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Old 11-09-2012, 15:54   #1 (permalink)
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Thumbs up 351W Rebuild Questions with Video!

Hey guys so i've posted a video (kinda bad quality and long black screen at the end!) here it is ------> Ford 351W Rebuild Help - YouTube
that addresses what i'm talking about in this post.
I have just received a rebuilt 351 Windsor from Titan Engines located in Florida. I think shipping to the eastern end of long island here was $250-300 from Florida, if anyone needs that info. My goal is to not have to go back "inside" this engine for at least 15 years or so. All my trauma is documented in my 2 or 3 previous threads i made, check them out if you want to see some desperation. I am glad to say that through this i have identified why i was unable to break 55 mph for long periods of time on tour, my lack of power style - a problem that would kick in or out seemingly at random. Still made for a 29 hour trip from Denver to LA (up north around the rockies, down through salt lake, vegas, etc.) I will address this later in this post.

So, I'm fitting a bunch of the old parts onto the new long block, and I am about to put the Intake Mani on with a valley pan that has the crush-type metal gaskets attached. I have some High Temp Black Permatex, I was going to use it around the water ports, not the fuel ports because i have learned that the Black Permatex will break down and it will completely screw me up. My instructions say not to use any sealers over the gasket material, but i want to know what you guys think...I am certainly going to use RTV as end sealers rather than the ones they provide. If I were to use sealer on the gasket to make this thing last (if it works that way) would anyone recommend the aviation grade stuff? i'll do it if it buys me years.

In the video i have a little device that I can't find (nor can Carquest) that fits to the top of the intake mani, to the left of the carb...what is this? can i block it off? that component is janky!

After the Intake, do you guys have a good Order of Operations, or should I just dress it as I will? (oil pan, valve covers, etc)

I'd really like to lose my AIR pump and the AIR system at that, something addressed in the video.

I wanted some input on possibly losing the Cat Converter too, throw a straight pipe on there. This is to have even less "clogging" to worry about -- as stated in other threads, this thing needs to tour, if I miss shows I don't make money, and then I have no money to get to the next show, quite a vicious cycle!

So next order of business was the little hell maker, my heat riser valve. This thing mounts between the exhaust mani and the y-pipe. as you can see in the vid, the valve in the riser was not even connected to the little axel that allows it to open and close, hence, i'm led to believe that the thing was stuck closed, pumping exhaust back into my engine and kinda suffocating it, causing my lack of power and speed. I paid a bus mechanic to look into it (stating "could it be the heat riser valve?") and it he didn't do anything, and then asked for $300 for a couple hours of work to look around and no fix. talked him down. Disgust me. And I'M forced to learn it haha well so be. Remember: knowledge is power. Glad to know i was generally right, i just didn't have the real know-how to be convicted in the diagnostic.

I Digress.

So what do you guys think? glad to have any input from you guys, i really appreciate the wealth of knowledge in this forum.
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Old 11-09-2012, 16:16   #2 (permalink)
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Re: 351W Rebuild Questions with Video!

Looks like an old school EGR valve: http://www.rockauto.com/getimage/get...44_PRIMARY.jpg

Gasket sealant: when used, apply very lightly, never around sensors unless specified. Rubber gaskets, no sealant except at seams/corners. Water/coolant gaskets Permatex blue. Head gaskets: Ultra copper.

When applying sealant, you're not trying to seal it with the sealant, that's what the gasket is for. All you're trying to do is fill in imperfections. Sealant is softer than gaskets and will not last as long.
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Old 11-14-2012, 17:47   #3 (permalink)
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Re: 351W Rebuild Questions with Video!

I don't think it's the EGR as I have that covered...

As for Intake Mani, how the flock do I get my crush-style Valley Pan Gasket to sit right???
I have found no good information on this.
i put guide studs in.
RTV instead of end seals is the way i will go, would this go on top of the valley pan? or under?

i've gotten most my info from here...
from about 5:45 on is where i'm at...

all i have is Ultra Black RTV, which i was gonna use for the ends. do i need something different for the actual gasket part of the valley pan?

the instructions are awful. it says put a thin amount of sealer on each side of the pan gasket around the ports...do i let that set? won't it smear when i try to situate it with the intake manifold?????

I'm being driven crazy by this ****ing vehicle.
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Old 11-14-2012, 17:53   #4 (permalink)
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Re: 351W Rebuild Questions with Video!

if anyone could make a numbered, step by step list for me it would be AMAZING! Thanks so much for listening to me. I just can't ruin this project for something stupid!
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Old 11-14-2012, 18:24   #5 (permalink)
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Re: 351W Rebuild Questions with Video!

I hate to tell you this, but even for someone who's done a few rebuilds, having a manual that outline what to do, when to do it, and to what torque is highly recommended. Chilton and Haynes both have them and they're a worthy reference. As far as tech tips, I can help you all day long. The issues with your exhaust, probably best to either going with an aftermarket or having one custom bent. They can go from the exhaust manifold on back and everything should fit like factory.

As far as the pan, did it come with the block?
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Old 11-15-2012, 08:26   #6 (permalink)
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Re: 351W Rebuild Questions with Video!

Thanks for getting back Cat!
I have my haynes manual for rebuilding my engine, as well as my manual for my specific vehicle. Lots of info but i think they overlooked the valley pan?
i could be wrong and i'll check now.

i'm just so nervous of messing this part up. when i do it, i'll be sure to film it and put it up here, we will have the ONLY 351 VALLEY PAN INSTALL VID ON THE NET! hahaha
and it will either be "how to" or "how not to" and if it's the latter i'll flog myself.
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Old 11-15-2012, 08:41   #7 (permalink)
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Re: 351W Rebuild Questions with Video!

yeah, nothing about valley pans in either of those haynes manuals and nobody seems to have solid information on getting it situated well.
the quest continues....
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Old 11-15-2012, 09:19   #8 (permalink)
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Re: 351W Rebuild Questions with Video!

Perhaps this will yield results with regards to valley pan info:

1. When using RTV instead of the End Gaskets, do i put the bead on the block, let it set up, then put the valley pan, then put the intake mani, then torque, and retorque as necessary? IS THIS THE CORRECT PROCEDURE?

Thanks,
james
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Old 11-15-2012, 10:08   #9 (permalink)
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Re: 351W Rebuild Questions with Video!

Ok, so i think i'm gonna say forget the RTV on the end and use the rubber, because i want to move on that badly. i'll wait until tonight to do it though just in case anyone has input.
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Old 11-15-2012, 19:03   #10 (permalink)
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Re: 351W Rebuild Questions with Video!

Dorry, just got on, It's been a while since I took the top end of off a FordV8, but I don't remember much of an issue getting it to line up. Got a decent picture to refresh my memory?
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