaker cranks are the ones that have a drilled hole through the centre of the crank at both ends (to reduce weight) the black block aussie cranks are supposed to have solid ends (no meat taken out of the ends), and that is what i want for my performance engine which will be revving over 7000 rpm. If you don't want the crank i will buy it!! :)

clevokid

There was a small number of Crank failures in the XD black blocks, had three in family/friends here at the time they were new. Two were completely cactus and one luckily broke in the mains so was salvagable. Any that are still going now shouldnt be a problem but probably a good idea at the rpm your talkin about to get it checked anyway.

davis

As usual, Russ is right again. By the time you prep your stocker crank, you are nearly into it as much as a new forged part. I recently tried to save a few bucks on a hotted up engine that would see mostly street duty with some trips to the track. This is what it cost (US) to recondition the crankshaft:


$ 65 used std/std 4MA crank (including shipping to me)
$125 straighten and grind -.010/-.010
$ 40 chamfer oil holes and micropolish journals
$155 nitride treament
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$385 US

Plus the time and gas for hauling it around and picking it up at the crank shop 60mi away from me!

A new Eagle crank is $499 plus shipping and I could have gotten it in any stroke from 3.50, 3.75, 3.85 and 4.00 for the same price. How much better is it to have a stocker now?

Since I had to buy pistons and rods for this engine, I would have been power ahead to buy a stroker crank for the extra $100 and saved my time and effort in getting the used crank reconditioned.

I would never even had considered a stock crank for a serious performance engine, especially one that needs to go to 8,000 RPM. These need to be internally balanced for that kind of revving. Also, you need proper oiling system mods or an oil pan the size of Saudi Arabia.

I also reconditioned a set of used D0AE rods for about $225 US. This represents about $250-300 less than a set of H-beams, but also a much less strong part.

:davis: