Hey guys so i've posted a video (kinda bad quality and long black screen at the end!) here it is ------> Ford 351W Rebuild Help - YouTube
that addresses what i'm talking about in this post.
I have just received a rebuilt 351 Windsor from Titan Engines located in Florida. I think shipping to the eastern end of long island here was $250-300 from Florida, if anyone needs that info. My goal is to not have to go back "inside" this engine for at least 15 years or so. All my trauma is documented in my 2 or 3 previous threads i made, check them out if you want to see some desperation. I am glad to say that through this i have identified why i was unable to break 55 mph for long periods of time on tour, my lack of power style - a problem that would kick in or out seemingly at random. Still made for a 29 hour trip from Denver to LA (up north around the rockies, down through salt lake, vegas, etc.) I will address this later in this post.
So, I'm fitting a bunch of the old parts onto the new long block, and I am about to put the Intake Mani on with a valley pan that has the crush-type metal gaskets attached. I have some High Temp Black Permatex, I was going to use it around the water ports, not the fuel ports because i have learned that the Black Permatex will break down and it will completely screw me up. My instructions say not to use any sealers over the gasket material, but i want to know what you guys think...I am certainly going to use RTV as end sealers rather than the ones they provide. If I were to use sealer on the gasket to make this thing last (if it works that way) would anyone recommend the aviation grade stuff? i'll do it if it buys me years.
In the video i have a little device that I can't find (nor can Carquest) that fits to the top of the intake mani, to the left of the carb...what is this? can i block it off? that component is janky!
After the Intake, do you guys have a good Order of Operations, or should I just dress it as I will? (oil pan, valve covers, etc)
I'd really like to lose my AIR pump and the AIR system at that, something addressed in the video.
I wanted some input on possibly losing the Cat Converter too, throw a straight pipe on there. This is to have even less "clogging" to worry about -- as stated in other threads, this thing needs to tour, if I miss shows I don't make money, and then I have no money to get to the next show, quite a vicious cycle!
So next order of business was the little hell maker, my heat riser valve. This thing mounts between the exhaust mani and the y-pipe. as you can see in the vid, the valve in the riser was not even connected to the little axel that allows it to open and close, hence, i'm led to believe that the thing was stuck closed, pumping exhaust back into my engine and kinda suffocating it, causing my lack of power and speed. I paid a bus mechanic to look into it (stating "could it be the heat riser valve?") and it he didn't do anything, and then asked for $300 for a couple hours of work to look around and no fix. talked him down. Disgust me. And I'M forced to learn it haha well so be. Remember: knowledge is power. Glad to know i was generally right, i just didn't have the real know-how to be convicted in the diagnostic.
I Digress.
So what do you guys think? glad to have any input from you guys, i really appreciate the wealth of knowledge in this forum.
that addresses what i'm talking about in this post.
I have just received a rebuilt 351 Windsor from Titan Engines located in Florida. I think shipping to the eastern end of long island here was $250-300 from Florida, if anyone needs that info. My goal is to not have to go back "inside" this engine for at least 15 years or so. All my trauma is documented in my 2 or 3 previous threads i made, check them out if you want to see some desperation. I am glad to say that through this i have identified why i was unable to break 55 mph for long periods of time on tour, my lack of power style - a problem that would kick in or out seemingly at random. Still made for a 29 hour trip from Denver to LA (up north around the rockies, down through salt lake, vegas, etc.) I will address this later in this post.
So, I'm fitting a bunch of the old parts onto the new long block, and I am about to put the Intake Mani on with a valley pan that has the crush-type metal gaskets attached. I have some High Temp Black Permatex, I was going to use it around the water ports, not the fuel ports because i have learned that the Black Permatex will break down and it will completely screw me up. My instructions say not to use any sealers over the gasket material, but i want to know what you guys think...I am certainly going to use RTV as end sealers rather than the ones they provide. If I were to use sealer on the gasket to make this thing last (if it works that way) would anyone recommend the aviation grade stuff? i'll do it if it buys me years.
In the video i have a little device that I can't find (nor can Carquest) that fits to the top of the intake mani, to the left of the carb...what is this? can i block it off? that component is janky!
After the Intake, do you guys have a good Order of Operations, or should I just dress it as I will? (oil pan, valve covers, etc)
I'd really like to lose my AIR pump and the AIR system at that, something addressed in the video.
I wanted some input on possibly losing the Cat Converter too, throw a straight pipe on there. This is to have even less "clogging" to worry about -- as stated in other threads, this thing needs to tour, if I miss shows I don't make money, and then I have no money to get to the next show, quite a vicious cycle!
So next order of business was the little hell maker, my heat riser valve. This thing mounts between the exhaust mani and the y-pipe. as you can see in the vid, the valve in the riser was not even connected to the little axel that allows it to open and close, hence, i'm led to believe that the thing was stuck closed, pumping exhaust back into my engine and kinda suffocating it, causing my lack of power and speed. I paid a bus mechanic to look into it (stating "could it be the heat riser valve?") and it he didn't do anything, and then asked for $300 for a couple hours of work to look around and no fix. talked him down. Disgust me. And I'M forced to learn it haha well so be. Remember: knowledge is power. Glad to know i was generally right, i just didn't have the real know-how to be convicted in the diagnostic.
I Digress.
So what do you guys think? glad to have any input from you guys, i really appreciate the wealth of knowledge in this forum.