i had it serviced and dyno' tuned.. has 212 rwhp
and did a 14.212 q/mile with a very poor .792 reaction time, and to chance to stall it up (first time :))
now the problem is,
i accidently ran the petrol tank dry, got petrol back into it but ever since then i have very frustrating problems with starting and occasional idle problems..... before this the car started the instant i turned the key...... now ever since the petrol prob i have to turn it over for a few seconds while pretty much flooring the accelerator (as if everytime im trying to start it struggles to petrol in the carb, yet i can see it squirting straight away) .... and then it will occasionally idle very rough and low (stalling if i dont ride the brake and gas at the same time) my guess was dirt sucked through from the dregs in the petrol tank.... its just a real pain!!! any ideas of something to try?
i can't make any suggestions for cleaning out the carb as i don't know a great deal about them.
but i'd say if there is crud in the fuel system then you'd have needle and seat problems with the carby. try flushing the fuel system, as in pump out a fair bit of the fuel into a container and look for contaminants, do this without the filter on so you can work out if its still coming from the tank or if it was just a little bit of crap. and obviously replace your filter
Your only sure fix is to take off the front bowl and metering block and blow through all orifices in the metering block with compressed air. Give the bowl a wipe out too.
You might need to do the secondary metering plate as well.
wow you guys are quick with your replys cheers....
ive never reall touched the carb on any of my cars, so if i take of the front bowl and m/block as mentioned am i gonna end up having to re-tune the carb?? is there anything ill have to watch out for, or is it simply un-screw a few things, give it a blow, and then screw back on again?? sorry for sounding like i know bugger all!! i promise im not completly useless :) hehehehe
You will need a fuel bowl gasket, and a metering block gasket if you remove the metering block as well. You might be able to blow the metering block clean without removing it from the carby.
The only difficulty will be scraping off the old gasket material, use a plastic scraper and/or solvent to soak it off.
Good idea to take out the needle and seat and blow that through too, and providing you put it back in the exact same position, you won't need to re-adjust the float assembly or anything else in the carby.
The other thing is I just noticed you're in Perth, if you want to take it somewhere to get looked at my Uncle owns Perth Carburettor Specialists, so PM me and I'll give you my details so you can get a good referral.
It really is pull apart, clean properly and go go go. If your carb is in bad condition it might need a new gasket kit, but if you just got this from a fuel problem, you should just need a clean. Clean the needle and seats in the top of each bowl, and set to the correct height again. I would also clean the metering block on the primaries. I use a can of wd40 and the little straw in the nozzel of tin. I take the metering block (the alloy thick block next to the front fuel bowl) completely off the carby, and put the plastic straw to all of the holes in the metering block and blow them clean. Also while apart, clean out the air bleeds. These are the four little holes in the front part of the choke tower. Clean these while the metering block is off. Then flush your fuel line and change filter so you dont recontaminate the carby with crap.
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10.70 @ 125.00 on the black fun top
408 Cube Cleveland.
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