Okay guys I need some help on Block Identification. Found some casting Numbers behind the starter. Were as Follows:
Also Found a tag around the edge with some Fake Looking screw heads in it showing the following: 6A24.
Best I can tell This is an engine from A 1986 Thunderbird. And 6A24 is the casting date right? Jan. 24, 1986?
1. I want to go back to a flat tappet Hydraulic cam and lifters. Is this okay?
2. Bolting to a C4 in a 1975 bronco?
3. Can I make this an H.O. Motor? What does it take(Heads, Intake, etc.)? What is the difference that makes a motor an H.O.?
4. Must I run the 50oz. Balance setup? Or do I have no choice using a 2M or 2MA Crank?
5. What Intakes (Ford) and Heads do you recommend?
6. Going back carbuerated
1) Don't go flat tappet. It's a roller block and should stay that way- you'll get much better efficiency using a roller cam. Why would you want to go flat tappet? It's like taking ten steps backwards.
2) Will bolt directly to a C4, but you need the small C4 bellhousing. It is my understanding that an AOD flywheel will work fine in a C4.
3) To make it an HO motor, use an HO cam and be sure to wire the spark plugs in HO firing order. You'll REALLY want the heads from a 1987+ Mustang, Lincoln Mark VII, or Ford Explorer. I'd really recommend the 1996-1997.5 GT40 heads. They're not very costly and work very efficiently. Avoid the 1997.5+ Explorer/Mountaineer heads because you need a particular header to work on those heads and it would most likely cause clearance issues with your framerails.
4) If you swap the crank, be sure you use the same external balancing as the crank was designed with. If you use the stock crank (don't see why you wouldn't), keep the 50oz external balance. The higher weights on the outside allows for better balancing internally, which means less wear.
5) Already recommended heads. For intake, I'd say your best bet will be Edelbrock Performer (or even RPM) or Weiand Stealth. Both are great intakes and will provide good performance without destroying your wallet.
6) Get an Edelbrock carburetor. No questions asked. I'd personally go through the wiring stuff to run EFI, but if you're set on carbs, go Edelbrock. Nothing else handles quite the same for the price.
The Flat tappet cam was more of a $$$ thing than anything else. I could go with a roller I guess. What is the HO firing order? The cam card I have shows a firing order but I don't think it is the same. What is the difference in the heads? I have some from an '83 mustang as well as the Ford aluminum intake to go with it. Would they work? I don't know the benefit to the head swap cause I don't know the difference in them. Is it about the flow? Thanks for the info you cleared up most all of the issues.
Also the C4 is currently bolted to a 1968 ford mustang engine. It runs pretty well but uses about as much oil as it does gas. Also some one has already been into it. Don't know what the bore is on it or what it needs cause its not tore down yet. I just want decent low end torque for those big 35" mudders and enough sound to piss off the neighbors when I crank it. He, He.
The 1983 Mustang heads and intake would WORK, but they suck, to say the least. If you're wheeling with this thing, I'd highly recommend you find the 1996-1997.5 GT40 heads from an Explorer or Mercury Mountaineer.
Check out www.car-part.com and there's a 1996 Explorer GT40 engine at a junkyard for $650... should be within 60 miles of you (in Norcross). You could buy the whole engine and sell the intakes for $200-300. Sell the injectors for $50-100. Throttle body for $50. Anything else you take off you could also sell on eBay. Right there, you'd have a whole roller motor for $350 at the most. Swap in a truck/RV cam and you'd have torque for days. I wouldn't even swap the head gaskets if everything looks good.
If the C4 is behind a 289 in that Mustang, it'll bolt right up with no issues.
Hope this helps. A GT40 motor is the way to go, in my opinion. Just be sure to swap the cam and you'll have no problem on 35s (or 42s if you ever get that off the wall with it).
Do all 1996 ford explorers with the 302 have GT 40 heads? Make no mistake, there will be no wheeling in this thing. It is a restoration for asphalt only. (Sunday Driver) I have told my son this as well. Explained to him that he would really hate to be the one I catch with it off road. I even made it clear to my wife. LOL. Everyone says I am nuts for taking something lifted with 35" mudders on it and confining it to the road on weekends mostly. I figure its mine, I am doing the work and I can do what I want with it when I get done. Ha. Its mostly going to be UGA Bulldog mobile for staurdays in the fall when I go tailgate. That big "G" in the window with the black paint is going to look good I hope.
Your heads should be E6TE. If they are E7TE, roll with them, but if they're E6TE, don't waste your time. Another drawback COULD be the pistons. If you're intent on keeping the 1986 motor and you plan to run an aftermarket cam, newer heads, or both, you'll need pistons with valve reliefs. If you plan to have someone rebuild the motor, have them install new pistons while they're in it. It wouldn't be that much more cost for the reliability of not putting your valves into your pistons (that's bad).
All 1996-1997.5 V8 Explorers (and Mercury Mountaineers) had GT40 heads. If you look on the cylinder head (on the exhaust side), you'll see "GT" on the bottom right corner near the head bolt. If it's a GT40P, it'll show "GTP". I took pictures of mine, but they didn't turn out any good, so it'd be a waste of time.
Yes- I'm sorry. E6AE. The E7TE is the "lowest" casting you should spend money to use. The E6s really aren't going to give you the oomph you'll be wanting. They hardly feel like a V8 even after porting and polishing.
The E7s and GT40s have such better bowl designs, flow patterns, etc. Also, they're so cheap there's really no point attempting to use the older castings.
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